mondosapore

Lost sheep update
Data:2008-09-18 11:17:57
Description:In an Autogrill, one of the good ones that stretches over the autostrada. I'm content. I'm reunited with my wandering suitcase at last. Getting the thing at the Florence airport (a dump) was like a sitcom. I go as instructed to the Lost + Fouind window. A young woman takes my info, fills out a foem and tells mw to go to the end of the building and go left through the blue door. I gg. I'm told to go to the window at the end of this room, a...
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If it's Wednesday, it must be Emilia-Romagna
Data:2008-09-17 22:18:06
Description:Already it's midnight here in Italy, and it's a been a long day. Good news: jetlag is finito. Also: though my suitcase is still among the missing, I did receive generous permission from Delta Airlines to buy "the bare essentials" so that I may walk proudly again among the well-scrubbed and presentable. Hypermarket shopping at its most luxurious. We drove a long way from Barolo to Reggio Emilia, or so it seemed after I took the wrong turn at a roundabout and found myself facing racing on-coming traffic. My partners...
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From the road
Data:2008-09-17 10:53:50
Description:Barolo to Reggio Emilia. We tasted a large number of wines yesterday. One great, the others terrible. So far, two out of four have been very promising. A decent average, to be sure. We had a multi-course dinner of thrilling quality at La Cantinetta in Barolo last night. Or maybe it tasted so good because we'd had grotty tramezzinI on the autostrada? Onward. The boys await. I am chauffeur today. The limo's looking like a messy birdcage. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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Adventures in Veneto
Data:2008-09-16 09:51:14
Description:Oh the wacky GPS system! The twisty country roads, the spotty cell phone reception, the even spottier BlackBerry email reception, oh and the lost suitcase! That suitcase has seen more than me. It spent a comfortable night with its friends at JFK while I grimaced and put on the same socks, shirt and undies for three days. Three days you say? Oh, then my suitcase spent a night in Madrid -- I've never been to Spain at all! And then Venice and to Cuneo, where I am told it will...
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Monday Rerun 3: New vs Old Italian New York
Data:2008-09-15 04:10:00
Description:Here is a post that generated some comment in Italy at the time. I think there's still relevance.
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Ciao for now
Data:2008-09-13 19:40:22
Description:Gee, I haven't been to Italy in so long. I'm not used to being at home for 6 whole weeks at a stretch. Well, that's about to change. We leave in 20 minutes for JFK, will be landing in Venice tomorrow. Our sprint from North to South begins on Monday morning. I don't know how often I'll be able to get Wi-Fi access, but thank Bacchus for my BlackBerry. Now I can only hope that being out of intimate touch with American political insanity will be salutary for my mental...
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Off topic? No apologies
Data:2008-09-12 15:18:40
Description:My recent obsession with the US presidential campaign has overwhelmed my blogging about wine. Wine is supposed to be the focus of this blog, and it usually is. I love tasting, drinking, thinking, reading, writing and debating wine. My deepest passion, as we know, is for Italian wine, and I am strongly attracted to the landscapes, culture and the people who make the wine. I love crazy old Italy. I feel at home there. But we live in perilous times, as the cliche goes. I'm not speaking so much about...
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9/11. Again a means to someone's ends
Data:2008-09-11 04:00:38
Description:No, it's not a Monday Rerun. But in it I commemorate, angrily, the base exploitation of this date by politicians of all stripes, largely the jingoistic, fear-mongering party in power. I can only add that what I said in 2006 goes double now. A shame. Truly shameful. Meanwhile, let me be the first to invite you to celebrate Terrorist Day. It's the old 9/11, but now we're giving credit to the Terrorists for winning, thanks to the cynicism, manipulation and of course the downright ineptitude of the Bush administration. This...
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Now the bad news
Data:2008-09-10 13:31:30
Description:The weak dollar has shown itself in the latest stats on wine sales. Here's the bad news from Winespiritsdaily.com: DOMESTIC WINES OVERWHELM IN JULY Growth of domestic wines overwhelmed imports in the four weeks to August 10, according to IRI data. Dollar sales of domestics grew 5.1%, while volume rose 2.8%. Meanwhile, imported wines declined -1.4% in value and a whopping -6% in volume. All table wines combined grew 3.6% in dollar sales and 1.2% in volume. Countries with a strong currency, and coincidentally more developed wine industry, seemed to...
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My week in review
Data:2008-09-09 04:05:00
Description:Strappo's had a hell of a week. May I vent? Posso sfogarmi? (It means "may I vent"). 1. He went out to dinner 26 times. He enjoyed one. 2. He vowed to drink less. He has, a tad. His life is not redeemed regardless. 3. He came down with shingles. I believe this is the modern name for one of the afflictions with which Yahweh smote Job. Well forgive him for being a Gay-American for Obama. Job is the one on the ground being covered in angelic effluents . ....
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triciacolianne
mondosapore

Lost sheep update
Data:2008-09-18 11:17:57
Description:In an Autogrill, one of the good ones that stretches over the autostrada. I'm content. I'm reunited with my wandering suitcase at last. Getting the thing at the Florence airport (a dump) was like a sitcom. I go as instructed to the Lost + Fouind window. A young woman takes my info, fills out a foem and tells mw to go to the end of the building and go left through the blue door. I gg. I'm told to go to the window at the end of this room, a...
Content:

Tags:


If it's Wednesday, it must be Emilia-Romagna
Data:2008-09-17 22:18:06
Description:Already it's midnight here in Italy, and it's a been a long day. Good news: jetlag is finito. Also: though my suitcase is still among the missing, I did receive generous permission from Delta Airlines to buy "the bare essentials" so that I may walk proudly again among the well-scrubbed and presentable. Hypermarket shopping at its most luxurious. We drove a long way from Barolo to Reggio Emilia, or so it seemed after I took the wrong turn at a roundabout and found myself facing racing on-coming traffic. My partners...
Content:

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From the road
Data:2008-09-17 10:53:50
Description:Barolo to Reggio Emilia. We tasted a large number of wines yesterday. One great, the others terrible. So far, two out of four have been very promising. A decent average, to be sure. We had a multi-course dinner of thrilling quality at La Cantinetta in Barolo last night. Or maybe it tasted so good because we'd had grotty tramezzinI on the autostrada? Onward. The boys await. I am chauffeur today. The limo's looking like a messy birdcage. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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Adventures in Veneto
Data:2008-09-16 09:51:14
Description:Oh the wacky GPS system! The twisty country roads, the spotty cell phone reception, the even spottier BlackBerry email reception, oh and the lost suitcase! That suitcase has seen more than me. It spent a comfortable night with its friends at JFK while I grimaced and put on the same socks, shirt and undies for three days. Three days you say? Oh, then my suitcase spent a night in Madrid -- I've never been to Spain at all! And then Venice and to Cuneo, where I am told it will...
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Monday Rerun 3: New vs Old Italian New York
Data:2008-09-15 04:10:00
Description:Here is a post that generated some comment in Italy at the time. I think there's still relevance.
Content:

Tags:


Ciao for now
Data:2008-09-13 19:40:22
Description:Gee, I haven't been to Italy in so long. I'm not used to being at home for 6 whole weeks at a stretch. Well, that's about to change. We leave in 20 minutes for JFK, will be landing in Venice tomorrow. Our sprint from North to South begins on Monday morning. I don't know how often I'll be able to get Wi-Fi access, but thank Bacchus for my BlackBerry. Now I can only hope that being out of intimate touch with American political insanity will be salutary for my mental...
Content:

Tags:


Off topic? No apologies
Data:2008-09-12 15:18:40
Description:My recent obsession with the US presidential campaign has overwhelmed my blogging about wine. Wine is supposed to be the focus of this blog, and it usually is. I love tasting, drinking, thinking, reading, writing and debating wine. My deepest passion, as we know, is for Italian wine, and I am strongly attracted to the landscapes, culture and the people who make the wine. I love crazy old Italy. I feel at home there. But we live in perilous times, as the cliche goes. I'm not speaking so much about...
Content:

Tags:


9/11. Again a means to someone's ends
Data:2008-09-11 04:00:38
Description:No, it's not a Monday Rerun. But in it I commemorate, angrily, the base exploitation of this date by politicians of all stripes, largely the jingoistic, fear-mongering party in power. I can only add that what I said in 2006 goes double now. A shame. Truly shameful. Meanwhile, let me be the first to invite you to celebrate Terrorist Day. It's the old 9/11, but now we're giving credit to the Terrorists for winning, thanks to the cynicism, manipulation and of course the downright ineptitude of the Bush administration. This...
Content:

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Now the bad news
Data:2008-09-10 13:31:30
Description:The weak dollar has shown itself in the latest stats on wine sales. Here's the bad news from Winespiritsdaily.com: DOMESTIC WINES OVERWHELM IN JULY Growth of domestic wines overwhelmed imports in the four weeks to August 10, according to IRI data. Dollar sales of domestics grew 5.1%, while volume rose 2.8%. Meanwhile, imported wines declined -1.4% in value and a whopping -6% in volume. All table wines combined grew 3.6% in dollar sales and 1.2% in volume. Countries with a strong currency, and coincidentally more developed wine industry, seemed to...
Content:

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My week in review
Data:2008-09-09 04:05:00
Description:Strappo's had a hell of a week. May I vent? Posso sfogarmi? (It means "may I vent"). 1. He went out to dinner 26 times. He enjoyed one. 2. He vowed to drink less. He has, a tad. His life is not redeemed regardless. 3. He came down with shingles. I believe this is the modern name for one of the afflictions with which Yahweh smote Job. Well forgive him for being a Gay-American for Obama. Job is the one on the ground being covered in angelic effluents . ....
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winewaves

A Weird Bottle, A Postage Stamp of a Label, A Big Mouth, A Screw Cap, and A Very Likeable Red Bordeaux: Francis Coppola Encyclopedia Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Data:2008-09-16 08:27:39
Description:At first, you can't wrap your mind around the "Erlenmeyer flask" shaped bottle and the other non-standard elements. Then you think, this must be a clever juxtaposition. Weird bottle, un-weird wine. No one would go to this length to draw attention to bad wine. Then you think, this isn't a...
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Coppola Encyclopedia Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon 2005At first, you can't wrap your mind around the "Erlenmeyer flask" shaped bottle and the other non-standard elements. Then you think, this must be a clever juxtaposition. Weird bottle, un-weird wine. No one would go to this length to draw attention to bad wine. Then you think, this isn't a wine to lay down, because you can't fit it in your wine rack. Good thing, because who wants to wait? What if you never get around to drinking it? It's better to drink wine, than to continually have to dust it.

The Coppola Companies latest concept wine is Encyclopedia. Now in the top 20 wine companies (ranking by case volume), Coppola is keen to get on, to offer more wines from more regions. The Encyclopedia concept is focused on unearthing wines that truly represent their regions. It appears Coppola isn't afraid to look different (on the outside), if it gets people to try what's inside. It's risky business I suppose. The wine inside better be excellent, and truly represent its region.

Encyclopedia Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 does it. You get plenty of black cherry from start to finish, nice complexity from overtones of herbs and mild oak spice, balanced soft tannins, and a very smooth, some might say elegant, texture. This isn't a monster Cab, rather, it's a very approachable Bordeaux that happens to be a Cab. The alcohol content is less than most California Cabernets. The fruit comes across like preserves. There aren't any rough edges. The finish evolves a restrained hint of vanilla and goes dusty dry as it should. This is a cut above expectations for an under-$15 Bordeaux.

This Cab turned out to be a great match for flank steak; medium-rare, dry-rubbed, pan-seared, grass-fed beef. It didn't overpower the rub, a nice aromatic combination of herbs and spices I probably could never repeat.

Price: $13 (Nashville). Alcohol content: 12.5%. Closure: Screw cap.



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Not Your Father's Gallo? Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 and Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006
Data:2008-09-15 05:05:48
Description:E & J Gallo Winery is doing a good job with their vast portfolio these days, and they seem to understand the sweet spot of the market, $8-$15 a bottle wines. But telling someone "this is a new wine from Gallo" doesn't help sell it. There is a negative stigma,...
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E & J Gallo Winery is doing a good job with their vast portfolio these days, and they seem to understand the sweet spot of the market, $8-$15 a bottle wines. But telling someone "this is a new wine from Gallo" doesn't help sell it. There is a negative stigma, a sense that a Gallo wine is something "my father drank". I think people want a story to go with a wine, even a bottle of wine that doesn't cost a lot. Wine is about romance, isn't it? So, what do you do if you're Gallo? You have great connections, great buying power, you know how to deliver, but you don't have the "street cred" of a boutique winery? Answer: You "make up" some concepts, put them in front of focus groups, go with the apparent "winners", and try to over-deliver with the product.

My past week was busier than usual, and none of the wines I was able to taste could be considered an authentic "boutique" wine. But I was surprised (and delighted) by the quality Gallo is putting into these bottles. Mind you, the concepts are "corny", but if it's what's in the bottle, and what you're paying that matters, then take note.

Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Starborough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007
First of all, Starborough is too close to "Marlborough" to avoid being found guilty of obvious marketing alliteration. The label is too conceptual to be the result of anything authentic. The colors try too hard to communicate the shrill, green, southern hemispheric nature of the wine inside the bottle.

Still, the label is eye-catching, and the price is really what makes you curious. At $10-11 (or less), you are struck by the savings potential versus the other New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs that are creeping towards $20. So, you give in and try. You are rewarded when one sniff and one sip reveals the wine is true to form. There is no doubt this is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. You get the gooseberry, the passionfruit, not to mention green pea and flinty minerality. The flavor on the tongue is shrill enough to thrill, even tending towards mustard seed. The finish is clean and dry, without any noticeable flaws.

It's none of my business of course, but I think Gallo should put this one in a 3 Liter box. The market is crying out for a good distinctive Sauvignon Blanc in a box, very much a premium/super-premium grade, priced competitively. At just under $30/3 Liter Box, this would fit the bill.

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006 Da Vinci Chianti DOCG 2006
It seems Chianti has been cheapened so in latter years. You feel your words are landing on deaf ears when you try to explain Chianti is a place, a region, and that the grape is predominately Sangiovese. Worst yet, many times over it is Macaroni Grill "Chianti" that people are seeking when they ask for Chianti by name. I wonder if this generic syndrome hasn't created a sense of "who cares" in the entry level Chianti market. How could Gallo address this market and "make hay"?

Da Vinci Chianti is Gallo's entry level Italian Tuscan red, priced at $10-12 a bottle.  The concept and label, like Starborough's, are over-developed and inauthentic. The Da Vinci label is simply too "Americanized" to have Italian wine "street cred". But, at this price, you give it a try anyway, especially if you happened to see a shelf talker touting a solid rating. As with Starborough, you are likely impressed that what's in the bottle is true to form, and in fact, over-delivers. There is nothing "fussy" about it. The body is substantial for an entry level Chianti, the structure is there, and of course you get the lovely cherry fruit and aromatic nose you look for in a Tuscan red. Too often I feel we over-pay for Italian reds, especially after the stories I hear from people who just returned from "the boot". But not here - the price is right.

Price: $12 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13%.

E & J Gallo's portfolio has a number of labels that I regularly recommend because they deliver great juice for the money. It all depends on how much you have to spend, of course, but some of their other labels I find easy to suggest are: Barefoot (inexpensive and easy for a crowd to like), Dancing Bull (Zin), Ecco Domani (Pinot Grigio), Martin Codax (great Albariño), Red Bicyclette (Rosé), Red Rock (Merlot), and Sebeka (Shiraz/Pinotage). These are not great label concepts, but after the bottle is opened, it's what's inside that counts. To be fair, I must admit that the Turning Leaf label, also one of Gallo's, has disappointed me personally on several occasions. Maybe the next vintage will change my mind on that?

Galveston Texas 1900 Storm Memorial photgraphed by Jerry Hall 2006 As a postscript, Da Vinci is not actually a concept brand, but a bricks and mortar grower's cooperative in Tuscany. Da Vinci, let me better put it, is a very conceptual non-concept brand. To extend the reach of their offerings, according to the Company, Gallo uses "a variety of business models, depending on the opportunity that exists out there at the time." Good job - it's not easy to be the largest wine company (case sales, WBM, 2006), and deliver a boutique wine experience.

By way of marking this week's big event: To the people of Galveston, we raise a glass and toast to your resilience. When you are so privileged to live on the edge, you undoubtedly take the good with the occasionally bad. We wish you all the best in rebounding from Hurricane Ike.



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2005 Peter Franus Brandlin Vineyards Mount Veeder Zinfandel
Data:2008-09-07 09:52:57
Description:Before all the all the details and adjectives I have one thing to say - Wow. I'm tipping my review hand here early by starting with the fact that the 2005 Franus Brandlin Zinfandel is an amazing bottle. It's one of those wines you want to tell all your friends...
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Before all the all the details and adjectives I have one thing to say - Wow.

I'm tipping my review hand here early by starting with the fact that the 2005 Franus Brandlin Zinfandel is an amazing bottle. It's one of those wines you want to tell all your friends about, a wine that you feel a sort of sadness as you pour the last glass.

So, yes, I liked it. If you caught my Klinker Brick review a few weeks ago you read that I don't have a long tasting history with Zinfandel. However, the Klinker Brick actually inspired me to start trying more Zin. The Franus was a little pricey, so it took me a little while to work up the courage to drop $40 on it. I think there's some psychological barrier everyone has at any particular price point. For me it's $30. Anything under $30 is a no brainer, I'll buy it; over $30 I'll have to give it a think.

First some background on Peter Franus - unlike many winemakers, Franus doesn't grow his own grapes or own his own vineyard, he's more of an artisan winemaker who works with various growers to produce the grapes for the wines that bear his name. Prior to striking out on his own, Franus was winemaker at several well known wineries including Chalone, Chateau St. Jean and others. He currently produces a half dozen different wines including two Zins, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, a Mourvèdre and a red blend. The two zins differ in origin: one is from Nape, the other, the bottle I had; is from Brandlin Vineyard on Mount  Veeder, northwest of Napa.

The 2005 Peter Franus Brandlin Vineyards Mount Veeder Zinfandel is 98% Zinfandel, 2% Charbono, Mourvèdre, Carignane. The Zinfandel grapes are from 80+ year old vines. The 2005 vintage was aged for 15 months in 40% new French oak. The production is only 668 cases, so get it while you can.

As I have taken to doing with pricey wines and all Zins, I decanted the Franus for about an hour before I sipped it. In the decanter and the glass it exhibits a glassy, ruby red color. The nose is, like all aspects of this wine, subtle but made up of wonderful aromas of blueberry and minerals. Unusually for a wine with almost 16% alcohol, there's very little heat. The most interesting thing I noticed first off was that the Franus didn't exhibit any of the jammy, strawberry preserve flavor I have come to expect from Zinfandel.

Often when I'm reading up on a wine and the tasting notes call it 'subtle' what they really mean is watery. The Franus Zinfandel is the exception, absolutely. It's definitely subtle, but in the best possible way. Your palate isn't knocked over by alchohol and fruit; there's just a wealth of flavors and tastes that surprise you and bring a smile to your face. There's dark red fruit, a hint of cherry and this great undertone from the oak.

I'll finish where I started - wow. I'll be buying more, for sure. For regular readers, I'll be working my way through the Franus catalogue this winter, I think. So stay tuned.

Price: $39 (Out West). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 15.9%.



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A Look At Three 2006 Paso Robles Cabs: Robert Hall, Victor Hugo and Justin
Data:2008-09-07 07:13:06
Description:Robert Hall is a most likable person. From my selfish point of view, his second career in the wine business has been more rewarding than his first career as a real estate developer in Minnesota. You wouldn't be blowing smoke or be guilty of sacrilege, if you called him the...
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Robert Hall Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006Robert Hall is a most likable person. From my selfish point of view, his second career in the wine business has been more rewarding than his first career as a real estate developer in Minnesota. You wouldn't be blowing smoke or be guilty of sacrilege, if you called him the Robert Mondavi of Paso Robles.

Robert Hall Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is the personification of California Cabernet as I think of it; at once world class, modern, optimistic, expressive, and not overpriced. A lot of California Cabernets have forgotten about that last idea, not overpriced. But somehow, maybe due to the midwestern roots of the eternally youthful Mr. Hall, the Cab he puts his name on hasn't gotten priced out of my range. I'm rooting for his longevity, and that he hangs on to his winery as long as possible, so we can continue to buy his great wines at a great price.

Expect classic Cab aromas of black currants, cassis liqueur and sweet spice, with overtones of cedar. Neither under ripe nor a fruit bomb, this is a luxurious buttoned-down claret suitable for casual affairs. Neither opulent nor austere, neither stuffy nor nouveau riche, this Cab is clean, true to form, and it over-delivers. The textbook Cab flavors evolve nicely on the tongue, staying black in fruit character, and the structure asserts itself as the spice evolves in the cocoa-dust-laden finish.

This Cab is 80+% Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc blended in. Barrel aging was 14 months.

Price: $18 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Victor Hugo Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
A long time ago, Victor Hugo said, "My tastes are aristocratic, my actions democratic." The 19th century French poet and human rights activist expressed himself in many ways throughout his life, though he was perhaps best known for his epic work "Les Misérables". Conservative in his youth before becoming a "free-thinker" and advocate for the "common man" later in life, he said, "the wise man does not grow old, but ripens."

It is fitting that Victor Hugo Roberts chose to make the literary connection when he labeled his wines. Paso Robles is an appropriate place for free-thinking people to grow wise and ripen. We expect provocative no-holds-barred, expressive, let's say well-extracted, wines to come from Paso Robles. Victor Hugo (Roberts) delivers with Victor Hugo Cabernet 2006.

If someone put a brown bag on this Cab, you might not guess it for a Cab; you might be thinking Zinfandel. As Cabernet goes, this is a fruit bomb. If you're going to drop bombs, I say make them out of fruit. This is a most decadent Cabernet Sauvignon, the kind of Cab that makes you want to loosen you tie and get in the hot tub. Deep candy apple red in color, it has a slight haze to it that makes it seem opaque. The aromas are raspberry, blueberry, loganberry, nutmeg, sweet spice and hints of earth. On the tongue, black cherry and spice flavors carry forward the democratic decadence - hedonism for everyone. The finish is dusty dry with a nice kick to it. It's not a textbook Cab, but you can't help but like it.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aging was 18 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels.

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.8%.

My favorite Victor Hugo quote? "Forty is the old age of youth; fifty the youth of old age." Why? I'll be fifty in December.

Justin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Justin Baldwin began pioneering wine making in Paso Robles in the early 1980's. Together with wife Deborah and their staff, the focus of Justin is combining old world tradition and new world techniques. They succeed with Justin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. This is a complex, firm, steak wine.

Barrel aging was 18 months in 3/10 new oak, American and French, weighted more towards American.

The color is deep dark crimson, with an unfiltered slightly hazy appearance that makes it seem opaque. Expect tart cherry and blackberry flavors and aromas to dominate the palate, while spice, roasted and vanilla notes play over the fruit in the nose. All the while, tannins will likely keep a firm grip on your tongue. I found the finish to be dusty and gravelly, like a Pauillac, with a bit of vanilla being the last note.

Price: $25 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

I can only conclude one thing from comparing these outstanding, albeit different Paso Robles Cabs. That is, a trip to Paso Robles needs to be on my agenda for the very near future. It may not be as easy to get to as Napa, Sonoma, Santa Barbara, Temecula, Monterey, Mendocino, or Amador. But the pilgrim's path is never easy. Meanwhile, you can't go wrong with any of these Paso Cabs.



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A to Z Wineworks Night & Day Oregon Red 2005
Data:2008-08-29 07:06:34
Description:There is a Samuel Johnson quote on the back label that states, "The fact of twilight does not mean you cannot tell day from night." The choice of this obscure yet provocative and timely bite of wisdom from 300+ years ago would have to make you curious about what's in...
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A to Z Wineworks Night & Day Oregon Red 2005There is a Samuel Johnson quote on the back label that states, "The fact of twilight does not mean you cannot tell day from night." The choice of this obscure yet provocative and timely bite of wisdom from 300+ years ago would have to make you curious about what's in the bottle. It's a fair sight better than the reading on the back label of most bottles, or anything I could write. As they said in the 70's, "heavy, man". One would have to expect a deep wine experience to justify that line.

You won't be disappointed. There isn't a lot of buzz about wines from the Rogue Valley and surrounding area in southern Oregon. This part of the country is really out there. You can still get lost here, or perhaps you might "find yourself". A to Z Wineworks might have called this wine "Lost & Found", but "Night & Day" works fine. The points are, this is a well made Bordeaux-style blend and it's one that makes you think, maybe too much. This isn't a wine for mindless consumption.

A to Z Night & Day 2005 is 33% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, plus 6% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 6% Sangiovese, 2% Nebbiolo and 2% Tempranillo. The minor components stray from the Bordeaux theme, but tireless blending is a mark of the A to Z Wineworks. Often this skill is put to use assembling lots of Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, in search of synergy. Fortunately, they have not stopped with these better known Oregon grapes.

You might go on and on trying to describe this one, just as you might keep thinking about that Dr. Johnson quote on the back label. I'll say the aromas run the gamut of berries, from black to red, and there's tobacco and oregano in there with the fruit. The black is the base note, and the red is the melody. As you keep sniffing it, you pick up subtle wood spice, the atmosphere. On the tongue the intensity increases, there is pepper, and dusty cocoa tannins carry the mixed berry liqueur flavors through a rocky finish.

What did Dr. Johnson mean? I'm not sure, so how about another easier to get quote of his. "Wine makes a man more pleased with himself; I do not say that it makes him more pleasing to others."

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.9%.

Rainbow



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Château Candale Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005
Data:2008-08-28 06:27:43
Description:Wine making dates back 1800 years in Saint-Emilion, yet there seems to be plenty of controversy these days about the wine from here. Who are the top chateaux and who are not? This is the subject of a 2006 classification and more recently, a contrary court ruling earlier this year....
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Chateau Candale Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2005Wine making dates back 1800 years in Saint-Emilion, yet there seems to be plenty of controversy these days about the wine from here. Who are the top chateaux and who are not? This is the subject of a 2006 classification and more recently, a contrary court ruling earlier this year. Then, there is continuing talk about garagistes, rogue vintners who are known to make wine "out of a garage", willing to clash with gustatory traditions, and not shy about their asking prices.

Chateau De Candale is the second Adams French Vineyards 2005 Bordeaux I've tasted and reviewed here on Winewaves. I like Ch. Lagarosse, and I like Candale even more. In describing this wine, start at the end and work your way back to the beginning. The finish is lengthy and grows on you, and that's what you're probably looking for when spending $35 for a bottle. In this price range, length counts. The fruit eventually disappears, but the rocks stay on your tongue more than long enough to text your friends about it.

This is not an overly alcoholic wine, nor is it a fruit bomb. This is a fruit symphony in a major key, performed in such a way to make you stop and listen, an arresting presentation. There is a modernity to the way you are moved by this wine, a sense that the credit isn't all due to the grapes and the soil they spring from. Can you taste the conductor of this symphony?

Working back to the beginning, the texture is polished, and the flavors are layered. You taste a wealth of cherry and red berry flavors, from tart juice to dried fruit, demonstrating excellent balance, This comes on the heels of beautiful perfumed aromas of cherries, red currants, gentle cinnamon-like spice and a number of other essences that together bring to mind fine aged bourbon whiskey. There is a slight haze to the dark ruby color.

The blend is 80/20 Merlot/Cabernet Franc. Aging was 20+ months in reportedly all new French oak barrels. Less than 800 cases were produced.

Robert Parker says Saint-Emilion rates 99 points for the 2005 vintage. Most people will be looking for the big names that can be cellared for years or even decades. Here is a sensational buy for those like myself who are less patient and want to know what all the buzz is about now.

Price: $35 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.



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Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2005
Data:2008-08-26 04:43:48
Description:Unbeknownst to me, Bearboat Pinot Noir has been around a while. An unknown commodity to me when it arrived a couple of months ago in Nashville, I was destined to gravitate towards it. After all, it has all the pieces of the puzzle I'm looking for.First, I like the label....
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Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2005Unbeknownst to me, Bearboat Pinot Noir has been around a while. An unknown commodity to me when it arrived a couple of months ago in Nashville, I was destined to gravitate towards it. After all, it has all the pieces of the puzzle I'm looking for.

First, I like the label. It's smack dab in the middle of classic and tongue-in-cheek, with its engraved quality, somewhat sepia tones, and the humorous bears-in-the-boat illustration. Second, it's Russian River Pinot Noir, rarely a mistake to buy under $20. Next, there's the weighty burgundy bottle that you wouldn't want to drop on your foot, but you would want to open. And then there's all the hidden meanings. By that I mean the bear, primarily. The bear as the symbol of Russia. The bear as the symbol of California. And last but not least, the bear as the symbol of jocular middle-age gay guys (such as myself), who love to inhabit the Russian River area, particularly the town of Guerneville, often with cubs in tow.

I haven't yet grown into the body of a true bear, but that's due to all the jumping rope and bicycling that tends to keep me on the lean side. I don't have any facial hair, but that's a superficial manifestation. I'm a late bloomer, so maybe I can report back when I've reached true bear status and can afford to spend weekends in a cabin along the Russian River. Until then, I'll stick with sampling as many Russian River Pinots as I can.

Piper-Sonoma, owned by Remy Cointreau last time I checked, produces the Bearboat line. The line is reportedly a 60,000+ case business, including Chardonnay. How is it this juice never found its way past my lips before?

Nowadays $20 doesn't guarantee you a fabulous Pinot Noir experience, but rather, you're happy if you get something with some real character and finesse. With well-known wine maker and consultant Raphaël Brisbois reportedly combining his technical expertise with Piper-Sonoma's Pinot Noir sourcing prowess, you would be disappointed if something really good didn't emerge. And out of the Bodega Bay fog comes a classic palate pleaser.

Ten months in French oak is judicious, and lightly fining the wine leaves a hint of fog in the bright garnet color. Expect a Pinot that's a bit more towards red than black, but with some of both. Not surprisingly for a bubbly maker's efforts, a bit of toast surrounds the aromas of black cherry and red currant. On the tongue, you might say it's more like strawberry and red currant preserves, joined by a licorice "buzz" - more a mouth feel thing than that licorice candy or Ouzo you think of. The texture is downright silky. Overall, I give it high marks for freshness, fruit, and refined texture, and it's well worth the $20 price paid.

Bearboat goes great with, what else, wild salmon! It's only Monday, and we had a couple of end filet's from a sockeye, so this fish found its way onto our plates in the form of salmon cakes. Instead of the usual salmon from the can, we crisped the fish, then poached it the rest of the way in Picpoul de Pinet. Then we picked it into small pieces, let it cool, grated in some sweet onion, cracked in some pepper, lumped in some leftover mashed potatoes, shook in some whole wheat panko crumbs, shook in some celery seed, added a beated egg, and formed patties. Back into the original pan they went, with more olive oil and butter, and the result was lots better than the standard Monday night salmon cakes. Pinot Noir, in this case Bearboat, is a great match for such fare. The meal became complete with the side dishes: speckled butter beans, turnip greens, cole slaw and fresh heirloom tomatoes (for the 40th day in a row!).

Price: $20 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.



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Another Review of Mollydooker Goosebumps McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz 2006
Data:2008-08-24 04:29:46
Description:In the spirit of point-counterpoint, Siskel and Ebert (Ebert and Roeper) and other famous reviewing duos, this review is the parallel take on Jim Freeway's review of the same wine, here on Winewaves. Jim gave it a thumbs-down, I give it a thumbs-up, although I admit it is pricey compared...
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Mollydooker Goose Bumps McLaren Vale Sparkling Shiraz 2006In the spirit of point-counterpoint, Siskel and Ebert (Ebert and Roeper) and other famous reviewing duos, this review is the parallel take on Jim Freeway's review of the same wine, here on Winewaves. Jim gave it a thumbs-down, I give it a thumbs-up, although I admit it is pricey compared to other alternatives.

My bottle of Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz has been waiting for the right occasion to be opened for a good while. It's nearly time for the annually awaited release of Sparky's Mollydooker line, that eventually arrives in Nashville each October. My partner's birthday celebration would be enough, but Jim Freeway's timely review clinched the decision to pop that cork. When do you pop the cork on a $50+ bottle of sparkling Shiraz? Now.

I've had the pleasure of meeting Sparky, although not Sarah, his wife, who comes up with the fun graphic designs. Sparky can be an irreverent yet somewhat quiet person, even when he's in his opposite hemisphere, operating on a sleep deficit, and required to exist on a diet too rich in fermented products. Such are the hazards of the wine business, I suppose. My point here is Sparky does not seem to take himself that seriously, no matter the ratings and buzz that has surrounded most of his products.

In this spirit of "let's not take ourselves too seriously", Mollydooker Goosebumps is offered up. In that regard, I think it measures up quite well. This is not Champagne, it's sparkling Shiraz. We decided to pair it with a southern "meat and 3" dinner of country fried hamburgers and gravy, corn on the cob, herb mashed potatoes, slaw, and fresh sliced Brandywine tomatoes. This southern meal is a metaphor for the wine. Like a 4x4 pickup truck with a lift kit installed, this is Shiraz with a lift. If you're expecting a monumental Champagne experience, you're going to be disappointed. If you're looking for a new twist on Australian Shiraz, and your mind is open at the moment, you might get into it.

I wonder how many of the reviewers who have been disappointed with this sparkler had unrealized expectations. I admit one wonders about when is the right time to open a sparkling Shiraz. The answer is: when you are in the mood for fun. Or, when you're feeling a bit irreverent. This wine really would make more sense sold alongside Shiraz than Champagne. It's more Shiraz with a tickle, than Champagne with pigment. It opens the door to questioning how all wines are perceived versus the context they are presented. I've never been an advocate of blind tasting without context. That is, unless your are only attempting to measure the intensity of specific attributes. But when you're trying to assess an overall opinion, based on how much you like a wine, true blind tasting robs you of a context. Enough of this too-technical discourse.

Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz 2006 provides plenty of rich purple bubbles. The appearance is deep, dark and nearly opaque, like a solid Shiraz. Blueberry and blackberry liqueur aromas are buffeted by a bit of smoke  (Sparky says chocolate covered raisins). Flavor wise, it's like a well-extracted Shiraz, but lifted and more refreshing, especially served chilled. This seems like a good thing, as it provides a bounce to offset the density. The jammy anti-oxidant rich fruit, a mixture of black and blue berry, pomegranate, and acai, are tart enough. There is a nice tannic structure, and the finish has just a touch of that yeasty flavor to remind you it was fermented twice.

You can argue about the value premise here. It is a $50-60 bottle. But Mollydooker is an upmarket label, known for over-the-top extraction. If this was a Mollydooker still wine, I might find it too-too, and I might blend it with a light-bodied Grenache. With its bubbles, Goosebumps worked for me, as-is.

Sparky and Sarah Marquis split off from Dan Philips and his Grateful Palate Imports labels after the 2004 vintage of Marquis-Philips wines. Since then, both parties have delivered pure marketing and product magic. Grateful Palate continues to market the Marquis-Philips label, delivering great value within, but Marquis is no longer involved. Sparky and Sarah gave up the rights to the label that bears their own name in the "divorce". From my perspective, the split was a "Bitch", hence the Grateful Palate wine sensation by that name was born. However, Marquis and Philips seem to have landed feet first, at least for now.

Price: $50+ (2006 hard to find - 2007 soon). Alcohol content: 15%.



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2006 Mollydooker Goosebumps Sparkling Shiraz
Data:2008-08-23 04:54:12
Description:First off pardon the dearth of posts, it's rather hot here out west and wine is not a summer pastime. In fact, for fear of heat damage, all fine wine shops here do not receive new inventory from the end of May through October. This is disaster for trying new...
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First off pardon the dearth of posts, it's rather hot here out west and wine is not a summer pastime. In fact, for fear of heat damage, all fine wine shops here do not receive new inventory from the end of May through October. This is disaster for trying new things or getting new vintages of old favorites - but it's great on the pocket as bottle shops try to unload their inventory in anticipation of new stuff in the fall. There's that and...try as I might, I have not mastered Jerry's patented bottle on the side photography technique - but no matter. I think you'll get the idea:

Goosebumps

I recently inked a new business deal and to celebrate decided to get a bottle of bubbly. My go-to bubbly is usually something from the alchemists at Billecarte-Salmon. However, this week I was a) unwilling to drive to the only place that keeps the stuff in stock and b) looking for an excuse to try this curiousity known as sparkling shiraz.

I'm not sure when I first heard of this stuff - but in my minds eye...er mouth I imagined this to be a charming, quirky take on bubbly much like Proseco. I located a bottle and put it on ice where upon my first dilemma arose - champagne glasses or wine glasses? I stuck with champagne stems.

At this point I should note that I didn't do any research on this, as I often do before I buy a +$50 bottle. Keep that in mind - it'll be funny later on.

Quick background on MollyDooker: It's the latest outgrowth from husband and wife wine making team  Sarah & Sparky Marquis. They insist that you pronounce their last name 'mar-kwis' but it sounds so much more fun if you pronounce it the French way: 'Sparky Markey' sounds like some sort of wine making secret agent. Anyway, they make a number of quirky, robust, slightly upmarket (over $35 here) wines under this label. If you've had a bottle of Marquis Philips - which is a great deal more reasonable ($17 here) - you've tasted their work, as well.

Anyway, the ball and chain and I polished off dinner (grilled carne asada - two thumbs up there!) and I popped the cork on the Goosebumps. The first thing you get on the nose is a blast of carbonate propelled fruit. Compared to your typical Aussie fruit bomb - this is a fruit mortar. In the mouth your first thought is, "WOW, this is actually sparkling shiraz!" followed soon after by, "What the hell was I thinking anyway?" The carbonation process imparts a powerful sweetness to what might otherwise be a very decent Shiraz.

What you are left with is a curiosity that will, most likely make you wonder what else you could have dropped $56 on. As I was drinking this I was thinking of a non vintage Billecarte Salmon or even non bubbly - Peter Franus Zinfandel. The Old Ghost from Lodi. An Alexander Valley Silver Oak - if you're a careful shopper...a Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cab, even. What I wasn't at all thinking is of buying another bottle of Goosebumps.

As an after thought I did a little research on Cellar Tracker and some other sites and came up with the following pithy reviews:

"Ugh! Did not like this wine at all. I must say it was what it promised to be: a dark, brooding, overwhelming Mollydooker shiraz bomb with gas. But just think about that for a second, is that enjoyable? No, no it isn't."

"Just not good. Ugh I have 2 more bottles to get rid of."

"This stuff was absolutely wretched. Over the top alcoholic and artificial fruit flavors that remind me of trying to wash dirt out of my mouth with Robitussin cough syrup."

"I really had trouble choking down this wine. I could not get past the feel inside my mouth to evaluate the taste. It reminded me of pop rocks."

Lesson learned.

Price: $56 (Out West). Closure: Real cork with wire. Alcohol content: 15.0%.



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The Schizophrenic Nature of Bordeaux Blend Minor Components: Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc 2006 and Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006
Data:2008-08-20 05:02:49
Description:There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary...
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There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.

Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.

These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006
Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.

When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.

You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky.  Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006 Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.

In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.

Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.

Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!



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Sorsetti

SALAPARUTA UNA PICCOLA GRANDE DOC
Data:2013-03-22 08:36:09
Description:A circa un’ora da Palermo, prendendo la Palermo-Sciacca si giunge in un paese immerso in splendide campagne tra dolci colline tutte coltivate a vigneti. La provincia è quella di Trapani. Siamo a Salaparuta, vicino al fiume Belice, una zona ricca e fertile che nella storia è stata contesa da varie popolazioni proprio per la sua […]
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BALESTRATE SUMMER BEER FEST? UN MARE DI BIRRA
Data:2012-07-18 09:14:23
Description:Un boccale di birra freddo??? Al via la prima edizione di Summer Beer Fest un Mare di Birra ideata dalla società Rosa d’Eventi Wine e Food Tour in collaborazione con Brassicola srl e il famoso birrificio tedesco Herrnbrau. La manifestazione, con il patrocinio del Comune di Balestrate (Pa) e della Pro Loco, avrà luogo presso […]
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Il cappero di Pantelleria
Data:2011-07-15 09:01:14
Description:Cari amici da più di un anno Sorsetti è stato trascurato… faccio ammenda e trovo del tempo per scrivere di un prodotto che ha una lunga tradizione nella terra nella quale mi trovo, l’isola di Pantelleria. Il Cappero (Capparis Spinosa L.) così come lo conosciamo è un bocciolo fiorale, prima che si dischiuda il bellissimo […]
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Il ?making of? del vino: dall?acino alla mescita
Data:2010-04-10 16:49:29
Description:Ho trovato (grazie ad Andrea Borruso) su FollowingData questo gustoso filmato animato, relaizzato dal Desiner  ?Tiago Cabaço, che ripercorre (quasi un “making of” cinematografico) le fasi della produzione del vino. Mi è piaciuto perché è molto diretto, semplice e creativo. Così in attesa che la nostra inviata a Verona ci relazioni su questa edizione del […]
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Il trentino ci vizia un pò
Data:2010-03-30 16:46:32
Description:Ben riuscita ed elegante la serata Trentino Wine 2010 organizzata ieri, 29 Marzo  all’ Hotel Villa Igiea di Palermo. Nell’accogliente sala “Belle Epoque”, erano tante le cantine che offrivano vini internazionali e autoctoni, grappe d’eccellenza, bollicine, formaggi e le fantastiche mele della Val di Non. Noi Di Sorsetti abbiamo accettato di buon grado l’invito e […]
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I vini del Trentino qui in Sicilia?
Data:2010-03-23 14:19:05
Description:Chiediamo scusa ai nostri lettori per il lungo silenzio di Sorsetti, ma impegni di lavoro e familiari ci hanno distratto per un pò… Riprendiamo ad occuparci delle nostre passioni con l’indicazione di un evento che potrebbe essere gradito ai più, i vini del Trentino arrivano a Palermo! Un’occasione da non perdere, sarà interessante degustare il […]
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MASV ?La cooperazione vitivinicola in Sicilia Aspetti economico-aziendali?
Data:2009-07-24 16:31:00
Description:Interessante il lavoro del prof. Torcivia, presidente del comitato coordinatore del Master MASV (Manager delle Aziende del Settore Vitivinicolo)  sulla situazione delle Cooperative vitivinicole siciliane, un osservatorio di sicuro interesse per tutto il settore, in quanto non ci sono dati così aggiornati sulle cantine sociali.  Verrà presentato giorno 30 Luglio 2009, alle ore 16,00 presso […]
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Una e-mail da Marco Bolasco?
Data:2009-06-15 17:06:53
Description:MARCO BOLASCO LASCIA IL GAMBERO ROSSO Curatore della guida ?Ristoranti d?Italia? e della guida ?Low cost?, autore di punta del Gambero Rosso Channel, dopo 13 anni di collaborazione Bolasco si dimette: ?Non posso fare altrimenti, non condivido le scelte editoriali e organizzative della nuova proprietà. Non ritrovo più il progetto culturale del Gambero Rosso che […]
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Frappato di Valle dell?Acate, il nostro assaggio!
Data:2009-05-26 15:45:02
Description:Il team di Sorsetti qualche giorno fa, ha assaggiato volentieri il frappato dell’azienda Valle dell’Acate. FRAPPATO Un vino dal colore rosso rubino, limpido e trasparente, abbastanza consistente con i profumi tipici di questo vitigno. Al naso si presenta un vino abbastanza intenso con profumi primari, si sente la frutta rossa soprattutto il lampone ed ha […]
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Brioches fatta in casa?roba d?altri tempi!!!
Data:2009-05-19 15:35:59
Description:Cari amici di seguito la ricetta della zia della briochès fatta in casa… vi avverto, indossate una magliettina con maniche corte stile “pizzaiolo” perchè impastarla è paragonabile a un’ora di palestra ad alto ritmo! Ingredienti: Per la brioches farina gr 500 uova 2 (uno intero e un rosso) zucchero 2 cucchiai sale 2 prese lievito […]
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Di Vino & Cibo

Chimichanga de carne
Data:2008-06-30 13:33:13
Description:Il chimichanga de carne (saccottino di carne) è un altro piatto della cucina messicana e tex-mex. Questa ricetta di chimichanga è con carne di manzo, ma viene ottimo anche con il pollo. Inoltre, si può anche decidere di aggiungere peperoni e pancetta (soprattutto se scegliete la variante di chimichanga con il pollo). Ecco comunque la ricetta [...]
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Il chimichanga de carne (saccottino di carne) è un altro piatto della cucina messicana e tex-mex.

Questa ricetta di chimichanga è con carne di manzo, ma viene ottimo anche con il pollo. Inoltre, si può anche decidere di aggiungere peperoni e pancetta (soprattutto se scegliete la variante di chimichanga con il pollo).

Ecco comunque la ricetta del chimichanga di carne.

Ingredienti per 4 persone:
4 tortillas di grano di 24 cm di diametro
1 scatola di fagioli borlotti
300 gr di controfiletto di manzo
1 litro di brodo di carne
2 pomodori
8 cucchiai di salsa messicana
8 cucchiai di panna da cucina
100 gr di formaggio tipo edamer
1 cipolla piccola
olio di arachidi
pepe
sale

Preparazione (1 ora + 45 min di cottura):
lessare il controfiletto nel brodo lasciandolo cuocere per quarantacinque minuti circa. Togliere la carne dal brodo e lawsciarla raffreddare, sfilacciarla, salare e pepare.
Distribuire al centro di ogni tortilla la carne, i fagioli, la salsa messicana, il formaggio tagliato a filetti e piegarla formando un saccottino.
Friggere i saccottini in abbondante olio e servire caldi decorando con la panna e filetti di formaggio.



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Sangria
Data:2008-06-16 12:34:04
Description:La sangria è una bevanda alcolica a base di vino e frutta di origine spagnola e portoghese. Inoltre, va servita fredda. Per il resto, non esiste una ricetta unica. La sangria è un drink che viene fatto molto con l’ispirazione, mettendo un po’ di questo e un po’ di quello. Una versione base (che quindi [...]
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La sangria è una bevanda alcolica a base di vino e frutta di origine spagnola e portoghese. Inoltre, va servita fredda. Per il resto, non esiste una ricetta unica. La sangria è un drink che viene fatto molto con l’ispirazione, mettendo un po’ di questo e un po’ di quello.

Una versione base (che quindi lascia ampio spazio all’improvvisazione) può essere quella che segue.

Ingredienti:
- 1 bottiglia di vino rosso (di qualità, se volete una sangria all’altezza delle aspettative!)
- 2 arance
- 2 limoni
- 2 pesche
- 1 cucchiaino di zucchero
- soda (o gassosa), circa 25 cl

Procedimento:
spremete una arancia ed un limone e versate il succo in una grossa coppa o un’ampia caraffa. Tagliate invece a fettine sottili l’altra arancia e l’altro limone. Mettete anche queste fettine nella coppa. Tagliate le pesche a pezzetti e mettete anche questi nella coppa. Versate anche il vino e aggiungete lo zucchero. A questo punto, mescolate un po’ il tutto e mettete in frigo per diverse ore (la sangria deve essere fredda!).
Prima di servire, aggiungete la soda e del ghiaccio.

Come detto, questa è una versione base (molto base) della sangria. Spesso nella sangria si trovano anche altri ingredienti, come chiodi di garofano, cannella, vaniglia, qualche superalcolico (gin, cointreau, rhum, brandy, vodka, etc…), altra frutta (mele, pere, etc.).

Inoltre, in alcune zone della Spagna esiste anche una versione fatta con vino bianco anziché rosso e prende il nome di sangria blanca.

Non esistendo una ricetta ufficiale, è chiaro che un ingrediente chiave diventa l’ispirazione del momento. L’unica cosa davvero importante da tenere a mente è che tutti gli ingredienti (a partire dal vino, ovviamente) devono essere di qualità. Con questo non dico che vada usato del Barolo, ovviamente. Però evitate vini da 1€ al litro, ecco ;)

In particolare, vi consiglio un rosso abbastanza corposo: aglianico, cannonau, primitivo, etc.



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Enchiladas
Data:2008-06-14 07:45:24
Description:L’enchilada è un tipico piatto della cucina messicana e tex-mex. Enchilada significa “in chili”. Ed infatti, ingrediente fondamentale è una salsa (chiamata, guarda un po’, salsa enchilada) che può essere preparata in modi leggermente differenti. In sostanza, è comunque una salsa fatta con peperoncino secco macinato e salsa di pomodoro (oltre che altri ingredienti come [...]
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L’enchilada è un tipico piatto della cucina messicana e tex-mex.

Enchilada significa “in chili”. Ed infatti, ingrediente fondamentale è una salsa (chiamata, guarda un po’, salsa enchilada) che può essere preparata in modi leggermente differenti. In sostanza, è comunque una salsa fatta con peperoncino secco macinato e salsa di pomodoro (oltre che altri ingredienti come aglio, cipolle etc).

Vediamo velocemente una ricetta per la salsa enchilada che useremo poi per un paio di varianti di enchiladas.

Pelare e tritare finemente due piccole cipolle e due spicchi d’aglio.
In un apposito contenitore, unire 250 gr di polpa di pomodoro, due cucchiai di farina bianca, 20 gr di paprica dolce macinata, 1 cucchiaino di cumino macinato, un po’ di pepe nero e frullare fino ad ottenere una salsa omogenea.
In una casseruola, scaldare qualche cucchiaio d’olio extravergine d’oliva, unire il trito di cipolla e aglio e fare rosolare. Aggiungere poi il composto freullato, aggiungere un litro di brodo di pollo e cuocere a fuoco lento per circa tre quarti d’ora.

Preparata la salsa, vediamo come usarla partendo dalle enchiladas de queso (ovvero, con il formaggio).

Preparare le tortillas di mais. In una ciotola mescolare 200 gr di formaggio fresco (a vostra scelta) con 50 gr di formaggio tipo edamer.
Pulire 4 cipollotti e tagliarli finemente. Unirli al formaggio e condire con sale e pepe.
Accendere il forno a 180 gradi. Intanto scaldare qualche cucchiaio d’olio extravergine d’oliva in una padella e passarci velocemente le tortillas da entrambi i lati.
Prendere le tortillas, spalmarci sopra la salsa enchilada e cospargere con metà del formaggio aromatizzato in precedenza. Arrotolare le tortillas e sistemarle in una teglia unta d’olio. Ricoprire con salsa enchilada e il resto del formaggio.
Cuocere in forno per circa venti minuti, finché il formaggio non sarà ben fuso e facendo attenzione che le enchiladas non si secchino troppo.

Vediamo infine una variante famosa: le enchiladas con pollo.
Lessare due petti di pollo e tagliarli molto finemente. Tritare due cipollotti ed unirli al pollo. Condire con sale, pepe e coriandolo tritato. Riempire le tortillas con il ripieno ed arrotolarle. Coprire poi con salsa enchilada e con formaggi tipo edamer tagliato a fettine. Mettere in forno per circa venti minuti.



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Una semplice torta di mele
Data:2008-06-03 22:04:20
Description:Noi inventiamo dolci sofisticati ed invece le persone vogliono una semplice torta di mele, magari fatta come la faceva la nostra nonnina, naturale e profumata.
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Sul nostro blog, maisazi.com, pubblichiamo tanto ricette, spesso proponendo dolci e creme. Noi ci diamo da fare per inventare nuove proposte, ma alla fine scopriamo che le persone vogliono qualcosa di semplice, come la torta di mele di Gioi e quella di copertina75, sempre alle mele.

Queste due ricette, da poco pubblicate, sono tra le pagine più visitate del nostro blog, assieme alla Torta Caprese, che ha la palma di pagina più letta in assoluto. Segnale evidente di come si orientino i gusti dei nostri utenti e monito per chi sta ai fornelli.

Giusto sperimentare, quindi, ma ricordiamoci anche delle tradizioni e dei ricordi che abbiamo della nostra fanciullezza. A volte una torta è importante non in quanto buona, ma perché si porta dietro un ricordo importante, un momento felice, un giorno di festa, un traguardo giovanile raggiunto.

In questo caso, poi, la semplicità è massima. Le due torte di mele proposte da Gioi e copertina75 sono ai limiti del minimalismo, ma piacciono sempre. Io non sto a ripetervi le ricette, dato che potete facilmente leggerle sul blog alle pagine che vi ho indicato.

Se avete voglia, preparatele con qualche variante, comunicandoci poi il risultato. In particolare, provate ad aggiungere qualche ingrediente che estenda i profumi, che in un dolce non sono mai troppi. Potreste anche pensare a qualche altro ingrediente corollario che completi la mela o faccia contrasto con essa. Non scostatevi troppo dalla ricetta, però, perché la snaturereste.



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Crêpes salate
Data:2008-06-03 14:55:15
Description:Trovo che il bello delle crêpes sia il fatto che ci si può sbizzarrire in un numero impressionante di ricette (come con la pizza, per intenderci). Per questo motivo, voglio proporre una serie di spunti per farcire le crêpes, fermo restando che l’unico limite è la fantasia (suvvia, un altro ce lo imponiamo: oggi parliamo [...]
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Trovo che il bello delle crêpes sia il fatto che ci si può sbizzarrire in un numero impressionante di ricette (come con la pizza, per intenderci). Per questo motivo, voglio proporre una serie di spunti per farcire le crêpes, fermo restando che l’unico limite è la fantasia (suvvia, un altro ce lo imponiamo: oggi parliamo solo di crêpes salate).

Per seguire questi suggerimenti, tengo sempre presente questa ricetta per fare le crêpes, ma quando ci sono ingredienti che devono avere il tempo di fondere è necessario assicurarsi di cuocere per bene la crêpe su un lato, e appena viene girata sull’altro lato va disposto l’ingrediente.

Crêpes con cotto e scamorza affumicata
Questo abbinamento è davvero tanto banale quanto delizioso. Assicuratevi di tagliare la scamorza in fettine molto sottili e disponetele sul lato della crêpe appena la girate sull’altro lato. Prima di piegare la crêpe in due, aggiungete anche il prosciutto cotto.

Crêpes con speck, gorgonzola e rucola
Il gorgonzola si ammorbidisce abbastanza velocemente. Siccome speck e rucola non vanno cotti, aggiungete gli ingredienti quando manca poco alla fine della preparazione. In alternativa, potete anche preparare le crêpe completamente e, dopo averle riempite con gorgonzola, speck e rucola, disporle in una pirofila e scaldarle in forno, con un po’ di burro fuso sopra.

Crêpes con prosciutto crudo e mozzarella
Il prosciutto crudo deve restare crudo e la mozzarella deve avere il tempo di fondere, quindi o tagliate la mozzarella in fette molto sottili o addirittura la sminuzzate/sbriciolate.

Crêpes ricotta e spinaci
Per questo abbinamento, ovviamente gli spinaci vanno prima lessati e poi ben mischiati con la ricotta.

Crêpes ai formaggi
Qui sbizzarritevi con un bel mix di formaggi come fontina, gorgonzola, emmentaler. Ma dato che il formaggio deve avere il tempo di fondere per bene, anche qui è preferibile passare in forno le crêpes disposte in una pirofila.

Altre idee per crêpes salate?



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Tartare di tonno con mela, cetriolo e lime
Data:2008-05-21 22:10:52
Description: Una ricettina semplice, molto fresca e nel contempo raffinata. Il tonno, che è l’ingrediente essenziale, deve essere freschissimo. Ingredienti 2 fette di tonno rosso siciliano freschissimo 1 Mela verde Granny Smith 1 Cetriolo 10 cucchiai di olio extra vergine d’oliva 2 lime Fior di Sale di Pirano Pepe di Sechuan Preparazione Sbucciamo il cetriolo a dadini, priviamo la mela dei semi e tagliamo entrambi a dadini [...]
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Tartare di tonno con mela e cetriolo
Una ricettina semplice, molto fresca e nel contempo raffinata.
Il tonno, che è l’ingrediente essenziale, deve essere freschissimo.

Ingredienti

Preparazione

Sbucciamo il cetriolo a dadini, priviamo la mela dei semi e tagliamo entrambi a dadini molto piccoli.
Con un coltello da chef battiamo il tonno, riducendolo a tartare.
In un bicchiere facciamo una citronette con l’olio, il succo dei lime, il sale e il pepe.
In una terrina, mischiamo tutti gli ingredienti e, con l’aiuto di un coppapasta, impiattiamo la tartare, decorandola con due scorzette di lime arricciate.
I vini che più si prestano sono quelli lievemente acidi con bouquet floreale. Un’ottima opzione è l’Etna Bianco (carricante) oppure anche un Fiano di Avellino.



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La noce moscata
Data:2008-05-20 11:40:26
Description:Un macina noce moscata professionale e bello da portare in tavola o da utilizzare davanti agli amici. Che gran fugurone!
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La foto del macina noce moscata della Ad Hoc.Quanti di voi usano la noce moscata? Io spesso, o almeno ogni volta penso possa starci bene. Questa adorabile spezia mi sembra che spesso sia utilizzata solo nelle solite ricette: quando si fa la besciamella, in alcuni dolci oppure quando si fanno le polpette o i tortellini.

Questa spezia originaria dell’Indonesia, con il suo inebriante profumo dovuto alla presenza di un olio aromatico, può donare ai cibi delle note veramente particolari.

Una ricettina veloce, in cui la noce moscata dà un notevole contributo in termini di esperienza olfattiva è il mango nello stagno. Si taglia il mango a pezzi non troppo piccoli, lo si mette in una ciotola e gli si versa sopra una parte di aperol, una di ginger ed infine si grattuccia a piacere (io tendo ad abbondare) la noce moscata.

Se mentre preparate questa simpatica e voloce, oltre che gustosissima, ricetta avete degli amici con voi, farete una magnifica figura se macinerete la noce moscata con un macinino professionale molto carino. Penseranno che siete dei veri cuochi :p Provare per credere!

Sto parlando del macina noce moscata della Ad Hoc, che potete acquistare su Granshop.it.



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Ricetta delle Crêpes
Data:2008-05-19 14:14:30
Description:La crêpe è una antica ricetta francese fatta con pochi e semplici ingredienti come farina, uova, latte, sale, zucchero e burro. È un preparato squisito sia salato sia dolce (in questo secondo caso, si aggiunge agli ingredienti anche la vanillina). Vediamo la ricetta per fare le crêpes. In successivi articoli la useremo per alcune delizie. Considerate [...]
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La crêpe è una antica ricetta francese fatta con pochi e semplici ingredienti come farina, uova, latte, sale, zucchero e burro. È un preparato squisito sia salato sia dolce (in questo secondo caso, si aggiunge agli ingredienti anche la vanillina).

Vediamo la ricetta per fare le crêpes. In successivi articoli la useremo per alcune delizie. Considerate però che questa ricetta delle crêpes semplici, senza prevedere alcun ingrediente con il quale farcirle, potrebbe subire qualche lieve modifica in fase di preparazione. La cosa bella è che, una volta capita la procedura per fare le crêpes, l’unico requisito richiesto è la fantasia.

Ingredienti:
250 gr di farina
500 ml di latte
sale q.b.
burro q.b. (circa 50 gr dovrebbero bastare)

Preparazione:
in una coppa ampia e con bordi sufficientemente alti, mettete 250 gr di farina, un pizzico di sale e mezzo litro di latte. Mescolare accuratamente finché non ottenete un composto assolutamente fluido e privo di grumi. Potete aiutarvi con un frullatore ad immersione o una frusta, se preferite. A parte, sbattete per bene 3 uova e unitele poi all’impasto precedente. Mescolare ancora con cura e lasciar riposare la pastella per almeno mezz’ora.

Prendete un padellino antiaderente con bordi molto bassi e mettetelo sul fuoco con fiamma abbastanza bassa. Mettete un po’ di burro a fondere e poi versate un mestolo di pastella (o comunque la quantità di pastella sufficiente per riuscire giusto a ricoprire tutto il fondo della padella). Distribuitela su tutta la base della padella e lasciate per qualche minuto a cuocere. Quando il lato della crêpe sarà dorato, giratela e fatela cuocere anche sull’altro lato.

Ripetete l’operazione per ciascuna crêpe aggiungendo sempre un po’ di burro nel padellino (con le quantità di ingredienti qui riportate verranno fuori all’incirca una dozzina di crêpes - dipende ovviamente anche dalla dimensione della padella).

A questo punto, le crêpes sono pronte. Sul cosa farci di preciso, vediamo nei prossimi giorni di dare alcuni suggerimenti, sia per crêpes salate sia per crêpes dolci. Teniamo qui la ricetta della base per i riferimenti futuri (ultimamente mi sono scatenato con le crêpes, quindi conto di riuscire a fare più post con parecchi spunti).



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Wine Time
Data:2008-05-16 08:29:54
Description:La scorsa settimana ero a Roma per alcuni impegni di lavoro. Uno di questi impegni si è concluso con aperitivo cena e digestivo al Wine Time, wine bar e ristorante vicino a Castel Sant’Angelo. Questo bel locale si trova infatti in Piazza Pasquale Paoli. Come aperitivo, ho preso un paio di Negroni. I miei compagni di [...]
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La scorsa settimana ero a Roma per alcuni impegni di lavoro. Uno di questi impegni si è concluso con aperitivo cena e digestivo al Wine Time, wine bar e ristorante vicino a Castel Sant’Angelo. Questo bel locale si trova infatti in Piazza Pasquale Paoli.

Come aperitivo, ho preso un paio di Negroni. I miei compagni di merende (Alessio, Angelo e Elena: i primi due sono tra i coautori di Drink a drink, Elena invece ogni tanto scrive anche qui su Di vino & cibo) invece si sono scolati un paio di Americani (che Bacco abbia pietà di loro).

Quando Alessio ed Elena ci hanno lasciati per rientrare in Toscana, Angelo mi ha chiesto se volessimo cenare lì o cambiare ristorante. Dato che al Wine Time avevo cenato un anno fa (anche in quell’occasione, Angelo presente) e quindi ricordavo che si mangiava molto bene, ci siamo fermati.

E così, tra un bel tagliere di formaggi e salumi ed un filetto di manzo (rigorosamente grondante sangue), ci siamo riempiti la pancia e sollazzati lo spirito (e magari Angelo nei commenti mi ricorderà che vino ci siamo scolati…).

Per finire in bellezza la serata, due bicchieri di Macallan Fine Oak 18.

Se volete leggere qualcos’altro sul Wine Time, potete leggere un post scritto da Angelo su Drink a drink.

Per finire, le informazioni utili:
Wine Time
Piazza Pasquale Paoli, 15 - 00186 - ROMA
Telefono e fax: (+39) 06.68.75.706
E-mail: wine@winetime.it
Chiuso la domenica.
Orario di apertura: dalle 12.00 alle 02.00



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Serata carne al Wine Enoteca di Lonigo
Data:2008-05-02 09:35:23
Description:Il 15 maggio 2008 al Wine Enoteca di Lonigo ci saranno i cuochi di maisazi.com per una serata basata sulla carne. Questo il menu proposto ai clienti: Filetto di maiale alla frutta - alcune delicate fette al profumo di frutta e mosto al cioccolato. Tagliata di controfiletto all’estratto di fichi - strisce di manzo scottate e legate [...]
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Il 15 maggio 2008 al Wine Enoteca di Lonigo ci saranno i cuochi di maisazi.com per una serata basata sulla carne.

Questo il menu proposto ai clienti:

Filetto di maiale alla frutta - alcune delicate fette al profumo di frutta e mosto al cioccolato.

Tagliata di controfiletto all’estratto di fichi - strisce di manzo scottate e legate da un denso e gustoso estratto di fichi artigianale.

Filetto di manzo nello stagno - un pregiato tournedos cotto in Aperol e Ginger, impreziosito da un pomodorino alla griglia con Sale di Cipro.

Scamone con riduzione di Aceto Balsamico - un medaglione di manzo arabescato da un filo di dolce Aceto Balsamico ridotto e Sale dell’Himalaya.

Il Wine Enoteca è in via Garibaldi 25 a Lonigo. Per prenotarvi, se siete in zona, telefonate al +39 0444-834856.

P.S.
Estratto di fichi e mosto selvatico sono stati acquistati su www.inari.it (che qui conosciamo bene) :)



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Benito's Wine Reviews

Dinner at Goldsmith's in Memphis, July 1, 1914
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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Writing About Barefoot Wines for Nomacorc
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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2012 Salton Intenso Cabernet Franc
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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Twig Wine for Nomacorc
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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Markus Wine Co.
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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Repost: The Mint Julep
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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Interview with Susannah Gold
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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My April Fools' Day Posts
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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2013 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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St. Patrick's Day Pairings for Snooth
Data:1970-01-01 00:00:00
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