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Mondo Di Vino
Mondo Di Vino





[04/21/2024, 10:44] Vinitaly 2024 ? What went down (and what?s going up)

Luca Zaia (L) President of the Veneto Region
It?s been a few days since Vinitaly 2024 ended. Here are some random thoughts about the Italian wine trade show that is held for four days in April in Verona.

First off, those with a stake in such things will declare ?The 2024 Vinitaly was the best ever!? and they will back it up with formulated statistics that claim ?attendance was up 4% from the previous year!? And that will be true. From 93,000 people in 2023 to 97,000 in 2024 were estimated to have attended. Now it doesn?t necessarily mean they break down the attendance if the same person attended all four days and was counted as one. Possibly, the persons who entered through the turnstiles daily were aggregated individually.


However ? exhibitors ? folks who paid to show their products, went in 2023 from 4,500 to 4,300 in 2024, which would mean a slight decrease of 4% from the previous year.

As far as exhibitors (wineries, importers, people who had exhibition rooms/space), the high-point year was 2019, when 4,600 exhibitors attended. Not all that different from 2023.

Foreign attendance was up from 2023 in 2024 (30,070 vs. 29,600) but nowhere near the halcyon years of 2014-2016, when 55,000 foreign attendees were recorded.

my random numbers over the years

Compare 1991 attendance numbers, 80,000, with more recent 2022, 88,000. Definitely an impact from the pandemic. There was no Vinitaly in 2020, and the special edition held in 2021 (October 17-19) was more of a (premature) celebration than a trade show. There was some limited B2B activity as well. But it couldn?t really be manifested as a traditional Vinitaly.

From the numbers I have tracked since 1991, the high-point of attendance was in 2014 and 2015, when 150,000 people were said to have attended.

But 150,000 versus 97,000 is a bit of a different story. That?s a 35% decrease. I?m sure Covid and the worldwide pandemic played into these figures, as well as global instability with regards to war and peace.

Inflation, higher prices and the change to a more virtual meeting environment also helped to erode those numbers. Also, spin off shows, from nearby Summa to VinNatur, helped to eat away at the Vinitaly numbers. That?s not necessarily a bad thing. But it does spread out the folks who have particular interests that these shows focus on and address more acutely.


That said, folks who reported back to me said Vinitaly 2024, for them, was one of the best they had ever been to ? and this from seasoned Vinitaly-goers.

A word about trade shows: It isn?t just the wine world that is seeing a downturn in trade show participation. The watch world (which I also track) and other large industries are pivoting from the expense-bloated showcases in favor of more virtual gatherings. Economics plays into this, as well as logistics. But during Covid the world learned that they could get much of the information they needed from a screen. Now, it is impossible to taste wine virtually, but the world trend is people drinking less alcohol also plays into this decrease in actual physical involvement.

My first Vinitaly was 40 years ago, and it opened a world unto me that I didn?t know of. Imagine everyone who is involved in the Italian wine industry, which I adored then, under one roof (or in the case of Vinitaly, many roofs). It was a dream. It still is for many people, old and new. The energy of thousands of souls rowing together is a fantastic feeling. As well, to see people in one place without having to drive all over Italy is a boon to the time-deprived sommelier, wholesaler, p.r. person, retailer or importer. Read my lips: Vinitaly is good.


Well, most of it is. There is still some underlying corruption and mysterious allocating of European funds with regards to Vinitaly and Veronafiere that are winding their way around the courts in Italy

?        https://corrieredelveneto.corriere.it/notizie/verona/cronaca/24_febbraio_14/truffa-del-vino-coi-fondi-ue-veronafiere-vuole-patteggiare-per-la-frode-milionaria-a-bruxelles-9ee226e4-00ee-4e80-9214-4596bee16xlk.shtml

?        https://corrieredelveneto.corriere.it/notizie/verona/cronaca/23_aprile_19/verona-vino-e-fondi-dall-ue-truffa-milionaria-i-pm-europei-chiedono-6-rinvii-a-giudizio-d9c41fe2-de05-11ed-8e0e-82e8b32702b9.shtml

?       https://www.repubblica.it/il-gusto/2024/01/23/news/vino_fondi_ue_laccusa_di_frode_scuote_il_mondo_del_vino-421963782/   

But that?s for the judges and courts to deliberate upon. Eventually the corrupt elements that hover around Vinitaly will be exposed and prosecuted, hopefully. There?s a lot of money in and around Italian wine and it doesn?t just attract the wine lovers and enthusiasts. Unfortunately, it also draws the con men (and women) to their juicy nectars as well. But, as one Italy watcher noted, ?The powers that be hate scrutiny and embarrassment.? Indeed. 


That said, ultimately what propels Italian wine is greater market share and increases in sales. And while we?ve all been through the Covid hiccup, that seems to be rebounding for Italian wine. It still is a value, and a quality wine. People feel comfort in Italian food and the wine accompanies those emotions. So, we?re in for a good run in the future for Italian wine, this I am certain of. Now, we all just need to do our part. And it starts with opening up some bottles and proceeding.

 

wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[04/19/2024, 10:30] Ristorante SCATTO @ Caff? San Carlo ? Costardi Bros ? Gallerie d?Italia ? Torino (TO)

Scatto, creato dai Costardi Bros a Torino, ? un ristorante fine dining che fonde l’arte culinaria con il tema della fotografia, ispirandosi al nuovo museo Gallerie D’Italia di Intesa Sanpaolo. Questo spazio, dal design contemporaneo, rappresenta un “scatto” avanti nell’evoluzione gastronomica, offrendo un’esperienza unica che unisce sapori tradizionali italiani e tecniche moderne. Rinomato per la sua cucina innovativa, Scatto si distingue per la presentazione raffinata dei piatti e per un servizio impeccabile, rendendolo un punto di riferimento per gli amanti del buon cibo. L’ambiente, che riflette il linguaggio della fotografia, completa un’esperienza culinaria stimolante e indimenticabile a Torino.

La squadra:

Chef Patron?Christian e Manuel Costardi???Costardi Bros

Sous chef Daniele Amadio

Pastry chef?Andrea Celeste Allione

Ma?tre e Sommelier?Mattia Moro

Bartender Fabrizio Abrescia

Pan patate, baccal? mantecato e anduja piemontese un inizio che racconta le anime del progetto partendo dallo lievitato passando al Re baccal? ingrediente preferito da Chef Costardi e l?anduja l?ingrediente preferito di Daniele declinato solo con ingredienti Piemontesi.

Iniziamo subito con gli amuse-bouche, una deliziosa introduzione al pasto, che comprendono tre distinti assaggi che promettono di stuzzicare il palato.?Insieme, questi amuse-bouche creano un’esperienza culinaria equilibrata e invitante.

Accompagnamo il tutto con lo Champagne Ch?teau de Bligny “Grande R?serve Brut” ? un’espressione raffinata dell’artigianato della Champagne. Questa cuv?e, con la sua effervescenza delicata e un colore giallo paglierino brillante, racchiude l’eleganza e la complessit? dei migliori vini della regione. Il bouquet ? un’armonia di frutti maturi e note tostate, mentre il palato ? equilibrato con una vivace acidit? che promette un finale persistente e soddisfacente. La presenza della bottiglia e del suo etichettamento classico evoca un senso di tradizione e lusso, rendendola una scelta pregiata per celebrazioni o per un semplice brindisi di piacere.

Ostrica alla Mugnaia : ostrica cotta con la sua acqua e acqua gasata olio al prezzemolo e gel di limone salato.

Le ostriche alla mugnaia, un’elegante rivisitazione francese, esaltano il sapore del mare con l’aggiunta di piccole sfere di burro chiarificato, a contrasto con il limone e prezzemolo, senza sovrastare la loro naturale freschezza. Queste prelibate ostriche francesi, servite su un letto estratto di prezzemolo, offrono una perfetta armonia di gusto, unendo la ricchezza del burro alla vivacit? del limone. La preparazione mette in luce la qualit? superiore delle ostriche, rendendole un antipasto raffinato o un piatto celebrativo che fonde sapientemente il mare con l’arte culinaria francese.

Insalata di mare : ?la nostra idea di insalata di mare, la Sicilia velata da un foglio di Calamaro e tutti i pesci che per noi devono comporre l? insalata di mare

L’insalata di mare, arricchita da un velo di calamaro, ? un’opera d’arte culinaria che unisce la freschezza dei frutti di mare – gamberetti, cozze, polpo e calamari – in una presentazione visivamente affascinante. Il sottile velo di calamaro che copre l’insalata non solo impreziosisce il piatto con un tocco creativo ma arricchisce ogni assaggio con un’intensa nota di mare. Servita fresca, questa insalata esalta l’equilibrio tra la dolcezza dei frutti di mare e l’acidit? di limone e olio extra vergine di oliva, con un tocco finale di erbe fresche. Perfetta con la sua eleganza, L’insalata di mare rappresenta una fusione tra tradizione e innovazione, celebrando i sapori del mare in un incontro di gusto e estetica.

Scam_pho : un viaggio in Vietnam partendo dagli spring roll che vengono servite con le zuppe pho, scampo che fa un piccolo passaggio di salamoia, verdure croccanti una voglia di lattuga accompagnato da kimchi Piemontese .

Lo Scam_pho unisce l’eleganza degli involtini vietnamiti con la prelibatezza dello scampo, avvolto in un involucro arricchito da foglie di lattuga e verdure croccanti. Questa fusione crea un contrasto di texture e sapori, con la dolcezza dello scampo che si sposa perfettamente con il croccante vegetale. La salsa kimchi accanto aggiunge una nota piccante e fermentata, equilibrando il piatto con intensit?. Questo piatto rappresenta una sofisticata esplorazione della cucina fusion, dove tradizione e innovazione convergono in un’esperienza gustativa ricca e armoniosa.

Accompagnamo questo quartetto di antipasti dal tema “sequenza di Mare” con un Tibaldi Arneis 2022, un vino bianco che riflette l’eleganza e la freschezza del vitigno Arneis, coltivato nelle rigogliose colline del Roero in Piemonte, Italia. La vendemmia del 2022 si distingue per la sua vivacit? aromatica, con note di frutta fresca come la pera e sfumature floreali che si aprono al palato. In bocca, la sua acidit? ben bilanciata e la struttura armoniosa portano a un finale pulito e persistente, segno distintivo della maestria enologica di Tibaldi. Questo vino ? un esemplare versatile, ideale per accompagnare piatti leggeri o da sorseggiare come aperitivo. Con la sua giovent?, il Tibaldi Arneis 2022 promette di evolvere elegantemente anche nei prossimi anni.

Polpo e chorizo : Spagna, cialda croccante farcita di polpo chorizo finita con Ajoli e paprica

Il piatto polpo e chorizo fonde la delicatezza del polpo, cotto a perfezione fino a raggiungere una tenerezza sublime, con la vivace intensit? del chorizo affumicato. La dolcezza del polpo si amalgama armoniosamente con il piccante del chorizo, creando un contrasto gustativo arricchito dalla cremosit? dell’ajoli, che aggiunge un tocco di morbidezza e un leggero sapore aglio. Questa combinazione ? servita su un letto di patate morbide o croccanti verdure di stagione, offrendo un bilanciamento perfetto di texture e sapori. Il piatto si distingue per la sua capacit? di unire la tradizione marittima con accenti terrestri in un abbraccio culinario che soddisfa il palato alla ricerca di esperienze sensoriali complete.

Ceviche : una foto in bianco e nero dove l?idea parte dalla Ceviche Peruviana mordendola in verticale si trova il colore della foto in bianco e nero

Il caviale in verticale si presenta come un piatto dalla struttura innovativa e dall?estetica sofisticata. Il caviale ? accuratamente stratificato, mostrando le sue sfere lucide in un arrangiamento sovrapposto che ne esalta la visibilit? e la texture. Racchiuso in uno scrigno, fin dal primo morso, il piatto offre contrasti raffinati al palato, aggiungendo un sapore che permette al gusto ricco e salmastro del caviale di brillare, trasformando ogni assaggio in un’esperienza gustativa complessa e memorabile.

-Diversamente tonnato: un tributo al vitello tonnato un back to the future piatto nato nel progetto di consulenza di Edit tornato in men? per raccontare il lavoro il vitello tonnato.

Il vitello tonnato al cucchiaio rappresenta una sofisticata reinterpretazione del tradizionale piatto piemontese, perfetto come antipasto elegante. La carne di vitello, cucinata con delicatezza, viene servita finemente tritata, posata su una base di salsa cremosa composta da tonno, maionese, acciughe, capperi e un tocco di limone. Questa versione ? ideale per un assaggio raffinato e pratico, presentata con eleganza per esaltare ogni singolo boccone.

-Cavolfiore a Bangkok: un cavolfiore Piemontese che diventa una spuma una salsa al curry verde polvere di caff?, cavolfiore crudo e un cavolfiore alla brace che racconta il mondo street food di Bangkok

Continuiamo il piatto “Cavolfiore a Bangkok” presenta una morbida crema di cavolfiore al centro, sapientemente insaporita con un tradizionale curry verde thailandese. Il gusto viene esaltato dalla polvere di foglie di cavolfiore e da un’inusuale ma intrigante spolverata di caff? del Myanmar, che aggiunge una dimensione terrosa e esotica. Sottili sfoglie di cavolfiore fresco aggiungono un tocco di croccantezza e freschezza al piatto, creando un’esperienza confortevole e deliziosamente complessa.

?

-Spaghetto? burro e miso

Ed eccoci arrivati allo spaghettone con burro e miso. Gli spaghetti sono esono presentati come una rosa, sottolineando l’approccio artistico della cucina. La salsa di miso, con i suoi due colori distinti, ? stata delicatamente distribuita attorno agli spaghetti. La spolverata di spezie rosse sopra conferisce un colore vivace che conferisce un sapore intenso e un tocco piccante, che contrasta splendidamente con il bianco puro del piatto sottostante. La semplicit? della presentazione punta a valorizzare gli ingredienti e i sapori complessi del piatto.

-Archivio gustativo: riso carnaroli con rag? di calamaretti, pat? di fegatini di pollo, limone salato e katsuobushi

Ed ecco fare la sua comparsa al banco il “Costardi’s Condensed ? Archivio Gustativo“, presentato nell’emblema della lattina iconica. Loro segno distintivo, i risotti creati dai fratelli Costardi vengono frequentemente serviti in lattine ispirate a quelle della Campbell?s.

Il “Risotto Archivio Gustativo” ? la sintesi dell’arte culinaria dello chef Christian Costardi e del suo team. Questo risotto, dal chicco perfettamente al dente e dalla cremosit? impeccabile, esala un aroma invitante che si ritrova pienamente al gusto. I Costardi celano gli ingredienti, sfidando gli ospiti a indovinarli: tra questi emergono il katsuobushi e i calamaretti, con una sorpresa carnosa che si rivela essere fegatini di coniglio, confermando l’intuizione dei degustatori.

-Risotto Zucca coniglio e Saba tradizione e sapore in un risotto crema di zucca rag? di coniglio, rafano un velo di zucca lucidato con la Saba

-Ombrina cima e bottarga : un bottone ripieno di cima ripassata, ombrina e polvere di bottarga

A seguire, il piatto “Ombrina, cime e bottarga” ? un esempio raffinato di cucina di mare con un tocco mediterraneo. L’ombrina, un pesce dal sapore delicato e dalla carne soda, ? la protagonista del piatto, cucinata in modo da esaltarne la freschezza e la texture. Accanto a questo, le cime di rapa, cotte fino a raggiungere quella perfetta consistenza croccante all’esterno e tenera all’interno, e servite per accompagnare e contrastare il gusto sottile del pesce. La bottarga aggiunge un tocco sapido e intensamente marino, completando il piatto con la sua consistenza granulosa e il suo colore vivace.?

Il “Borgogno Rivata Nebbiolo 2020” ? un vino rosso giovane che esprime le qualit? fresche e fruttate del vitigno Nebbiolo, con accenni di frutti di bosco e note floreali. Nonostante la sua giovent?, presenta la tipica struttura robusta e acidit? elevata del Nebbiolo, con tannini presenti ma potenzialmente pi? morbidi rispetto a quelli di annate pi? mature. La vinificazione tradizionale ha aggiunto sfumature legnose e vanigliate. Ideale con piatti ricchi, questo vino ha un buon potenziale di invecchiamento.

-Piccione arachidi e datteri. Piccione cotto in carcassa servito in il servizi. Wasabi per la parta balsamica, un viaggio del piccione da Vercelli al medio oriente Giappone e Turchia nella porta coscia pensata come un kebab il tutto accompagnato da un piccolo panettone arachidi e datteri.

Il piatto “Piccione, datteri, arachidi e wasabi” ? un connubio audace e cosmopolita di sapori e consistenze. Il piccione, un volatile la cui carne ? pregiata e ricca di gusto, ? cucinato in 3 consistenze? per esaltarne la tenerezza e il profilo aromatico intenso. Questo tipo di carne ? abbinato ai datteri che, con la loro dolcezza naturale e la consistenza morbida, creano un contrasto intrigante con il sapore pi? selvaggio del piccione. Le arachidi aggiungono una nota croccante e terrosa al piatto, offrendo un contrasto rispetto alla carne e ai datteri.?Infine, il wasabi, con il suo caratteristico pizzico pungente e fresco, introduce un elemento di sorpresa e vivacit? che pu? elevare e bilanciare il piatto, tagliando attraverso la ricchezza del piccione e l’intensit? dolce dei datteri.

Il piatto Carota, mandarino e liquirizia ? un connubio di sapori che spaziano dalla dolcezza terrosa delle carote alla fresca acidit? degli agrumi, fino alla profondit? quasi amara della liquirizia. La carota ? presentata cruda, mentre il mandarino porta vivacit? sia nel gusto che nel colore. La liquirizia aggiunge una nota di complessit?. Visivamente, il piatto seduce con la sua tavolozza di arancioni accesi e accenti neri, offrendo un’esperienza sensoriale completa che stimola sia il palato che la vista.

Il dessert Caco, cardamomo e yogurt greco unisce la dolcezza del caco maturo con il tocco speziato del cardamomo e la cremosit? dello yogurt greco. Il cardamomo aggiunge un contrasto esotico e leggermente piccante, mentre lo yogurt fornisce una base ricca e leggermente acidula che equilibra il dolce del frutto. Visivamente, il piatto ? accattivante, con il vivace arancione del caco che risalta sul bianco dello yogurt, impreziosito da una spolverata di cardamomo per un ulteriore contrasto di colori e sapori. Questa combinazione crea un dessert che ? tanto piacevole al palato quanto alla vista.

Lo Chateau de Ricaud Loupiac 2017 ? un vino dolce bianco di Bordeaux, caratterizzato da una blend di uve S?millon, Sauvignon Blanc e Muscadelle. Il processo di vinificazione arricchisce il vino di complessit?, con aromi di miele, agrumi canditi e spezie dolci. Questo vino si distingue per il suo equilibrio tra dolcezza e acidit?, offrendo un lungo finale persistente. ? perfetto come aperitivo o in abbinamento con dessert e formaggi erborinati, avendo anche un buon potenziale di invecchiamento.

E come ultima chicca, il piatto Castagna, pastinaca e whisky fonde sapori autunnali con un tocco elegante. Le castagne e le pastinache, entrambe dal gusto dolce e terroso, si abbinano perfettamente, creando una base morbida e ricca. L’introduzione del whisky aggiunge una nota affumicata e alcolica, elevando il piatto con una complessit? sorprendente.? Questa combinazione ? ideale per le stagioni pi? fredde, offrendo calore e profondit? di sapori.

E per concludere, caff? e piccole coccole finali…

CUCINA

La cucina dei Costardi Bros, rappresentata dal Caff? San Carlo e dal Ristorante Scatto, fonde innovazione e tradizione piemontese, come illustrato nei men? Disegno e Scatto Libero. Questa sinergia tra antico e moderno ? alimentata da tecniche all’avanguardia e l’uso di materie prime locali, offrendo piatti che sono radicati nella tradizione ma espansi verso nuove dimensioni culinarie. La brigata di cucina, competente e motivata, collabora strettamente per creare piatti autentici che spaziano dalle ricette schiette a quelle con tocchi orientali. Il men? Ritratto simboleggia questa collaborazione e l’esperienza condivisa. Nel complesso, la cucina di Scatto si distingue per il suo gusto autentico e diretto, catturando l’attenzione del commensale dall’inizio alla fine.

ACCOGLIENZA E SERVIZIO

L’accoglienza e il servizio eccellenti, si manifestano attraverso un personale caloroso e attento, che accoglie ogni ospite con un sorriso genuino e una cortesia impeccabile. I dettagli sono curati minuziosamente, dalla rapidit? nel soddisfare le richieste alla capacit? di anticipare le esigenze del cliente, garantendo un’esperienza personalizzata e memorabile. Ogni interazione ? pensata per far sentire gli ospiti valorizzati e ben curati, trasformando ogni visita in un’occasione speciale.

CONCLUSIONI

Nel vivace panorama culinario creato dai Costardi Bros, ogni piatto ? una narrazione audace che mira a toccare sia il cuore sia la mente con combinazioni di sapori inaspettati e coraggiosi. La sinergia tra intuizione culinaria e maestria tecnica si fonde armoniosamente con l’ambiente e il team, che, tra cucina e sala, lavora instancabilmente per soddisfare e sorprendere i clienti. Questo impegno si traduce in un’esperienza gastronomica che ? sia un viaggio che una scoperta continua, spinta dalla ricerca costante di nuove idee e dalla volont? di raccontare storie attraverso i sapori, riflettendo il dinamismo del mondo moderno.

INFORMAZIONI ? Ristorante Scatto

Piazza San Carlo, 156, 10123 Torino (TO)

Tel. +39 0110267460

Mail: info@costardibros.it

ORARI

Caff? San Carlo ? Caffetteria e bistrot

8:30 alle 20:30

SCAT_TO ? Ristorante fine dining
marted? – sabato dalle 12:30 alle 14:30 (business lunch da marted? a venerd?), dalle 19:30 alle 24:00 (offerta ristorante fine dining).?

Domenica 12.30-14.30 , 19.30-22.30

Chiusura ristorante: luned?

L'articolo Ristorante SCATTO @ Caff? San Carlo ? Costardi Bros ? Gallerie d?Italia ? Torino (TO) proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[04/14/2024, 19:43] My Brilliant Italy

My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante was made into a TV series. We?ve been watching it here on the island. I have been struck by how many places and themes hit home for me. In fact, I had a bit of an epiphany in its 3rd year. I don?t know how to accurately say it, but it was as if a confluence of memory and observation coupled with an ancestral energy. Like recognizing something I am at first seeing. Anyway, it really moved me to thinking about what it really means to be Italian and have Italian feelings. Especially in the wine world, where we witness all manner of people who position themselves (and their ?branded selves?) as experts, capable of influential consequences beyond themselves.

It is a bit folly to watch it. Meanwhile, swimming in this genetic/memory/observational soup over that last 50 or so years, I realize I have a unique picture of the Italy that has been presented to me. 60 trips, most for a week, some for months, some for extended weeks. 21 trips to Verona and Vinitaly! Nothing longer than three months. In and out. No full immersion for a year or more. But still, the impression has been made. My brilliant Italy has left an indelible mark on my soul and on my chromosomes.


I say this right now, because when I observe people as they are visiting Italy, for work or for pleasure, they seem to relate to a version of Italy that becomes unique to their experience. And inexperienced travelers might tend to conclude that the Italy that they are encountering is the same Italy for all of us. And from what I can tell, talking to other travelers and residents (of Italy), it ain?t necessarily so. There are thousands of Italy?s. So, for someone to exclaim that they now know Italy, because they made the tour of Rome-Florence-Venice-Amalfi Coast, or they made it to the top of Mt. Etna, or any number of singular adventures that might seem to define for one what Italy is ? it just isn?t. Or at least, it isn?t enough. It?s reminiscent of the story about the blind men and the elephant. Italy is bigger and more brilliant than any one person and their visions and theories of what it is in their mind.

And while I?m standing on top of the soap box, Italy isn?t just about food or wine or antiquities or architecture or art or music or romance or history. Italy is longer and wider than time and place. It is so much more than my little view of it. And yours too.

So, let that sink in and hopefully this little rant will compel you to rethink what Italy is in the larger scope of the universe of things. Yes, it is wonderful. Yes, it is romantic. Yes, the food and wine and art and music are incomparable. But know that there is a deeper, richer, more timeless Italy than anyone of us can imagine.

As Hamlet uttered, ?There are more things in Heaven and Earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.?

So, it is. 

 

 

? written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[04/12/2024, 09:45] Genova Wine Festival 2024, due o tre cose che so di lui


La seconda edizione del Genova Wine Festival, da qui in poi GWF, anno 2020, era bella che pronta a partire ma il lockdown ce l'ha levata di sotto il naso. Annullata, cancellata, non si fa. Tutto quel che ? successo dopo ? storia, ma ora che parlo di GWF 2024 non posso non iniziare con questo ricordo spiacevole. Un giorno studieranno questo incipit nelle scuole di scrittura creativa e lo indicheranno come esempio negativo: non iniziate un racconto con una menata. Quindi per emendarmi un po' da questo attacco respingente vi dico che succede adesso, ma a modo mio, per punti, elencando con attenzione le cose che non leggerete nei comunicati stampa. Che non cielo dicono.

Nota di stile: i link li metto tutti alla fine cos? se non vuoi sorbirti il pippone scrolla gi? in fondo.

Il Genova Wine Festival ? una figata

Nel panorama delle infinite rassegne enoiche questa ? una fiera su invito. Significa cio? che noi, il team di Papille Clandestine che organizza, ci siamo tolti lo sfizio di creare il nostro dream team degli espositori, scegliendo chi ci piace. Questa cosa ha creato infiniti guai per un motivo essenziale: le aziende eno che hanno successo e vendono tutto il prodotto senza alcuna fatica non fanno fiere. "Non ho vino. A che mi serve? La domenica riposo. Non ne ho voglia. Quel giorno ho judo":  normalmente ci hanno risposto cos?. Quindi li abbiamo implorati (alcuni anche moltissimo): per favore, siamo simpatici, siamo creativi, siamo umili, facciamo cose. Ha funzionato con una cinquantina di loro, che qui adesso ringrazio ancora, mentre a quelli che ci hanno risposto gne gne posso solo dire: vabb? tanto ci riproviamo l'anno prossimo. (Che a dirla tutta, veramente no, c'? pure qualcuno che ci siamo detti: "questo ? simpatico come un ausiliario del traffico e lo depenniamo forever". Sei forse tu, che leggi ora, quello? Eh, saperlo).

Papille Clandestine ? una macchina da guerra
L'associazione che organizza GWF si chiama Papille Clandestine ma nessuno la chiama cos?, ci chiamano tutti Papille Gustative e io ormai ci ho rinunciato a correggere, ragazzi cambiano nome che tanto usano quell'altro. Comunque sia l'associazione ? composta da una cupola di (circa) una dozzina di pazzi furiosi, quorum ego, ognuno dedito a uno o pi? aspetti che compongono una fiera del vino: il termine "logistica" non spiega niente, ci sono un milione di dettagli che vanno incastrati con precisione e i papilli (chiamiamoli cos? che faccio prima), durante innumerevoli riunioni operative nottetempo che manco i carbonari, sono esattamente i cavalieri che fecero l'impresa. Ogni dettaglio ha avuto il suo curatore, e ogni associato ha lavorato assai. Io per esempio mi sono occupato tra l'altro di laboratori (alcuni), eventi off GWF (alcuni) ma soprattutto una parte che ho amato molto, sognare a occhi aperti: "Fiorenzo chi chiameresti? - Ecco, io vorrei questo e quello". E poi via cos?.

La ricaduta sul territorio
Questo capoverso ha un titolo troppo serio, era meglio se lo cambiavo con uno cazzaro. Per? un po' ? vero, ci piaceva l'idea che la citt? risentisse in positivo di questa rassegna. Per questo ci sono numerosi eventi che collegano alla rassegna le realt? produttive cittadine (sto parlando come un assessore leghista, lo so, ora la pianto). Insomma ci sono queste serate in diversi ristoranti ed enoteche di citt? che comunque generano una vibe positivissima intorno al GWF. (Ho usato "vibe", ora sono a posto). Inoltre questa fiera consente l'accredito gratuito agli operatori, e signori miei questo succede a Genova, scusate ma mi pare rilevante. Di nuovo, ci piace accogliere gli enofili e ci piace avere un occhio di riguardo per quelli che fanno del vino il loro lavoro: come mi disse una volta un signore che stimo, "il vino si fa per venderlo".

E direi che basta, come post che annuncia "arriva il GWF 2024". Ci si vede il 4 e 5 maggio. Ecco i link come promesso.

Genova Wine Festival ? una (orgogliosa) produzione di Associazione Culturale Papille Clandestine.
La homepage di GWF ? qui, contiene tutto quel che c'? da sapere (tipo quali aziende ci sono).
Siccome tutto accade a Palazzo Ducale a Genova, date un'occhiata alla location (La grande bellezza, proprio).

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[04/07/2024, 18:58] A Masterful Class on Franciacorta in Dallas

Since the receding of the pandemic, the wine world has seen the starting up again of traveling shows, seminars and winemaker presentations. And of course, the return of the Master Class, on just about everything.

In today?s hyper-aggrandized environment for aspiring wine professionals, where certification is all the rage, one would think that someone like a master sommelier or master of wine could be more than capable of teaching such a class. And many are. Likewise, I?ve been in master classes led by master sommeliers who had me squirming in my seat for their lack of preparation and dissemination of faulty and incomplete material. After all, they too, are only human. But there is an expectation around an event like a master class, that one who attends such a seminar comes away having greater knowledge of the subject than what he or she had before such an experience. It isn?t necessary that such a class be taught by a master, but it should be handled by someone who has mastery of the subject and is fully capable of communicating the necessary information.

One such event, and the person who presented it, provided the perfect example of what a master class should be. The event was Discovering Franciacorta, Italy?s premiere sparkling wine. It was sponsored by the Consorzio Franciacorta and arranged by Constance Chamberlain of Wine & Co. The presenter was Franciacorta Ambassador May Matta-Aliah, DWS. It was held in Dallas at the tres chic Mister Charles restaurant, in their main dining room. In my career days, I often sat at the soda counter, when it was the Highland Park Pharmacy, and had a quick grilled cheese sandwich and a Dr. Pepper, in between account appointments. It was nice to be back in a space that had been restored, re-imagined and reinvented for today. And on this day, we were in store for some delicious wines (and foods), with a nice dollop of education about Italian wine and specifically, Franciacorta.

The dining room at L'Albereta with Chef Marchesi looking on from afar

Franciacorta is near and dear to me from my working days. I always loved to stop at L?Albereta in Erbusco, where we would stay while visiting our suppliers, Bellavista and Contadi Castaldi. I would take clients there to visit and we had some fantastic meals at the restaurant, especially when Gualtiero Marchesi was alive and at the helm of the ship. One of Italy?s great chefs in the 20th century, in a room that was impeccably arranged.

This time, Franciacorta came to us in Dallas and the restaurant provided a rare convergence of food with the wine that was quintessentially kismet.

Franciacorta Ambassador May Matta-Aliah started on time and the event lasted approximately 2 hours. Enough to learn a little about Franciacorta, taste three flights of wine (nine wines total) and sample them with seven small bites from the chefs at Mister Charles.


Wine Ambassadors come in a variety of styles and persuasions. There are the ?guns for hire? varieties, which can sometimes come off as ?shilling for dollars.? Then there are those who are engaged in the subject matter and present it in an educational yet entertaining manner. Ms. Matta-Aliah is from the latter camp. She gave a good background on the subject, complete with a nicely done Audio-Visual program. She didn?t belabor the presentation with personal anecdotes ? it wasn?t about her. She was professional and I came away knowing a more about the subject and the wines than before the seminar. And I?m fairly well versed in the wines and the area, having been immersed in Franciacorta a time or two. Well done! I could only imagine what the younger wine professional took away from this event ? as it had lots of useful information. 

And then there was the tasting.

We had three flights of three wines each, starting with the Sat?n, going to the Brut and finishing with the Ros? wines. And even though we are talking sparkling wine in the classic method, Franciacorta is more thought of as a wine to accompany food rather than a strictly celebratory sparkling beverage, which it also can be. But the Italian sensitivity is towards food with wine. Thus, the matched small bites were an additional point of illumination when it came to not just understanding Franciacorta, but also Italian wine, if not to Italian culture, altogether. How?s that for Italian-splaining?

 


First flight ? Sat?n ? served with Ossetra caviar and egg salad on toasted brioche, and spring pea goug?res, and truffle beignet, chive cr?me fra?che

Berlucchi Franciacorta Sat?n Brut 61 - Green nose, slightly buttery, acidic, sharp-Bright ? good finish.

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Sat?n Brut 2019 ? Yeasty ? buttery, acidic, sharp citric and lean.

Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Sat?n Brut 2019 ? Evergreen, piney, fruity, lemon notes; bright slightly saor (ala Venice) ? savory

 

shrimp Cappelletti

Second flight ? Brut ? served with Blue Fin tuna crudo, Thai passion fruit dressing, and shrimp Cappelletti sauce velout?, Guajillo

Faccoli Franciacorta Brut ? Delicate fragrant nose, slight butteriness; well balanced; good fruit, nice length, good finish. (matched well with the tuna crudo).

Castelfaglia Franciacorta Brut ?Monogram? Blanc de Blancs ? Buttery, slight evergreen notes; thin, acidic, sharp (electric!)

Ca? del Bosco Franciacorta ?Dosaggio Zero? 2019 ? Saline nose, fleshy, slight butteriness. Thin (lean or skinny?) high acidity, good fruit, slightly spicy, some herbal quality. (Note: not too fizzy)

 


Third flight ? Ros? ? served with Seared scallop, roasted sunchokes, pomegranate, and Atlantic Halibut, cauliflower, sauce Vierge

La Montina Franciacorta Ros? Extra Brut ? Fleshy, iron (rust? arrugginita?), slightly bitter, possible reductive note (maybe from product seeing exposure to heat in transit or in warehouse?)

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Ros? Brut ? rich nose, spicy; berry/raspberry notes. Nice balance, good fruit, but kind of an odd wine. Feels a little bit commercial.

Ferghettina Franciacorta Ros? Brut ? Straight Pinot noir (100%) lots of berry and savory notes.

(Didn?t go too well with the vinegary sauce Vierge.)

 


Overall, the wines showed well and there was a varied group of wines showing, from larger commercial houses to smaller boutique operations. Franciacorta is a small appellation, but inside the area there is a great deal of diversity in soil, exposure and climate. And of course, opinions on winemaking. It is Italy, after all.

I had a little laugh I shared with another participant, James LaBarba. James and I worked together from 1989-1992 at American Wine, started by his father Tony LaBarba. We sold Berlucchi (sparkling) and Ca? del Bosco (still and sparkling) back then, which was, for both of us, half-a-lifetime ago. I noted to James in casual conversation during a break, that our half-a-life-time ago was, for almost everyone else in the room, a lifetime ago, as most of the attendees were not born, back then when we were trying to get some traction for Franciacorta in Dallas and in Texas. Thankfully, now, we have a larger legion of younger professionals who can take up the torch and climb those mountains for Italy and Franciacorta wines. It is truly something to be grateful for, to watch the progression of the generations and the advances being made.

Thanks again to the Franciacorta Consorzio, and to Constance and to May, for making Dallas one of their stops. For too long, we were flyover country. But now, Texas, Dallas, Houston, Austin, and other urban areas, are seeing more immersion from the educational resources to forward the cause of Italian wine.

 

Lake Iseo

  • Further writing on this blog, over the years, about Franciacorta
wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[04/06/2024, 13:35] HEBBO ? Wine & Deli Ristorante @ SkyView Chalets ? Dobbiaco in Val Pusteria (BZ)

Inserito in un suggestivo?scenario country chic,?Hebbo Wine & Deli ? fascino urbano unito a radici alpine. Un po? trendy, un po? favola. Un pizzico di atmosfera da grande citt? e Big City Vibes. Il viaggio Fine Dining? gourmet di HEBBO?? il?nuovo Wine?&?Deli con ristorante a Dobbiaco, in Val?Pusteria ??parte dal fondale pi? profondo del Lago?di?Dobbiaco e sale fino alla stella pi? luminosa dell?orizzonte.

Valorizzato da una magnifica vetrata di ben 12 metri, che si apre su una?vista mozzafiato sul lago, il ristorante ? caratterizzato da?un lungo tavolo?elegantemente arredato che pu? accomodare fino a 12 persone e una romantica stube in maiolica, arricchita da un camino aperto, che aggiunge un tocco di calore e autenticit? all?ambiente. La cornice naturale diventa parte integrante dell?atmosfera conviviale, regalando un panorama fiabesco e permettedo di vivere un’esperienza a 360 gradi. Abbracciando la bellezza circostante, Hebbo la coniuga con un?esperienza gastronomica spumeggiante, dalla quale si evince una spiccata passione per la bont? e la regionalit?.??L’abbinamento vini ? un altro pezzo forte, con una vetrina dedicata lunga ben 5 metri, questo tempio gastronomico offre prestigiose e ricercate etichette vinicole provenienti da diverse parti del mondo. La filosofia alla base di Hebbo Wine & Deli ? quella di unire le eccellenze enogastronomiche con la genuinit? dei prodotti locali. Che si tratti di un brunch gourmet o una cena fine dining il mantra ? “LOVE AT FIRST SIP ?N? TASTE!”

La squadra

Proprietario/Ma?tre/Sommelier: Andreas Panzenberger?

Head Chef: David Senfter

Chef de Partie: Alessandro Daguati

Provate ad immaginare un posto dove poter dormire sotto le stelle, in mezzo alla natura, con la vista su un bellissimo lago delle Dolomiti. Tutto questo solo nei favolosi chalet Skyview?in Trentino-Alto Adige, cos? unici da non aver mai visto nulla di simile prima d?ora.

Decisamente un luogo fiabesco

Se gli Skyview Chalets glass-cube eco chic sono dedicati a chi ama immergersi nella natura ma senza rinunciare alla raffinatezza, da Hebbo Wine & Deli si vive la natura all?esterno, e una esperienza spumeggiante all?interno.

Mise en place?essenziale…

Hebbo vanta una cantina con pi? di 1000 etichette selezionatissime

La serata inizia con un’aperitivo a base di Bitter Fusetti, con un mix unico di botaniche come i classici genziana, rabarbaro e china all’inconsueto quassio. A dare quella giusta punta di acidit? al prodotto ci pensano arancia amara e chinotto!!

Che accompagnamo con il fragrante pane fatto in casa al lievito di birra, la brioche fatta in casa, lo speck dell?Alto Adige e i meravigliosi burro ai funghi e burro salato.

A seguire “La nostra interpretazione di pasta e pomodoro” con trota affumicata con maionese all?aceto di mela e cavolo
rapa, tris di cipolla, sedano rapa con Kombucha fatto in casa, mazzetto d`erbe raccolte nel nostro orto con olio di lemongras e melissa. Che dire, la nostra curiosit? ? decisamente solleticata!

In abbinamento la cuvee Sonnrain 2018 – Thomas Niedermayr

Un vino caratterizzato da delicati aromi di rosa che incontrano le sfumature aromatiche della melissa e della noce moscata. Il sorso scopre una salinit? corposa e una freschezza persistente regalata dal terreno argilloso, calcareo, profondo, con un?alta percentuale di roccia dolomitica bianca.

Assaggiamo anche un calice di Pet Nat 2022 – Rock?

Un M?ller Thurgau naturalmente frizzante, prodotto mediante rifermentazione in bottiglia. Pet Nat si presenta con una fine carbonatazione, leggermente torbido, con una buona acidit? e di enorme divertimento da bere.

Proseguiamo con il porro grigliato sul Binchotan con patate, maionese al porro, rapa rossa e riduzione al porro.

Accompagnato dal gelato al porro con chip e maionese al porro.

In splendido abbinamento con il Gew?rztraminer Project xxx 2021, Hardcore – Kellerei Kaltern

Un vino che promette un piacere intrigante! Con i suoi straordinari effluvi, la sua forza aromatica speciale, la sua potenza incontenibile e la sua armonia unica conquista l’olfatto e il palato. Un vino decisamente potente con un carattere individuale.

A seguire un coloratissimo cavolo riccio marinato, tuorlo temperato, crema di cavolo riccio e patate, speck croccante

In abbinamento con il Riesling ?R? 2021 – Weingut K?fererhof

Vino bianco elegante e aromatico di colore giallo dorato. Fruttato, con sentori esotici e di albicocca, piacevolmente fresco con sapidit?, struttura e persistenza.

Freschissima trota del lago di Dobbiacco pronta ad andare in cottura…

Pelle di trota con crema di panna ridotta e caviale, trota cruda marinata con gel di prugna e crema di
menta, filetto di torta grigliata sulla pietra calda servita con salsa Buerre blanc ed olio alle erbe

Per accompagnare la prossima portata optiamo per Kalterersee ?Alte Reben?2021, Weingut Rohregger

Di colore rosso rubino limpido. Note fruttate complesse di ciliegie, fragole, viola. Al palato ? elegante, corposo con tannini vellutati e fruttati.

Che spendidamente accompagna il petto di quaglia grigliato sul Binchotan, bietola, coscia di quaglia fritta con maionese alle erbe.

Servito insieme alla sua coscia fritta con erbette e maionese.

Proseguiamo con un calice di Instante 2014, Tenuta Franz Haas

Si presenta con un colore rosso granato intenso, con aromi fruttati di bacche nere essiccate, prugne, fichi e datteri, con note di t? verde e corteccia. Queste sensazioni aromatiche accompagnano il vino durante tutta la sua lunga vita e ne sottolineano lo spessore. Al palato il vino non si mostra per il suo carattere, ma piuttosto si esalta per la sua struttura stratificata ed elegante, per la sua finezza e per i suoi tannini complessi e compatti che chiudono in un lungo epilogo.

In abbinamento alla sella di camoscio con cavolo rapa grigliato, crema di cavolo rapa e mirtilli neri.

Bietola ripiena di spalla di camoscio.

E per completare il piatto lo spiedino con sella di camoscio grigliato sul Binchotan.

Arriva anche una gustosa selezione di formaggi locali!

Spezziamo con la carota marinata con sciroppo di sambuco, granita del verde della carota.

Per il dessert abbiniamo il Moscato Rosa 2021, Ansitz Waldgries

Di colore rosso rubino carico. Al naso si presenta con un profumo che ricorda i petali di rose, chiodi di garofano, cannella e moscato con aromi di un bazar orientale. Bella complessit?. Il sorso regala un sapore pieno, armonico e fresco, eccellente equilibrio fra acidit? e tannini.

Crema al cioccolato, gelato fatto in casa alla segale, mela dell?Alto Adige, gel di mela, Kombucha alle rape rosso fatto in casa.?Una vera coccola fine pasto!

Ci salutiamo con il P E T I T F O U R!
Composto da:

  • Pomodoro marinato con granita al levistico e gin
  • Rapa rossa con fiori di sambuco
  • Tartufo al cioccolato fatto in casa
  • Cioccolata al timo e rosmarino

Uno scatto con la squadra!

Gli Skyview Chalet in versione Primavera/Estate e gli interni.

Buonanotte..con un cielo cos?!

Un grazie infinite e….alla prossima!!

Cucina

Un autentico gioiello culinario contemporaneo che fonde sapientemente la tradizione gastronomica alpina?con tocchi di urban style. Questo luogo incantevole e raffinato promette di deliziare i sensi dei suoi ospiti con?un?esperienza gourmet unica nel suo genere, grazie all’estro di un giovane austriaco con importanti esperienze alle spalle che propone solo formule di men? degustazione a sorpresa, 7 o 9 portate alla sera, anche 5 a pranzo. Intriganti gli accostamenti e l’uso dei vegetali. Le materie prime sono selezionatissime, da produttori di continuit? nonch? dagli stessi familiari che gestiscono un’azienda agricola biodinamica.

Servizio ed accoglienza

La vera essenza di Hebbo Wine & Deli non sarebbe completa senza l?ospitalit? calorosa dei suoi padroni di casa e di un?team altamente qualificato. L?accoglienza ? genuina e premurosa, in grado di trasformare ogni visita in un momento da ricordare. Davvero memorabile la carta vini, curata direttamente da Andreas Panzenberger, ricca di oltre un migliaio di etichette tra le quali molte sono di vini biologici e biodonamici, con una predilezione per?Champagne, Pinot Nero e Riesling, i preferiti da Andreas.?Inoltre, Hebbo Wine & Deli si trasforma in un luogo ideale per celebrare occasioni speciali, come compleanni, ricevimenti di nozze, feste e persino eventi aziendali, garantendo sempre un?atmosfera esclusiva e raffinata.

Conclusioni

Hebbo Wine & Deli ? un?opportunit? irrinunciabile per immergersi in un mondo di sapori altotesini, profumi e panorami mozzafiato. Con una attento occhio contro lo spreco, ? decisamente un ristorante destinato a crescere, da provare e riprovare.

 

Viaggiatore Gourmet

Hebbo Wine & Deli

Lago di Dobbiaco 3, I-39034 Dobbiaco – Alto Adige
Tel +39 0474 869 025
Email info@hebbo.it
Sito web www.hebbo.it/it/ristorante-dolomiti
Giorno di riposo marted? e?mercoled?

L'articolo HEBBO – Wine & Deli Ristorante @ SkyView Chalets – Dobbiaco in Val Pusteria (BZ) proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[03/31/2024, 11:40] Easter of the Immigrants ? A Feast for the Ages
From the archives..
Over the past month, as my personal fog has lifted, there have been dreams. And in these dreams, many of them have had family who are no longer with us. The Grande Cinema of them all is one which has taken on a life after waking.


We?re in a large family dining room. Around the table are my dad, and his parents, my grandmother and grandfather. Also there is my dad's sister and her husband, and my dad's uncles and aunts, wives and husbands. My mother?s mother is there as well as my mom's older sister and her two brothers and their wives.

The table is oval and large. It is covered with a white tablecloth, not too bright. There is an overhead light, a chandelier, but not too fussy. The light is warm, like that from a fireplace. There is opera music, not too tragic, playing, not too loud. Nothing is overplayed. Everything is just right.

Nearby, the kitchen emits archetypical aromas that came from an Italian-American kitchen in the 1950?s; onion, basil, roasted potatoes, olive oil, grated cheese, tomato sauce simmering, meatballs, warm bread, lamb roast. Somewhere in time and imagination it?s Easter. Easter of the immigrants.

In the kitchen, my mother is cooking. Not her mother or her mother in law, my grandmothers. No, they are sitting down, waiting. Everyone is waiting, even my father. He is displaying great patience. And his patience is about to be rewarded with a Feast for the Ages.

My mother has made fresh pasta, ribbons of egg-rich goodness. From a garden in the long-lost past, put-up tomatoes re-create the freshness of a once idyllic California summer.

And that is what everyone is waiting for. For the pasta to be ready. The roast is resting. The potatoes are nestling in the juice of the roast. The meatballs await, simmering in the sauce. The wine glasses, delicate little ones, etched gracefully with grapevines, are filled with wine from several decanters on the table. Red wine, from California and, if my uncle had anything to do with it, also from Italy.

My real-life memories from a table like this usually were more frenetic. People would be talking a little louder, maybe cutting up, telling a joke or two. But not this time. It is as if everyone is waiting for something or someone. And they are. They are waiting for my mother to bring her home-made pasta to the table.
?

My dad?s friend Mario, whom I worked for when I moved to Dallas, would tell me stories about the tables he sat around as a child and later as a young man. ?We?d go out to Escondido to my uncle?s ranch. There were oranges, avocados and fresh vegetables. They?d roast a lamb, the wine would flow. Several people would bring instruments out of their cars, everyone played something or sang and we?d sit there until the sun would set behind the Pacific Ocean. God, how I miss those days,? Mario would tell me. ?They?re all gone now. We were young and new to this country. We were filled with dreams and hope. We were becoming Americans, but we never forgot where we came from.?

We never forgot where we came from. Three generations later, it is all as if it had been a dream. My older sister still remembers. Maybe a cousin or two in California. I have pictures and the faintest of memories.
?

I remember once, when I was three or four, we were at my Aunt Mary and Uncle Lou?s house. Everyone was getting ready to go to a fair. It must have been in the springtime, for I remember the weather was perfect. I must have gone to the bathroom, maybe upstairs. For when I came out, the house was empty. Everyone was gone. Without me.

It probably was only ten or twenty minutes. But to me it seemed like an eternity. I remember crying, thinking that they didn?t want to take me. What had I done so wrong?

Eventually someone came back, I think it was my Aunt Mary, and fetched me. Aunt Mary, who did not suffer fools gladly, saw that I was upset. But she wouldn?t have any of my tears. ?Let?s go, little one, everyone is waiting for you.? And off we went, to get ice cream and balloons, and to sit in the carousel and listen to the calliope music. A day in the life. All gone as well.
?

Back, to the dream around the oval table. After the pasta arrived and the lamb and potatoes and salad and wine were all finished, several people would go outside to smoke and to watch the magnolia tree drop flowers on the roses in the garden. Inside the phonograph played the Easter Hymn from Cavalleria Rusticana. In a corner Aunt Anna was crying softly; the music recalled some memory which evoked her emotions.
Inneggiamo, il Signor non ? morto.
Ei fulgente ha dischiuso l'avel.
Inneggiamo al Signore risorto?
oggi asceso alla gloria del Ciel!

Easter as it once was. Easter as it never was. Easter as it never will be again. For all the immigrants are gone and once again, we are home, alone.







wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[03/24/2024, 14:59] Il Carnasciale - There Goes the Cabernet-borhood

We are in the month of March ? which has been, traditionally, in the wine trade, a time when winemakers and winery owners jet off and taste their clients on their releases, new and sometimes old. Slow Wine, Gambero Rosso, James Suckling, even Vinitaly with its Road Show, are crisscrossing the planet and spreading the Gospel of Italian Wine.

So, it came to be, on a Friday at Noon, one week before Good Friday, that the proprietor of the fabled Tuscan estate, Il Carnasciale, landed in Dallas, between Slow Wine gigs in Austin and Denver for a quick twelve-hour sip and swirl with local chefs and sommeliers.

Mortiz Rogosky was that person, and he came with a noteworthy story. The property is in Localita San Leolino, Bucine, in the province of Arezzo in Tuscany. It falls within the DOC of Vald?Arno Di Sopra, and as the crow flies is about eight miles from Gaiole in the Chianti Classico zone. But it is definitely an outlier in the area.

Upon meeting Moritz, he immediately presented as most affable and warm. He knew who I was, which is always a bit of a shock. We got down to talking about wine post haste.

Let me deviate for just a moment.

There are all kinds of people who get into the wine business, in the world and in Italy. Italy holds a special charm for many people, for the land is romantic and enchanting. If one bought into the place before the prices skyrocketed, it was a bargain. But Italy expects something back from their ?owners.? And that is to listen to the land, and in this case, the vines. On this property the vines were also outliers, or so it seems.


That is, the grape that the family (and now the world) calls Caberlot, is purported to be a marriage, over time, of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A ?coltura promiscua? of sorts. I know, this sounds like an early wet dream of Riccardo Cotarella, imagining his not-too-distant future from his single post bedroom in Umbria. But this is an independent project of Nature, with Vittorio Fiore and Remigio Bordini filling in for the Archangels, Rafael and Gabriel. The Rogosky?s, now mother Bettina and son Moritz, have hitched a small part of their fortune to elaborating the grape and making it into a singular wine. I would say, early on, they achieved their goal. The wine known as Caberlot, is highly prized ( and valued) by a growing coterie of collectors and cognoscenti. I am guilty of being one of their willing acolytes on this journey. The wines, before I even begin to describe them, are world-class outstanding.

Caberlot has been called a ?cult? wine. When I hear that word, I tend to more think of Kool-Aid and Jim Jones, unfortunately. But the Latin and Greek word, cultus, focuses more on the process of cultivation. To inhabit, to tend, to care for. And in that way, I can perfectly imagine this wine to be made in the spirit of caring and salubriousness.

Sidebar: Mortiz told me something that I would also probably tell someone, if I were in his position. And that is that they have not genetically tested the grapes because they really don?t want to know at this point, don?t want to burst their bubble in case the grapes turn out to be different than what they had been told. I too would say that, on the record. But I sure as hell would want to know, just for curiosity?s sake. If they have, let it be their little secret. It doesn?t diminish the impact of the wine in my view.

This could really be a longer post, but I know our collective attention span doesn?t allow for an elaboration. So, let?s talk wines:


First to try was the 2019 Ottantadue ? a 100% Sangiovese made in stainless steel, no oak. Fresh nose and fruit, nice spice, in fact quite spicy. The flavors opened up into a warm gushy feel. Really nice wine for pronto bevere. I imagine a wine like this is good for the winery, as they need something to drink often without raiding the Caberlot silo. It?s one of those wines that if it were all I could drink for the rest of my life as an everyday, I would be none the worse for it. Quite pleasant. Appx $30-40.

Second up was the 2020 Carnasciale. From the Caberlot vines and handled similarly to the Caberlot releases, but with a lighter touch with regards to ageing. I found the wine to be rich and velvety, quite lovely. The oak was present but not overbearing. It was well balanced and again, a really nice wine. Hovers in price between $70-90.


Finally, a trio of Caberlot vintages, the 2019, 2018 and 2017. Pre-Covid era wines, we now call them. Let?s dig in:

2019 Il Caberlot ? I found a little closed in ? deep colors and flavors ? spicy ? some oak ? tannic, but supple (think Harry Waugh?s famous ?tender tannins? appertaining to Latour). Long finish and highly perfumed. I kept going back to this wine, especially the aroma. They were wonderfully integrated. Just another lovely wine.

2018 Il Caberlot ? deeper flavors, purple fruits. The thing about this wine that struck me was that while this might be seen as an ?international? style of red wine, it definitely said ?Italy? and even more so ?Tuscany? to me. It had tannins galore, and the spice was well woven into the flavors, making the tannins seem not so stringent and unmovable. The fruit haloed all of this, of course. If I were younger, I?d put this in the wine closet for the future, for sure.

2017 Il Caberlot ? this one had a fleshiness to it in the initial handshake. It was open and warm and slightly tannic - We are talking 2017 here -and that was a dry, droughty year, preceded by an early spring frost which determined many things, crop size among them. The wine was aromatic and lush, a great effort considering the challenges of 2017. A gorgeous, if lighter wine. I could cellar this one in my dotage, easily.

The winery produces 20,000 bottles of which 70% are 1.5 liter magnums. So, a lot of 750ml bottles don?t make it to America, and even fewer to Texas. And the Caberlot wines, in 750ml, retail in the mid-to-high $200+ per bottle. In restaurants, expect to part with $600-1000 for the experience of having somebody pour it for you in public.

That would make this wine either a special occasion wine or a wine for people for whom spending a thousand dollars is like spending ten bucks. And Dallas has no shortage of that caste. So, it really is a wine made for this glitzy urban refuge of 8+ million souls. Or, a fortunate fraction.


Antonio Galloni also loves this winery and their offerings. Galloni, who rolls with the patricians in the wine world, gives high marks (100 points for the 2018 Caberlot!) but he also gives praise to the Ottantadue, which pleases this plebe. Something for everyone. So many winners!

I?m a fan ? I?m not ashamed to admit it. It?s a wine for the Royal Oak and Nautilus crowd, and sometimes I get invited to the table. I?ll concede from time to time. After all, it is a gift from Italy, and I am a son of Italy. So, I am grateful to her, and to Moritz, for dropping into our neighborhood and gracing us with his presence and his very wonderful wines. Or as we say in the Dallas-Ft. Worth metroplex (DFW), these are ?DFW? (Delicious F***ing Wines!)

 


 

 

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[03/17/2024, 15:07] The New Gatekeepers

This past week, it was raining hard, and I needed to walk my new knee. So I went to the local mall, NorthPark Center, which is enclosed and dry and has a lot of great art and stores. It also has Eataly, an Italian emporium, a dozen places to get espresso, clean bathrooms, and some nice shops. I am into watches, so I like to look at the new offerings as I perambulate my way towards new-knee health. But recently I?ve tracked a trend in retail, which I have been sensing also happens in the world of wine ? the new gatekeepers.

Three incidents happened, almost at the same time.


This first one was in a watch shop. I?d avoided going into this shop, which arguably sells some of the most popular and iconic timepieces known to humankind. The company is extremely wealthy from the sale of their luxury watches, and  they have a foundation that donates millions and millions of dollars, yearly, to hospitals and other worthwhile concerns. They do good work. And their watches are flawless. They are also impossible to buy in their worldwide boutiques. But they have exhibition watches to try on and supposedly they have a waiting list if one hoped to buy one of their watches in the future. If not, there is a lively secondary market. And one will pay a 10-30% premium for the privilege of expediency. It is an odd setup. But world demand for these watches is off the charts.

Anyway, I waited behind a rope until the rent-a-cop gave me the OK to go in. I approached the table where the clerk was. We exchanged greetings and I explained to him that I had walked by this place probably hundreds of times but never gone in. ?This is my first time in.? I got a ?so what?? kind of look. I then told him a friend of mine was a big fan of these watches and I had noticed a watch on him that I liked, a Submariner. The clerk replied, ?We don?t have any in stock, these are just exhibition pieces.? Not a, ?Would you like to try our exhibition piece on your wrist and see how one might look?? No, nothing.

As the visit spiraled into what I considered an embarrassing and humiliating experience (one of the reasons why I never walked in the place until now) I realized this clerk was a gatekeeper, not a ferryman. He was not inclined to put my name on a list, just in case one of those watches showed up in the next few years. 


I was dressed well (Calvin Klein, Lagerfeld, etc.) and I had a nice titanium timepiece on my wrist (Bulgari Octo Finissimo) which should have signaled to the clerk that I was a serious watch person. We?re not talking about some backwater town in Mudville. This is a metropolis of over 8 million people! No matter, I could have been invisible for all it was worth.

So, I skulked out of there, wondering why the hell did I go in there in the first place? It was exactly as I had feared it would be ? excruciatingly humiliating ? all because a clerk decided to play gatekeeper instead of experience unfolder.

A few days earlier we were in the same mall and there was a new restaurant that had just opened. It was 3:45PM and they were having a happy hour. I went up to the front desk and a bevy of young, well-dressed women were waiting to receive us. First they asked if I had a reservation. At 3:45 PM on a weekday? No. Then they asked my name, my phone number, my email. I asked them if this was necessary, we just wanted to try the place out. 


They told us to wait, and they?d get to us soon. Mind you, the place was maybe ? full. I was getting ready to walk off and leave, when finally, someone said, ?Your table is ready.? So, off we went, reluctantly at that point. Look, the table was never not ready. It was just a bullshit power play these folks were profligating on the old folks. Again, gatekeepers, not event unravelers. I will think again before going back.

We have a nice Italian food and wine emporium in the mall, and we like to buy food, eat and walk around and see the new products. I decided to walk into the wine department and ask about a wine I once saw there. I spotted a gent who I had noticed in there a bit, he seemed to know the lay of the land. So, I asked him if he had the Erbaluce di Caluso in stock. ?What is the varietal,? he asked. ?Erbaluce,? I responded. ?From Piedmont, the Alta Langa.? I could have been speaking Klingon.

A small display of Erbaluce producers

?We have Gavi, Arneis, and other white wines from Piedmont, on the other side we have Sauvignon Blanc, etc. from Northeast Italy.? Yes, we have no Erbaluce.

I thanked him for his time and ambled off. I wasn?t looking for Gavi. Or Arneis. Or Sauvignon Blanc. Another teachable moment lost. (Then again, when I was in there one time, another clerk was trying to tell me Sassicaia had Sangiovese in it.) One would think, in a place like that, specializing in Italian wine, that the clerk would have been in the least curious? For God?s sake, they have a Trebbiano from Abruzzo in their ?reserve vault? for $1,000! Erbaluce is not out of their league. Or is it?

All this to signal a wariness that I am seeing in the world and also in the wine world. And that is a growing cadre of gatekeepers, trying to keep people from experiences rather than ferrying them over into new territory. What, someone out there says? What about the young kids and the crusade to put natural wines on the map?

Funny you should ask.


I was reading a profile on a wine buyer in one of the hot culinary spots in our city. He?s all over the natural wine scene. I mean, you will not find anything in the restaurant, where he works, that you can find in Total Wine, Kroger or the mainstream wine world. OK, that?s fine, he?s focused. But when asked where he hangs out in his off hours, he mentioned a dive bar. Now, I bet the back bar is loaded with mainstream, commercially popular products like Tito?s and Crown Royal. So, why the double standard? Is it just posturing? Or simply, more of the trendy curated gatekeeping that is pervading the service industry?

Here's the thing ? the folks we used to serve when I was a sommelier and a server, that we called customers, are now called guests. But now the guests need to be exposed to experiences that are curated by someone who is on a journey. It is no longer service. It is ?we will show you the way, you know nothing.? That is what service looks like in 2024. Welcome to Huxleyville.

We need fewer gatekeepers and more ferryman and women. Better listeners, not self-brand ambassadors. Devotees to service and study. 

Like the ferryman Vasudeva said in Siddhartha. ?The river has taught me to listen, from it you will learn it as well. It knows everything, the river, everything can be learned from it.?

 

 

 

? written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

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[03/10/2024, 14:55] What does it take to be the #1 Italian wine expert in the world?

Recently, I was introduced as an Italian wine expert. I bristled a little, and explained that at this time I am an enthusiast, and maybe one time I had been a little more involved in the day-to-day business of expertise, but that I have never considered myself an expert. But it got me to thinking about proficiency, and specifically, which person out there might be the #1 Italian wine expert in the world. A tall order, for sure, and one which might be different for different people, in different parts of the world.

For the sake of this speculative exercise, though, I decided to erect a few hurdles. Here goes:


  • They should not have any kind of affiliation with winery, importer, distributor, retailer or restaurant.
  • They should not have any connection with any government or governmental agency, whether it be Italian, American, Chinese or any other country.
  • They should be free of any attachment to any kind of awards program, wine competition, ambassador program, academy or marketing operations.
  • They should not have any connection to any commercial concern that interacts with the Italian wine trade ? that would include public relations, ambassadorships, product endorser, paid influencer positions or trade show affiliations.
  • They should not have any connection to any road show that Italian wineries participate in, whether it be gratis or pay-to-play. There should be a firewall between the expert and all commercial and trade related enterprises which seek to promote the role of Italian wines.
  • They should never take free trips, junkets or participate in anything that might be seen as trying to influence the expert from an outside source.


Ok, that?s the list of don?ts. How about the list of dos?

  • They should fully understand the classic traditional wines of Italy, the appellations, the sub-zones, the MGA?s, the DOC/DOCG wines and laws.
  • They should also understand the new and incoming wines and wine styles and be able to place them in the larger context of Italian wine and what their place in that world is and where it is going.
  • They should thoroughly understand every region, be fully briefed on the types of grapes Italian wine is made from as well as all the biotypes that exist and are being discovered in real time. They should understand the difference between a clone and a biotype and use the words correctly. Same goes for varieties and varietals.
  • While they might be acquainted with various producers and importers of Italian wine, they should maintain a professional distance from them so as to not send any message of collusion, conflict of interest, or violation of anything of an ethical nature.
  • They can write about, talk about, lecture on and even instruct others about Italian wine, so long as it does not favor any one wine or winery, region or marketing collective. They should share their knowledge and enthusiasm, by all means, but it should be objective.
  • Rating wine when writing about them? The 100-point scale has been bastardized by some ?experts? to enrich themselves personally, so I would look for someone who does not abuse the 100-point scale. I understand why it had become accepted in today?s world, but I would prefer them not to use it, if at all possible.

So, where does that leave us? I realize there are a lot of hurdles placed herein, but I think in order to be the #1 Italian wine expert in the world, they must rise above the fray. Is there anyone out there? One person comes pretty damn close. Another one might have been, at one time, in the running. But they are running a larger concern and that would take away from their overall momentum, and income generating. Another one claims to be all things to Italian wine, but it comes with a price. That person has benefited greatly in financial terms, but they also are getting close to being seen as the George Santos of the Italian wine world.

Don?t expect the Italian government or any of their agencies to foster expertise at this level. There is still too much corruption and the temptation for the money grab is just too great for most people. I understand this, as the EU and Italy often throw so much money around, it?s like going out into the back yard and pulling weeds after a week?s long rain. Unfortunately, with those inclined, when they harness the power that allows them to influence the direction of wine, it usually doesn?t end well for them. Like I said, corruption in the highest levels of Italian wine, at the government level, is part of the tradition of the institution. It?s a shame, but it exists and is quite real.

In a perfect world, this person should be free of any pecuniary encumbrances, therefore able to go about the business of expertise without any concerns for income generating activities. Other than someone in academia, if they were independently wealthy, that would be a plus. But we don?t live in a perfect world, do we?

So, who is out there? Are they Italian? Are they American? Are they from China? Are they in England? Male? Female? Gender fluid? I?d ask for comments, but this is more of a ?think on it? piece.

That?s what I?m going to do, over a fresh bottle of Langhe Nebbiolo.

 

 

 

 

? written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

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[03/03/2024, 17:21] Enrico Scavino - A Remembrance

Last Monday, I received a note from a friend in Italy. ?Enrico Scavino has crossed over into the Great Sea.?

Our paths first crossed 40 years ago, in 1984. It was my first business trip to Italy and I was with my friend and colleague Guy Stout. We had a duo of Italian restaurateurs with us and our guide Barone Armando de Rham, who represented Scavino to us in the U.S.

We were coming from Vinitaly, which in those days was a smallish (but growing) affair. Piedmont! It was so exciting to be going to the Burgundy of Italy, which was what we were told. In those days, the Italian wines and regions leaned on French equivalents, so the unknowing could find an entry point. Now, not so necessary, as Italian wine has become a force in the wine world.

1984 a very young yours truly at far left, Armando
de Rham and Enrico Scavino -  photo by Guy Stout

When we arrived to the winery and the sunny courtyard, Enrico met and greeted us with his famous smile. We toured the winery. Something about it was different than some of the others we had recently visited. There was a large room solely designated for small barrels, barriques, they called them. The barrels were French, and expensive, and some producers were experimenting with ageing the Nebbiolo wine in them. It was just short of scandalous, at the time. But, if used properly, the wines showed a vim and a vigor that some of the neighboring wineries just didn?t quite come up to.

Paolo Scavino

Enrico was a warm person, enthusiastic and youthful. His daughters and wife and father were around as well. It was a family affair. His father Paolo, was older then. Ha, I think about his age and laugh a little. It?s not that far from where I am now. And for those young?uns reading this, if you are lucky enough to get through the next 10 minutes, you might also be there, sooner than you think.


We tasted through some barrels and then went into the tasting room to sample some bottled wines, over some breadsticks and local cheeses, which was fairly de rigueur in those days. The wines were stout and young and strong and compelling to my young palate. We were told how much we could expect for our market (Texas) and we reserved all that we could have. Guy told me that the two restaurateurs would put the wine on the list, for sure, and Guy had big plans for other places, both retail and restaurant, in his territory, which was Houston. As for my territory, Dallas, which was a little staider and conservative, I felt reasonably certain that some of the high-end hotels and a few innovative Italian restaurants, like Alessio?s and Savino?s, would also follow suit. And just like that, voil?, we were going to bring in the wines of Paolo Scavino to Texas. Another first!

Enrico, daughter Enrica and Armando de Rham
 

What I remember about Enrico, and his whole family, was that they were pretty mellow. Driven yes, but calm. They looked at time in generational terms, something most Americans have a hard time gripping onto.



Thirty years later, in 2015, I returned to the winery, for the 30th anniversary festivities for their crowning achievement, their Barolo Bric del Fiasc. Luminaries from all over the wine world flew in for the party, and we were lucky to be in Italy at the time and get invited. 

I always had a soft spot in my heart for Elisa, ever since she was a toddler. But the whole family emanated a warmth and a familiarity that was welcoming and engaging. One of the great things about being in the wine world, and getting to know and love the people in it.

When I got word that Enrico has passed, it saddened me. So many people in the wine world that I grew up with have left us. Or rather, left their little rivulets and gone on to the Greater Sea.

Indeed, after a period of swimming in the vinous river of the Langhe, Enrico has also gone into that Larger Presence.  Bon anima, amico. See you on the other side.


? written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
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[02/25/2024, 14:04] ?Am I drinking too much wine??

I?ve been abstaining from drinking any kind of alcohol for the past month, as I had knee surgery and didn?t want it to interact with any medications I was on. Things also were tasting metallic, probably a reaction from all the chemicals that had been pumped into me. Do you want to know something? I really didn?t miss wine.

Meanwhile, I scroll past endless dinners and wine tastings from friends and colleagues. The effect is that some of these folks seem to be having an endless and moveable feast, from London to New York, Milan to Hong Kong. If I didn?t know better, I?d almost jump to the conclusion that some of my friends and colleagues might have a drinking problem. But that?s the problem with social media ? folks offer these brief snapshots of their life and it fills up the viewfinder, as if that were all they were doing. Of course, they are involved in other activities as well ? sleeping, bathing, paying bills, having sex, packing, traveling, waiting at airports, checking into hotels and taking out the garbage. But who wants to see any of that!


But I do wonder and worry if any of those folks are struggling with alcohol. The shot of the sandwich and a beer or a glass of wine at the airport. The shot of a bottle of wine as someone just arrived in Italy/France/Spain/etc. The shot of someone?s multi-course dinner with friends, accompanied by a plethora of trophy/grail wines. Over and over. As if obtaining those unobtainable wines allow oneself to slip under the radar of one who might or might not be addicted to alcohol. It?s become a bigger problem now that we are all up in everyone?s business, thanks to their Instagram feeds. I mentioned this once to a friend who likes to imbibe. He told me, quite candidly, ?Yes, but I?m a functional alcoholic.? I guess it sounds less catastrophic that way. But at the end of a night of eating and drinking, at the point when I?d called it quits 30-45 minutes before and switched to water, he was still opening bottles. I know some of you might be wondering if I?m casting the shame pole into the murky waters of the lives of others. Or some kind of virtue signaling. I assure you; those thoughts have crossed my mind. But I know most folks aren?t just hanging out at the bar, all day and all night, day in and day out. They are working, sleeping, etc. But some of us have gotten caught in a hook in which release is difficult, if not impossible. And I worry about that, for alcohol is tricky and moves stealthily.

As for myself, this has caused me to reflect on my relationship and usage of alcohol, couched in the figure of a vintage bottle of wine, preferably from Italy or France, as that is what is mainly taking up space in my wine closet/cave.

So, I asked myself, ?Am I drinking too much wine?? Last month notwithstanding, I took a look at my usage, based on what I depleted from my collection, which is tidily arranged on a spread sheet.


Well, since retirement, five years ago now, I definitely have been drinking less. Especially red wine. Not that I haven?t tried. It?s just that the way I eat now is sparser than it was when I was younger and in the work force. I just don?t eat as much. And, seeing as I often choose wine to go with our meals, if the meals get smaller or less often, then the consumption of wine decreases. And it has.

So, how does one know if they have a drinking problem, especially if one is involved in the trade? Well, it has always been expected that those in the job help promote the trade. And that involves popping corks and trying, promoting and encouraging others to imbibe as well. These days it might not be as politically correct to do so, but how does one balance the needs of one?s livelihood with the demands of one?s personal health? Is there a razor?s edge one must balance oneself upon in this quest to achieve work/life harmony?

A lot of questions. Not a lot of answers.


Funny, though, that this comes up more and more in the 21st century. Healthy living and longevity are sought after goals, and if wine (or overall, alcohol) consumption doesn?t promote those objectives, they could be seen as a precarious obstruction towards attaining those goals.

But alcohol is fun! There?s the buzz factor, which we rarely talk about in public, but which many folks muse over in private conversations. I?m not talking about getting snot-slinging drunk, just a wave of light exhilaration. Gotta be good for the blood pressure, no? So, how bad can it be in the long run?

When I had my tonsils taken out eight years ago, I stopped drinking any alcohol while recovering. I had a profusion of chemicals careening around my system: steroids, antibiotics, morphine, iodine, aspirin, ibuprofen. Alcohol was just one more toxic substance.


When I resumed, 100 days later, I could take wine. But distilled spirits burned. Badly. So, I laid off spirits. Eventually I would sip on a liqueur or even a scotch whiskey or tequila, but in small doses. I could feel the toxicity to my system, so I backed off.

For myself, I know that I am not drinking too much wine. I?m not drinking as much as I?d like, even though right now that is a pretty low bar. I know I?m not addicted to the stuff. I?m not even sure how much I like it anymore, to be brutally honest. I?m not in love with it. But I like it, occasionally. Maybe it?s just autumn season of my life I?m in.

This is an attempt to reconfigure wines importance in my life. It was never front-stage-and-center. Wine, to me, is a marker within a more inclusive cultural setting. It?s an appendage, rather than the heart.

Years ago, I wrote this, and it bears repeating in my present stage of recovery: ?Coming out of the fog I found myself in these past few weeks, I realize that balance, not only in wine, but in life, is more important than acid, than minerality, than fruit, or wood, or expression or concentration. Too much of a good thing is just that ? too much.?

What about you, friends and readers? 


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[02/22/2024, 12:23] Report, quello di adesso, 2024

Perch? scrivere l'ennesimo wall of text quando c'? gi? chi se la sbriga meglio, e pure velocemente? Allora tanto vale linkare Ernesto Gentili, che dice tutto quel che va detto sulla nuova puntata di Report dedicata, con modi sommari, alla nostra bevanda del cuore. Giusto una citazione:

"Dopo aver sentito definire WineandSiena come uno degli eventi pi? importanti del panorama nazionale e aver scoperto, bont? loro, che ci sono perfino due produttori (uno scovato in Abruzzo e uno in Veneto) dall?animo puro, qualche dubbio che ci stiano prendendo in giro pu? anche sorgere".

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[02/18/2024, 17:07] The Day After - A World and a Lifetime Ago

Yesterday morning, very early, I had this odd sensation. I remember lying in bed, as I have done for the past month, recovering from full-knee replacement surgery. I hadn?t been sleeping well for that month, so I just figured it was part of the process, wailing and flailing and general discomfort.

And then I heard an ancient song, by the Shangri-las, whispering lyrics to their hit song, ?Remember?:

(Remember) walking in the sand

(Remember) walking hand-in-hand

(Remember) the night was so exciting

(Remember) smile was so inviting

(Remember) then she touched my cheek

(Remember) with her fingertips

Softly, softly we'd meet with our lips

And then, I remembered.

The same day, a Saturday, 23 years ago to the day, February 17, 2001, I got a call from the care center where my wife Lizanne was. It was 5:30 AM. ?Mr. Cevola, you need to come. Your wife doesn?t have much more time.?

So, I got up, fed the cat, got dressed and headed out to say good-bye to my dear wife.


I got there in time for us to watch the sun rise, her last sunrise, before she slipped away. I was saddened, but relieved her suffering would be over. She had just turned 48 on the 14th. She was determined to make it to her birthday. She would never see 50, or 60, or 70. Multiple Sclerosis saw to that.

23 years later, how does it go? It goes. Life goes on, with or without us. But as I?ve witnessed in our age of social media, when friends of mine lose their mates too early or untimely, they let us know just how painful it is in the beginning. The truth is, it still is. It?s just that one lives to learn to endure the pain, to live with it. What else can you do?

The day of Liz?s passing, her best friend told me to come over and stay with them that night, to not be alone. I went home, got some things, fed the cat again, and headed over. We had a meal, some wine, and I went to bed in their guest room, which when Liz was her roommate, was once Liz?s room. As I was slipping into sleep, I felt Liz gently graze my arm with her touch, as she moved on into the greater cosmos. She was unbound, everything would be ok for her.


For those of us still tethered to our bodies and this earth, it would be a different story. Many years, many tears, a lot of pain. Rinse and repeat.

But I would find a way to stay the course. If only to honor the struggle she gave, by living the best life I could, for me and for her memory.

I?m not sure I excelled in that part. But I tried.

What I found out, along the way, was that things like work and career are highly over-rated. Sure, I raced up and down the wine trail in Italy for years until the race ended. And I took it so very seriously.


I laugh now, because it seems a bit delusional to think any one of us can make that big of a difference in anything, let alone making the world safe for Italian wine. Ha! Anyway, that was my lesson. I don?t expect anyone else to read this and take this as a cautionary tale. We all have our destinies lined up for us.

But love and family and peace and health and yes, happiness, are the Golden Fleece of this life for me. And for anyone listening, take heed. Your child is a million times more important than a placement, a blog post, an unforgettable meal or a once-in-a-lifetime 20-30-40-year vertical tasting of some fabulous wine property in Italy or France. Those pursuits are as dull as dishwater compared to the essential stuff of life.

One last note: I?ve kept a dream log every time I had a dream about Liz. I know her essence is still in my heart as well as running around the universe. Maybe one day, when I am no longer corporeal, our essences will dance together again, drink the wine of the cosmos, and everything will be as one, as the physicists tell us it is. Until then, I am here, 23 years to the day after, still loving, and still remembering our hand-in-hand walk, in the sands of time.

 

? written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[11/03/2023, 10:09] Di Fornovo, fiere, fastidi, e un libro (fondamentale)


Sono partito per Fornovo avendo in testa questo passaggio, tratto dall'opera pi? fondamentale recente sul vino (Epistenologia, cio?).

?Esco dall?ennesima fiera del vino, vivo vitale naturale indipendente nudo critico resistente e corsaro, con consueto disagio e un gran mal di testa. Non sono i solfiti, certo che no, e poi tanti vini che ho amato son qua, gli irregolari e scomposti. Non ? questo, non ti agitare: non ho cambiato gusti rispetto al precedente viaggio. ? piuttosto il chiacchiericcio costante da indulgenze plenarie, tutta quella polvere che l?ambulare continuo da un banco a un altro, da un ?prova questo? a quest?altro solleva, insieme alle solite baggianate sulle annate e le frasi fatte che le accompagnano. Tutto questo mi procura un po? di fastidio, ma sono io, non ? certo colpa del vino. Abbiamo conosciuto dei vecchietti siciliani un po? persi e sperduti per la prima volta evidentemente portati a Milano perch? ora il loro ?prodotto? si vende. Mi piace il loro vino ma non per quel misero assaggio al banchetto, dosi talmente omeopatiche che sembra di essere in quel film di Antonioni dove si gioca a tennis senza pallina; mi ? piaciuto perch? mi piacciono loro, e questo non ? un surrogato rispetto al piacere del vino. Anzi, ormai sono questi gli aspetti del vino che noto: quella frase ?conta solo quel che ? dentro il bicchiere? ? qualcuno ancora lo dice, e con supponenza, come se rivelasse una verit? persino profonda ? non vuol dire nulla. Non c?? nulla solo dentro il bicchiere, perch? quel che ? dentro ? sempre anche fuori. Nemmeno dal rigoroso punto di vista delle ricerche sul percepire: perch? gustare, come ormai sanno tutti, ? multi- e cross-sensoriale.
Poi una volta che esco m?infastidisco anche di me che ho provato fastidio?

Insomma ero malmostoso, preventivamente. Ma poi quell'ultimo passaggio, "mi infastidisco anche di me che ho provato fastidio", per me arriva a proposito, siccome mi ci specchio dentro da un pezzo.


A Fornovo pioveva (ma che notizia ?, del resto)

Fatto sta che ho improvvisato qualcosa per evitare il fastidio. Questa edizione di Fornovo era per me pi? libertaria del solito, non avevo mappe o desideri. Cos? in mezzo ai molti produttori notissimi, con folle di assaggiatori al tavolo, ho scelto sempre i tavoli dove il produttore meno noto, o proprio sconosciuto, era da solo, mezzo triste mezzo assonnato. Ecco, ho fatto una raffica di assaggi cos?. E sono stati quasi tutti assaggi molto interessanti, al punto che pure essendo partito per Fornovo pensando "non mi serve nulla" adesso ho tre o quattro nomi che considero con favore. Forse questa formula destrutturata si rivela ideale, ma comunque Fornovo non ha deluso nemmeno quest'anno.

Sconosciuti a me, sconosciuti al mondo come lo frequento, il mondo digitale, internet, la conoscenza condivisa. Che nel frattempo ? diventata cosa? Pure quella vittima di una forma di enshittification, ovvero: alcune cose cambiano, ma inevitabilmente in peggio. Potrei fare qualcosa in proposito per rimediare, uno di quei post riassuntivi di nomi, aziende, assaggi, schede, punteggi. Ma ci sono due problemi: ho detto che ho scelto in via preventiva produttori depressi e abbandonati, ora che figura ci faccio ad elencarli? Ma soprattutto: siccome non possiamo non dirci perulliani, cio? seguaci della filosofia di tanto autore, che smonta senza scampo chi fa il mestiere del redattore di schede (io, tra l'altro!), come si fa?

Ci? ? fastidioso, no? E ovviamente m?infastidisco anche di me che ho provato fastidio.

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[10/18/2023, 11:58] Due assaggi della domenica e si scopre che


Quando arriva domenica metto da parte qualche assaggio della festa, e riservo a quel giorno bevute che immagino pi? divertenti. Anche se come sempre quando apro una bottiglia di vino non so mai davvero cosa mi aspetta, come la scatola di cioccolatini di Forrest Gump. C'? un'idea di massima, spesso delle aspettative, che finiscono sempre per intralciare l'assaggio, o ti deludono o resti sorpreso, ma appunto non sai mai.

Ecco il Rosso di Montalcino 2022 di Tiezzi: produttore molto stimato per il lungo cursus honorum, per aver fatto cose grandiose col sangiovese a Montalcino su due piccoli vigneti, il Poggio Cerrino e Vigna Soccorso. Dunque mi aspettavo la sangiovesitudine e la montalcinit? (non saprei come dire meglio) in fondo a quel bicchiere. Aspettative molto soddisfatte: il Rosso subito ha un naso truculento di sangue e macelleria, poi si quieta piano verso il mentolato (un naso di erba aromatica, verde, direi) e il frutto. Bocca super salda, tannino davvero squillante, sorso dritto e verticale, come a dire di grande soddisfazione, nel complesso un vino che mi piace perch? non rinuncia al carattere ruvido e nello stesso tempo ? appagante, sul finale risulta confortevole a dispetto delle premesse e del quadro generale. Ma come ci riesce? Beh, ci riesce. Il genere di assaggio che vorrei rifare il giorno dopo.

 

E una retro etichetta non ce la vuoi mettere?


Nel relax del fine pranzo risento il Rum Millionario 15 Reserva Especial, solera, che viene dal Per?. Posso ripetere quel che ho detto l? per l?: non me lo ricordavo cos? buono. Assaggio che supera le aspettative quindi, perch? io guardo spesso al Rum (quello nello stile dolcione, perlomeno) come a una bevuta un po' appesantita dalla zuccherosit?, tant'? che il Rum migliore ? quello che riesce a maneggiare la botta mielosa alternandola ad altro - ma a cosa? Qui c'era in effetti un alcol pulito, l'invecchiamento col metodo solera lo ha asciugato, la bocca era sollecitata ma non stuccata di dolcezza lasciva. Caspita, mi dico da solo, bravo Millionario, bel lavoro. Ancora adesso non so come mai non lo ricordassi cos? bene, serviva proprio il ripasso della lezione.

Ora mi devo studiare qualcosa di nuovo per la prossima domenica, vediamo che mi invento.


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[10/10/2023, 10:05] Brut Tradition Vorin-Jumel. Le basi, proprio

Qualche considerazione dopo l'assaggio del nuovo Champagne Brut Tradition di Voirin-Jumel. Nuovo in quanto c'? stato un piccolo cambiamento nelle percentuali delle uve dell'assemblaggio, ora predomina il pinot nero col 61%, il restante ? chardonnay. Fino a un paio d'anni fa era cinquanta-e-cinquanta. Essendo arrivato fresco fresco, potevo esimermi dall'assaggiare subito, curioso come sono? Non potevo. 

Direttamente dalla mia galleria personale

Quindi ecco: il pinot nero prevale quanto basta, senza strafare, cio? non esagera in potenza ma fa il suo bel lavoro, conferisce una certa fierezza. Lo chardonnay segue a ruota, in secondo piano ma certo non dimesso, col suo corredo di crema pasticcera, insomma un po' di delicatesse che serve a completare il quadro. La retro etichetta ? del genere parecchio esplicativo, ci tiene a dire tra l'altro che la cuv?e in questione ? essenzialmente figlia della vendemmia 2020, e fa bene siccome ? una bellissima annata, col tradizionale saldo di vini di riserva.

Questo ? il genere di Champagne-base che praticamente ogni maison ha nel suo listino, in un certo senso ? il vino che rappresenta lo stile e le capacit? appunto basiche di chi produce. Per me i brut tradition (spesso si chiamano tutti cos?) sono assai significativi, perch? definiscono la champagnitudine (esiste 'sta parola? Boh) in maniera essenziale: eccolo qui, lo Champagne. Un po' come quando metti alla prova lo chef chiedendogli di fare la pasta al burro: vediamo un po' quanto sei bravo. E succede che quello ti stupisce tirando fuori un gran piatto, fatto di semplici materie prime di alto livello, e classe nell'esecuzione.


La retro in tutta la sua dettagliata spiegazione

Ma questo brut tradition, si diceva: bello e godevole, profuma di agrume e pan brioche, in bocca ha la vena salata tipica del genere, con quel dosaggio zuccherino che non ? n? poco n? tanto, ma ? in grado di sedurre le masse. Nuovamente, questa ? la missione delle cuv?e basiche, essere facili senza tradire la verve della tipologia. E farsi bere con volutt?. Il tradition di Voirin non mi delude nemmeno stavolta col piccolo cambiamento nel dosaggio. Ce ne sono tanti come lui, ma questo ? il mio. In quanto scelto da me.

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[07/07/2023, 08:23] Com'? fatto un produttore di vino

Oggi ho mandato un mail ad un vigneron che mi fornisce cose buone. L'indirizzo mail solito ha un autorisponditore, ed ecco la risposta:


Tradotto liberamente: ciao ma ho avuto una bimba, la seconda (la famiglia cresce!) quindi fino ad agosto ho il mio da fare, parlane con mia sorella o col cantiniere (seguono email relativi). 

Ecco, quando si parla, molto, di differenza tra produzione artigianale e produzione industriale, io ci mettere pure questo, come distinguo: il vignaiolo (vignaiola, in questo caso) artigianale ? un umano, al quale capitano felicemente cose umane, quindi regolati di conseguenza, aspetta un attimo, parlane con chi mi sostituisce perch? adesso non posso. Questo, spero sia chiaro, ? alquanto meraviglioso, ? l'essenza dell'avere a che fare con umani, e non con misteriose SpA, o gente che in vigna ci va per sport, se ci va. E again spero sia chiaro, questa enoteca sceglie pervicacemente fornitori della prima specie.

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[06/09/2023, 12:32] Di ritorno da Pantelleria, assaggi e cogitazioni laterali


Pantelleria ? una terra aspra. Distante, ai confini meridionali dell'Europa, spazzata da un vento impietoso che non a caso ? all'origine del suo nome arabo. Terreno vulcanico, ovunque la lava spunta con le sue lame di pietra nera e affilata. Isola senza spiagge, circondata da scogli inaccessibili fatti della stessa lava che scartavetra le estremit? degli umani, i quali pensando di essere al mare cercano un punto dove, chess?, fare un tuffo. Molto meglio fare camminate in mezzo a quella natura, meglio il trekking. Le strade sono spesso strettissime e inerpicate, ricordano le single track road viste in Scozia, quando preghi di non trovare nessuno in direzione opposta, perch? non sapresti dove accostare. Ma cos? hai la scusa buona per percorrere quelle strade molto lentamente, per goderti i paesaggi spettacolari tutto intorno. Nei pochi giorni in cui ho pilotato la vettura noleggiata, ho tenuto praticamente sempre la seconda marcia. La terza quasi mai. La quarta e la quinta sono praticamente inutili. 

Il vigneto pantesco (di Pantelleria, cio?) ? fatto cos?.

Pantelleria ? una terra estrema e difficile, le piante della vite sono alberelli infossati a proteggersi dal vento, e sono un bel disagio da vendemmiare, l? in basso. Questa terra dove l'uomo ha dovuto creare residenze, i dammusi, fatti di mura spessissime a proteggersi dal caldo che diciamo africano per amore dell'iperbole ma qui lo ? davvero, siccome siamo davanti all'Africa, questa terra durissima produce uno dei vini pi? dolci, flessuosi, accoglienti, confortevoli e deliziosi del globo. 

Il Passito di Pantelleria sembra la reazione opposta al suo contesto, quasi a contraddire le premesse. Qui sostanzialmente c'? un'unica uva, il moscato di Alessandria o moscatellone o zibibbo, clone diverso dal piemontese moscato bianco di Canelli. Vinificato come vino secco, senza alcun residuo zuccherino, ha l'aromaticit? gradevole del vitigno con un carattere spiccato e, questo s?, direi territoriale, indomito. Nella versione passita tocca il suo vertice, come dicevo pare un negativo fotografico di quella terra.

La situazione produttiva enologica a Pantelleria non ? dissimile da quella del resto del mondo: esiste un artigianato encomiabile che propone passiti da tuffo al cuore, struggenti e sensazionali. Esiste anche qualche tipo di industria che fa numeri ed ? certamente pi? pittoresca e turistica, diciamo. Nelle loro cantine si trovano pi? facilmente etichette disponibili e milanesi imbruttiti. I vini della prima categoria sono eternamente introvabili, e pure la visita in cantina ? meno agevole ("venite pure ma vino non ce n'?"). Lascio al mio lettore indovinare quello che piace a me. A questo proposito, ecco un paio di assaggi.

Salvatore Murana
Produttore storico, amato, stimato, rispettato. Vini inappuntabili e densi non solo nella struttura della dolcezza, ma anche densi di suggestioni e richiami. Murana ha diverse versioni del suo passito, Martingana imperativo e solenne, Mueggen una pietra miliare, Turb? apparentemente pi? delicato. Gad? ? la versione secca della stessa uva, salino e ampio. Il "Creato" ? raro e prezioso, ora si beve il 1983 (non ? un refuso) perch? affina per decenni, letteralmente. Ho provato a chiedere il suo prezzo, e alla risposta ("costa come un biglietto aereo per Pantelleria") non ho ritenuto di fare altre domande. Certo, che meraviglioso privilegio averlo nel bicchiere, con quel colore brunito e il finale interminabile.

Gli assaggi da Murana.

I vigneti intorno.

Da Murana ? visitabile, tra l'altro, il giardino pantesco: costruzione circolare a proteggere, di solito, una pianta di agrume, che senza il riparo non potrebbe crescere.

La retro etichetta del Creato racconta gi? molto.

Mueggen ha un equilibrio perfetto tra frutta essiccata e note marine.

Salvatore Ferrandes
Ci vuole un po' di fortuna, nel caso di Ferrandes: per trovarlo, anche geograficamente intendo, e trovarlo disponibile perch? gli impegni che ha sono numerosi, il lavoro in vigna per esempio. E comunque ? un altro produttore che, dati i numeri, ha scarsissimo vino disponibile - abbiamo prenotato qualcosa, abbiamo incrociato le dita, ora speriamo. Il suo passito ha una tensione dolce struggente, tiene impegnato l'assaggiatore per mezz'ore col naso infilato nel bicchiere perch? ogni olfazione ? un nuovo riconoscimento, una nuance inedita. In bocca pressoch? infinito. 

La strada per arrivare da Ferrandes ? una cosa cos?.

Assaggio di grande intensit?, definitivamente.

La (micro) cantina di Ferrandes, solo acciaio, niente legno.

L'uva appassita, peraltro buonissima.

E gli altri che non nomino
Nei miei giri per cantine naturalmente ho visitato anche il fashion e il decadente, poi c'? quello che non risponde al telefono e quello che non risponde alla mail, tutti questi non li nomino essenzialmente perch? non ho voglia di grane. Io comunque consiglio, nei preparativi delle visite di cantina, di infilare sempre un produttore che potrei definire industriale, o modaiolo, quello che ha sempre vino e ha la struttura fatta apposta per accogliere l'enoturista: ? un tipo di conoscenza utile, didattica, spesso costoro hanno numerosi meriti, consentono la visione ampia e soprattutto consentono di fare la scelta finale, viste tutte le opzioni.
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[04/01/2023, 09:27] Aspettati l'inaspettato


In questi giorni ho scaricato tra le altre cose il Dolcetto d'Alba 2022 di Francesco Principiano. Produttore di formidabili nebbiolo e Barolo in Monforte, Principiano riesce a stupire pure con cose solo apparentemente piccole, come questo dolcetto.

La denominazione del dolcetto ? vasta e varia: Ovada, Alba, Dogliani, Acqui, Asti, e altre che dimentico perch? sono troppissime. Io sono un fan di Ovada, per molteplici motivi che hanno a che fare col chilometro zero (praticamente Ovada ? entroterra di Genova) e col fatto che l? la mia famiglia aveva vigneti, lo scorso millennio, e io facevo vendemmie e lavori connessi. Senza dire che molti Dolcetto di Ovada sono buoni come il pane - e a questo proposito ultimamente da un ovadese fatto assaggi molto interessanti, ma questo ? un altro discorso, e un altro post.

Il Dolcetto d'Alba di Principiano, dicevo. Si conosce bene, nel nostro giro, la triste storia del dolcetto albese: volentieri espiantato per far posto al nebbiolo che ? pi? figo e, ops, remunerativo, sta diventando raro (quello buono). Anche per questo ho preso al volo l'occasione di aggiungere il dolcetto agli altri rossi del produttore. E adesso scusate, mi faccio i complimenti da solo, ho fatto proprio bene: che meraviglia nel bicchiere. Floreale di violetta come da accademia dell'assaggio, frutti neri fitti, bocca succosissima e viva, tannini e un po' di agrume rosso su quel finale cos? langarolo, ruvido con simpatia. Un po' non te lo aspetti, ma vedi? Bisogna aspettarsi l'inaspettato. 

A voler dare punteggi io direi 87/100, in enoteca circa 11 euro, roba da prenderne a casse, ecco.

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[01/11/2023, 08:54] Intelligenza naturale

Probabilmente sapete gi? cosa sia Chat GPT, la miglior versione di intelligenza artificiale in grado di elaborare testi e semplicemente chattare sulla qualsiasi. Oggi ci siamo intrattenuti in una simpatica conversazione, e il risultato, direi, non ? niente male.

"Il vino naturale ? un tipo di vino che viene prodotto senza l'utilizzo di additivi artificiali o conservanti e con il minimo intervento possibile durante il processo di produzione. La fermentazione avviene generalmente con lieviti presenti naturalmente sull'uva, senza l'aggiunta di lieviti selezionati in laboratorio. Inoltre, tali vini spesso non vengono filtrati o chiarificati prima dell'imbottigliamento".

Con Chat GPT si accede facilmente con l'account Google, per chi non ha voglia di ulteriori login. E con il robot uso modi educati, perch? quando Skynet prender? il potere si ricorder? che sono una personcina a modo, e non mi sterminer?.

 

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[12/10/2022, 09:48] Aprire in caso di panettone


Nel campionato molto stagionale del vino da panettone, questo assaggio recente della Malvasia dolce di Camillo Donati sale agilmente sul podio. Annata 2017, quindi un po' di stratificazione, e dolcezza suadente, mielosa senza stanchezza. La rifermentazione naturale in bottiglia le d? un'effervescenza pimpante, adatta ad abbinarsi al lievitato butirroso di un panettone ricco. Attenzione solo al momento della stappatura, perch? il tappo (metallico) libera una gran quantit? di effervescenza - tenete il bicchiere molto vicino, non si sa mai. E soprattutto, sprecarne anche una goccia sarebbe un vero peccato. In enoteca sta sui venti euro, ed ? arrivato il momento: aprire in caso di panettone, ma provata pure su formaggi appena stagionati, una delizia.

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[09/04/2018, 07:01] Guide for Choosing a Good Dentist

If you have dental issues or complications, it is necessary that you find a good dentist who will take care of your needs. However, the issue is, there are many dentists the market today and settling for the best may be tricky. For this reason, you need to take time and find the?best dentist in Miami who will offer the type of services you require. Dentists have various types of services they offer. There are those who have specialized in a particular field while some are general dentists who deal with almost all dental issues. If you are looking for a dentist, here are quick factors that you can consider looking at so that you get the best dentist.

Check on Experience

First, when searching for a dentist to offer dental services to you, we recommend that you try checking out the experience of your prospective dentist. This is a crucial aspect to check on because the longer the experience, the more quality services the dentist will offer. A dentist who has been offering dental services for years will be well placed to handle your dental needs than one who has just started practicing. This is applicable because past experiences will help the dentist be in a position to handle and manage any dental complications.

Check on Specialization

Secondly, when you want to settle on the best dentist, it is essential that you first understand the kind of dental service you need. This will help you know the kind of dentist you need. Dentists have various services that they offer. Some offer specialized dental services, and that means you need to know exactly what you are seeking for.

Check on Training

With the increased need for dental services, some individuals will want to take advantage of that and start offering dental services but they are not qualified. Therefore, to avoid falling prey for such fake dentists, it?s essential that when searching for a dentist, you should check to know if the dentist is trained. The dentist should declare his or her qualifications and show you the documents which give evidence for that. This way, you will get dental services from dentists who have undergone proper training in dental health.

Consider the Reputation

When searching for a good dentist, it is also advisable that you consider knowing the reputation of your prospective dentist. You need to know how many successful cases of dental procedures the dentist has offered. Similarly, you need to know what people feel about the services that the dentist offers. This way, you will understand if the dentist will be suitable to offer dental services that you may need.…

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[08/26/2018, 05:19] Six Hints to Choose the Best Drug Rehab Nj

Addiction to the drug can ruin your life. It reaches a point where you want to get rid of the addiction, but you cant that easily. If you are at this juncture, you should visit a respected and reliable drug rehab NJ. An excellent drug rehab center will help you to stay away from drug or alcohol addiction. The hints as discussed below will help you to decide the best drug rehab NJ for your recovery.

Licensing

Perhaps, this is the first issue that you should reconsider before determining a drug rehabilitation center. Facilities that don’t have valid licenses might not help you to recover fully. Lack of a valid license means that the facility that you are visiting is not recognized by the authorities and might be operating against the law. Stay away from rehabs without licenses as they will only rob you of your hard earned money.
?

Treatment Procedures

The treatment protocols used at a facility might raise or reduce your chances of recovery. For instance, you should find out whether your chosen facility provides detox together with other therapies and counseling. When you come across a drug rehab?that offers such treatment, then you will be on the right path to quick recovery. High-end facilities also offer yoga when they think its necessary.

Highly Qualified Staff

The level of experience of the employees working at the rehab center that you choose might impact negatively or positively on your recovery. If you decide to go for an inpatient facility make sure that that the staff are available around the clock. You should also check whether the staff are registered by the relevant authorities to confirm that they have the necessary experience.

High Patient Staff Ration

If you get admitted to a rehab center with few staffs, then you might not get the attention that you want. Rehab centers that have more doctors and nurses will give you the care that you need for quick recovery.

Aftercare Treatment

Once you are done with your rehabilitation program, it’s essential that you are closely monitored to reduce your odds of succumbing to drug abuse again. The aftercare you require varies depending on your requirements as well as the degree of addiction. However, it’s suggested that you see your doctor weekly or once in a fortnight after leaving the rehab center to chat about your progress and the difficulties that you might be encountering.

Pricing and Insurance

Most people don’t know that rehabilitation therapies can cost you a fortune. For this cause, you should find out how much the treatment will cost in advance to avoid nasty surprises. In most cases, expensive rehabilitation centers offer the best care. If you have a valid medical insurance policy, you should discover whether your chosen facility accepts it and how much it can cover.

If you are having an uphill task trying to get away from drugs, it’s better to get treatment sooner than later. You will come across a number of drug rehab NJ centers to pick from online and to make a sound decision keep the hints as explained above in mind.…

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[08/23/2018, 14:03] Coming up With a Weekly Meal Plan

Healthy eating is essential for your general well-being. The type of food you eat plays a critical role in determining the health status of your body. Most health or diet experts advice one to take in a balanced diet to keep their bodies in the perfect shape. The Dad Quarters have some of the best reviews and health advice that can help keep you in good shape. Your food should be made up of proteins, vitamin, carbs, and irons.

There are a number of food deficiency illnesses you can contract if you fail to consume a balanced diet. The most common ones include malnutrition, rickets, and scurvy. Most of these conditions are usually common among kids. Failure to take in a balanced diet can also weaken your body?s defense system.

Your body will not be able to fight certain conditions, and this will leave you weak or falling sick most of the time. Proteins play an essential role in the growth and development of your body. They do help increase muscle mass. Carbohydrates help provide your body with energy to carry out some activities. They act as fuel to your body.

Vitamins boost your immune system and improve your body functions. You can find all these nutrients in different foods. One thing you can do to make sure you consume a balanced diet is come up with your own menu that has all types of meals. This might be a difficult task for many. Here is how you can come up with a weekly meal plan that is made up of a balanced diet.

Look for Recipes

The first thing you should do when coming up with your home menu is to look for recipes. Look for recipes used in making different types of meals. Make sure the different types of meals make up a balanced diet. Getting different recipes will help make your job more comfortable when it comes to creating a weekly meal plan.

Sort your Recipes

The next thing you should do is sort out the different recipes according to the nutrients contained in them. One that is used for cooking a protein-rich meal should be separated from one that is used to prepare a meal with any other type of nutrient. Make sure that each day you have a meal rich in a specific type of nutrient.

Stock your Kitchen

You can now stock your kitchen with the different types of foods so that you can have easy access to them. Failing to do so may see you change your meal plan because you are not able to reach the type of meal for that particular day. Do not overstock because some of them may go bad quickly. Cook the perishables first.…

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[08/22/2018, 16:17] Facts About Provillus

This is one of the hair supplement used in preventing hair loss. Hair loss is common in both men and women. This condition is associated with family history, hormonal changes, and certain medical conditions. It is also caused by scalp infections such ringworms. Drugs uses in treating cancer, arthritis, heart problems and blood pressure are the ones that cause hair loss. The other causes of this issue include emotional shock, excessive weight loss, a high fever, and radiation therapy. Provillus is purely natural and it can be used by both women and men. Apart from preventing hair loss, this product is effective in promoting regret of the lost hair. Again, it has complex ingredients that prevent hair loss.

Ingredients of Provillus

It contains natural ingredients such as pumpkin seeds, zinc, propylene glycol, nettle root, water biotin, and vitamin B6. These components are beneficial for hair growth and for the hair follicles? health. Again, they are well combined to bring the desired results. Provillus works by providing vital elements and necessary?nutrients needed by the hair.

Vitamin 6 is one of the essential vitamins for maintaining a healthy hair. Its natural character is helpful for reducing side effects and allergic reactions. It should be used regularly to restore weak hair, prevent hair loss and make hair thicker. Individuals who take this supplement regularly can enjoy their hair coverage after three months. You can get many customers testimonials in the internet.

 

Advantages of Provillus

  • It is effective in promoting hair growth in bald spots and other hair thinning areas
  • Its active ingredients have potent hair regrowth properties
  • It shows positive results after a few months or weeks
  • It has become very popular due to its many positive reviews and effectiveness.
  • It contains essential vitamins, and minerals making it easy for use.

Negative Effects of Provillus

  • You will be required to use this product continuously for you to enjoy its benefits
  • It can cause some side effects when used in higher amounts than indicated. It can lead to a feeling of?light-headedness or dizziness, and swelling of tongue and lips. Individuals who experience these side effects are advised to consult a doctor.

How is Provillus Used?

You should take one capsule every day. It should be taken with food such as breakfast. It is very hard to get it for the local drugstores. It can be purchased from its official website.…

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[07/07/2018, 03:48] Factors to Consider When Choosing Pet Food

Age of the Pet

Age is an important factor to consider when choosing your pet’s food. Your pet needs to be fed appropriate food for his or her age. This is important as a certain amount of calories and proteins are needed for your pet to grow to adulthood properly. By providing your pet with his important current life stage diet, you will be meeting his growth requirements.

There are different types of pet food ranging from those for young pets, adult, and senior pet. If it?s your first time buying packaged food, read the labels to know what components a certain pet food has.

Consider the Breed Size

Choose the pet food based on the size of your pet’s breed. Young pets will need to consume well-balanced nutrients for immune functions, healthy skin, bone development, and growth. Most pet foods are usually categorized by specific breed factors which only include breed size since there is no other major difference between breeds.

Small breed pets have fast metabolism rates compared to medium and large breeds. That is why small pet breeds need more fatty nutrients than others.

Check for Food Allergies

Be extremely careful while choosing the food for a pet with thin coat quality, sensitive skin or redness of the skin. Food allergies are most common in dogs so if your pet is a dog lookout for allergy signs like scratching.

Don’t confuse food intolerance with food allergy; this is because lactose intolerance and poor digestion are as a result of food allergy.

Feeding your dog sources of carbohydrates and protein for 3 months triggers a strong immune response that helps alleviate allergic reactions.

Dietary Supplement

If you are feeding your pet a complete commercial balanced diet, you might not require adding a nutritional supplement like vitamins. However, with old pets, of a particular breed or with a certain disease condition may need a dietary supplementation. Check with your veterinarian whether supplementing your pet with fish oils, additional anti-oxidants or joins supplement could improve your pet’s health.

Reproductive Status of a Pet

A pet that is neutered or spayed has minimal maintenance energy requirements. It is, therefore, recommend to reduce their calories intake by approximately 25-30 percent from the usual recommendations.

If a bag of your dry pet food recommendations is feeding approximately one cup daily, you should only feed 2/3 to 3/4 of the same cup daily. Always consult the veterinarian while changing the diet and before starting a pet on any weight loss program.

Is the Food Easy to Digest?

Just like humans proper digestion is very important and affects the pets well being too. If essential nutrients in the dog food are not digestible, then look for another food. You can determine whether you have the right food by checking how well your pet defecates.it will tell you whether what is in the food bonds well with the pet.

Expiration Date

Packaging and manufacturing of the pet food products is also an important factor that you must consider. Pet food has certain health limitation that comes with food use and quality. This involves both packaging and the pet food. Go for pet food that has packaging date labeled.

Food with short shelf life should be consumed faster than those with a longer shelf life. This ensures …

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[07/06/2018, 11:45] Do You Need Massage Therapy?

Going for massage therapy is the best way to relax. If you have been working very hard, then you need to look for a way to relieve the stress and tension. When going for massage therapy, it is important to look for a skilled and experienced therapist.

A Massage therapist in Glasgow will help you in achieving the full benefits of the therapy. When choosing a massage spa, make sure that you look for factors like hygiene and also the massage methods that they use. Here are signs that you need to go to massage therapy:

You are tired

Massage therapy is very important in helping you relieve fatigue. Working six days a week can be very tiring. You need to take one day to work and go for a massage. The therapy will help you in relieving fatigue.

When we work in many ways, our body builds up tension in various parts of the body like the neck, shoulders, back and also limps. It is important to look for a way to get rid of this tension so that you can relieve fatigue. When you relieve fatigue through massage, you will increase productivity at work.

You are in pain

If you are dealing with pain from an injury or ailment, then massage therapy will help you. Going to therapy will help you in healing the affected areas. This is better than taking painkillers that might be detrimental in the long run.

The massage therapy will encourage the flow of blood to different parts of the body. With a proper flow of blood in the body, it will be easy to relieve pain.

You have poor posture

It is possible to improve your posture just by going to the gym. Improving your posture is the best way to live a healthy lifestyle. If you have a desk job, then you might be having problems with your posture.

The good news is that you can improve your posture by going for a massage. The massage therapist will work on your back muscles and help you in restoring your posture.

You need to relax

Living a high-stress life is not good for your health. You need to make sure that you live a stress-free life. The only way to relax is to go for a massage once in a while.

Going for massage will help you to relax and avoid tension that comes with stressful activities. Living a stress-free life means that you will live a healthy life.…

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[06/19/2018, 04:16] Tips for Finding and Knowing the Health Status of a Pet

If you like to own a pet, then there are things that you need to consider so that you get a healthy pet. It is not wise to rush out and buy the first pet you get, buying a pet involves more than just the looks.

But for first-time owners, there are simple but essential things that you should inquire from your seller before making the purchase. These necessary inquiries include the pet?s health and treatment record. However, before you start asking about the health of a pet, some people do not know how to find a pet to buy. If you are looking for your dream pet, then written here is how to go about it, and how to know if the pet is healthy.

Google

If you have been looking for a pet to buy and you have not yet found a seller, then you should try searching on the internet. Many people are not aware of how powerful the internet has become, now in a few seconds you can find information about the different pet sellers available in town.

And not only will you find this information on the web, but you will also be able to see in pictures those pets that are available for sale.

Reviews

If you feel overwhelmed by the information you find from different pet selling websites, then you need to read reviews so that you can know what the previous buyers are saying. There are pet sellers who take pride in their work and always have the best pet breeds in the market, and these people even make follow-ups to ensure you are bonding, treating, and feeding your pet as suggested. Buying a pet from a seller who loves his work is a guaranteed way to find a healthy pet.

Treatment Records

If you have found your dream pet, then the next thing that you must do is ask for the previous treatment record. The veterinary who treats these pets is supposed to keep the records of each the treatments.

If you do not ask for these records, then the chances of buying an unhealthy pet increase significantly.

Find a Veterinary

If you are not sure about the health of the pet you want to buy, then it is essential that you find a veterinary. An excellent vet will run some test and will inform you of the health status of your new pet.…

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[05/22/2018, 09:51] Best Drug Rehab Treatment Facilities

Most drug addicts are isolated from the rest of the community because they are regarded as people who are living a lifestyle that they chose. What most us do not apprehend is that; drug addiction is a disease. Once you buy the idea that drug addiction is a disease, you will be able to help people who are facing this problem. We should all fight together to have a drug free society. In fact, addiction has made many families break, young kids, to get involved in socially unaccepted activities like thuggery and prostitution. That is why there are many drug rehab treatment facilities all over the world. These facilities are working hard to hell those people that are engulfed in this drug addiction menace. You are probably reading this post because you are the victim or you want to help someone you know. Actually, the first step towards healing this problem is by self-acceptance. We just want to let you know that you are on the right track and doing the right thing. Our guide will help you to find the best drug rehab treatment facilities within your locality. Keep reading in order to make the right selection.

Funding

Most of these facilities are private and you need to pay for the services that you will be offered. After conceiving your idea to go for a rehab, you should keep in mind the type of financial support you will need. Always inquire about the cost of service in each facility before making up your mind. Actually, several programs for drug rehabilitation accept the insurance. If you have a health insurance cover, consider shortlisting those facilities that accept the insurance. This will make your healing process very simple. At such a situation, you need maximum concentration and less stress since most people are willing to leave drug but they get back due to lack of funds. So make sure you choose a facility that accepts an insurance if you have one. And if you do not have once, there are facilities that offer cheap yet quality services.

 

Availability of a Drug Detox

 

For alcohol and opiate addicts, they are required to attend any detox program available. The right facilities for this kind of people are one that offers a detox program. Actually, for those who do not know what a detox means; it is a situation when your body is suffering from withdrawal. Withdrawal symptoms are normally due to lack of any drug in your body system. In most cases, alcohol addict suffers from seizures. It is, therefore, good for you to choose a treatment facility that embraces detox programs for a better healing process.

 

Aftercare

 

You need to focus on what happens after the rehab is finished. Statistics show that quite a good number of former addicts return to their past ways due to lack of aftercare services. If you are ready to do away with drug addiction, make sure you choose a drug rehab facility that monitors its patients even after the treatment is done. You can ascertain this by getting referrals from a friend and family members. After your recovery process, you surely need an aftercare program to keep you on track. And any facility offering this is a sure bet for a permanent …

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