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Mondo Di Vino
Mondo Di Vino





[09/01/2019, 17:57]  Burning Man At 50 - Five Gen ?? Women Who Are Changing Wine and the World
Reporting from Black Rock City, August 31, 2036...


This is Leia Rippley; I am now 85. And as they say, 85 is the new 30, thanks to nano-extenders and the little solar generator that keeps my heart pumping. With global warming, there is plenty of sun, and Black Rock City, with its average temperature, this time of the year, at 125?F, my heart has another 40-50 years. That is if Terra does. Fortunately, I also had a vortex personal cooling rib-cage installed in 2025, and have only had to rebuild it three times. But, it?s all good, I?m cool.


First, I must report that we have succeeded in reducing greatly the number of men in the world. Women now outnumber men 15,000-to-1. With a world population of 15 billion, there are 1 million men left. They are used mainly for their semen. But we are showing great advances in the production of synth-sperm, and within a generation we?ll have no need for men for that purpose. Of course, they are now a vanishing species, having endangered most of the living world for the 30,000 years in which they were dominant. We women have evolved, and no longer have the emotional need for males. We supply one another with greater warmth and comforts, and surely our more intimate acts have a better balance, in which both (or more) involved in the act enjoy satisfaction over a period of time lasting longer than 5 minutes.

But enough about me. I?m at Burning Man 50, and this year we are actually going to burn a real man. Dick. He was found to be genetically deficient in empathy and way below the intelligence quotient that is needed in order to support the resources to keep him alive. Fortunately, he died in his sleep and his will stipulated that he be cremated. How retro! So, we?re going to light him up! 1 down, 999,999 to go!

I?m interviewing the new generation, Gen ??, about current wine preferences and practices. There is no longer a wine industry, the 3-tier distribution syndicate having been purged along with the 5,000,000 or so men who worked (or wrote) in the wine trade. As well, p.r. folks are long gone, having been replaced (and improved) by the recent generation of AI, known as AI-?. They know who to send notes to, they no longer ?curate? anything and have eliminated wine reviews, wine scores, bloggers and anyone who ever wrote about wine using the words ?blown away? or ?p?t-nat.? Unfortunately, a few women were accidentally eradicated in the extirpation, but the scrubs were able to gather enough zDNA and they will be reconstituted in the future.

At Black Rock, Burning Man has taken on a new dimension in its maturity. No longer are there outdoor seminars with people droning on endlessly about rock music, conceptual art or the glories of grenache. How boring! Instagram is long gone, cell phones are long obsolete, having been replaced with comm-imbeds. It is now impossible to take a ?selfie.? Well, there is one way around and that is to stare in a mirror and blink one?s eyes in proper sequence to ?record? an image. Oh, yes, cameras are long gone too. It?s a great time to be alive. And thank Bacco, the body still craves alcohol.

Five women who are changing wine and the world:

?I?m the winemaker in the Femaly. This year, after The Burn, me and my team are heading to Sardinia to work with robot jellyfish where we will make a retro version of late-harvest Ansonica by taking the harvested grapes down underwater 20 feet and letting them dehydrate. It will be great fun to take grapes underwater to dry them out, yes? Well, after last year, when we made Petit-Syrah ?booch, which reminded one of the elders of something they used to call ros?, we had to ?notch it up. It was very fragrant, and at 15% very low in alcohol. My team makes all the wine for our FEM-clutch, which is 35 strong. We are all here at camp, providing liquid refreshment and mind-healing. I like wine, but I don?t love wine. Consumerism (and the last gap of Boomer-Gen) in the early 21st century all but destroyed the world. We like a light touch with the world, and with our wine. We constantly come in for our red wines at under 18%, and source mainly from the Okanagan and the Tongass AVA?s. We get a lot of low yield (7-10 tons per acre) grapes that consistently come in at low brix of 45-50. Of course, it?s a little trick with the late harvest grapes in early August, if we have a stuck fermentation, some of us cannot come to Black Rock. But in a year or so, we?ll leave a couple of the Male-bots to ?man? the AI community and make sure their batteries don?t get too low. Then we can all come to Burning Man, which is our big yearly holiday. And also, when we show the new releases of vin-?booch.? ? Oktavia Legwynn


?I?m a performer and my energy is attuned to the Jovian lunar microwave transmissions. For that reason, I?m a proponent of the Fierce Jovian Primal-Flo. I don?t know if one would call it wine as older Genz might know it, historically, but it?s a natural extension of the flo-mentation process, via microwave transmission through space. We?ve come up with some great vintages, and we are really excited about piercing the space-time continuum to gather similar transmissions from other galaxies millions of light years away. Imagine having a ?wine? that was made 35 million years ago?? ? Enola Euporie


?Now that Black Rock City is one of the coolest places on earth, we conkokted a vineyard, out from the Playa, near the hills below Granite Peak. An old Gen-X-er, who made a wallop of money on cryptocurrency in 2019 gave us access to the land, and we quantum-grafted rare and ancient Cabernet Sauvignon grapes onto the local bramble bushes. It?s been an interesting union between the native and the endangered. We opted for a protracted abridgement for the fermentation stage, so we could have the wine ready for Burning Man. In the lab back in Alameda, we congenitally interweaved in the requisite oak aging gene, which gave us a wine that had sexual fluidity - young but ready, mature but without the need for time. As most of us already know, here on Terra, time isn?t something we have a lot of faith in having. The future is dead, but that doesn?t mean we have to drink that crappy chenin plonk the masses mix with their aloe-gels. Man, those people don?t know how to drink. Cabernet, the endangered wine, is my favorite drink as we watch the asteroids hit the playa.? -Kalima ?ndringer


?When we went to France, we had no idea that we would be making wine with cannabis. After all, that phase passed pretty fast in the 2020-2024 period of dRrevolution. People were more interested in getting a home than getting high. They wanted stability. They eventually shuttled most of the politicians to Mars. And brought back the farmers. Yes, we all suffered during those years and marijuana went the way of tattoos and twitter, into the dustbin of history.

?But one in our klatsch remembered something his mother had told him, that it was good for the pains of childbirth. So, we decided to try an experi-ferment. We were in the Montrachet vineyards when an ancient woman came from her cave and offered us food and drink. Mixing a little of the goo we had from our klatsch-mate into the white wine, it was an X-ALT-ation. And that was how Chanvr?-Montrachet came into being. It is being served at the Flying French Nun?s Enkampm?nt, have you tried it yet?? - Lyra-Mae Temp?te


?I was born with male genitalia, but my zDNA revealed I was meant to be a woman. My mothers were very understanding, and I?m glad they didn?t kill me before the 3-week trial period passed. Eventually, through Femtotechnology, the useless appendage decorticated.

?What my two mothers didn?t tell me, until I was old enough, was that their families were large landowners (and winemakers) in California, near Modesto Beach. From what I can tell, by culling through quantum-fiche files, my family made most of the wine for the then-United States. They also made a lot of money and eventually moved to Mars, where they started the largest distillation factory off-world. The winery was since converted to a desalinization plant, and the family quintupled their fortune, now worth over ?8 quadrillion TaoTao (1/5 of all the human wealth on earth).

?I have this project with my six life-partners that we call ?Seveneves? (all of us have different zDNA profiles, reflecting the widest degree of cultural diversity that is possible on Terra). When people wanted to get wine 25 years ago, they went to a store to buy it. The store got it from a larger warehouse, who got it from a large wine company. It made the product ridiculously expensive, and it made people like my family enormously wealthy. Me and my mates now aim to make sure everyone, from Luna base to Mars to Eos, can have wine with a wide range of cultural zDNAversity, and for a fair price. Tonight, we are sponsoring the Big Burn (Sayonara, Dick!), and everyone goes away from the Playa, when Burning Man is finished, with a 7-pack of the iconic and rare Seveneves Black Rock Barefoot. It?s our little way of giving back.? - Archer Gallo




From Black Rock and Alph-Om epicenter -Good Night and a Good Burn to all! - Leia Rippley





wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W

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[08/29/2019, 22:47] Cartoline dal 910mo Meeting VG @ A Spurcacciun-a ? Savona ? Patron Claudio e Pervinca Tiranini, Chef Simone Perata

Tappa estiva imprescinbile del nostro Roadshow of Excellence quella al Ristorante A Spurcacciun-a del Mare Hotel di Savona. Poco tempo fa vi avevamo raccontato l’ascesa inesorabile del locale grazie alla cucina proposta dallo chef Simone Perata e agli importanti investimenti dei fratelli Tiranini, Claudio e Pervinca. Siamo tornati con gli Amici Gourmet, come sempre qui numerosissimi, per uno dei nostri pranzi sulla splendida terrazza del locale, una delle location estive pi? suggestive del panorama gourmet nazionale. Una degustazione di alto livello impreziosita dalla presenza al nostro tavolo di Claudio Tiranini, che si ? accomodato con noi per tutto il pranzo. Qui la nostra esperienza raccontata nel dettaglio…

Archivio storico reportage:

->?Meeting del 22 luglio 2007
->?Meeting del 13 luglio 2009
->?Meeting del 1? agosto 2011
->?Meeting del 30 luglio 2012
->?Meeting del 29 luglio 2013
->?Meeting del 4 agosto 2014
->?Meeting del 1 agosto 2016
->?Meeting del 31 luglio 2017
->?Meeting del 6 Agosto 2018
->?Reportage del 19 Luglio 2019

La squadra

Patron:?Claudio e Pervinca Tiranini

Lo staff di cucina

Chef:?Simone Perata
Sous chef:?Gianluigi Erme
Pastry chef:?Mario Manfredini e Costanza Bo

Lo staff di sala

Ma?tre:?Giuseppe D?Angelo?
Secondo ma?tre:?Mattia Valentino?
Sommelier:?Michelangelo Raffa?

Il tavolo Amici Gourmet

Il nostro men? personalizzato

Abbinamento Vini
Nei meeting utilizziamo i vini messi a disposizione dai nostri Partner.

Aperitivo

Il patron Claudio Tiranini all’opera

Ricci!

VG presenta la prima etichetta che andremo a degustare

Franciacorta Brut Millesimato 2013 – Lo Sparviere

Il brindisi

Mini sfere di Negroni e Caipirinha

Mini cannolo siciliano brandacuj?n?e pistacchi

Acciuga ripiena alla ligure, la sua lisca croccante e gel di limone

Conetto al Piment?n de la Vera, formaggetta di Stella e pesto

Croccante al piment d’espelette, anguilla glassata e yuzu

Croccante al topinambur – Scorzonera marinata con pickled alla camomilla

Piattooo!

Jalape?o, pomodoro, cozze, gelato alle olive taggiasche

Il servizio della prossima portata

Kitsch Tea

Juighissa 2009 Vernaccia di Oristano Doc – Cantina della Vernaccia

Bottarga e sedano

Anche Claudio si siede al tavolo con noi per un altro brindisi insieme

Franciacorta Ros? Monique – Lo Sparviere

Pane

Tipologia di pane: sfogliato alle olive taggiasche; focaccina; panino integrale con cereali; grissini all’olio extra vergine d’oliva.

Olio extra vergine d’oliva Alberti

In accompagnamento, burro al pomodoro e origano, alla barbabietola, bianco salato

Pomodoro cuore di bue

Lo chef Simone Perata ci descrive il piatto successivo

Ostrica nella roccia

Consomm? di gambero e foglie di limone in accompagnamento alla prossima portata

Lo chef Simone Perata imbocca VG

Gambero imboccato

Gnocchi di patate quarantine alla piastra ripieni di ciupin

Metodo Classico Trento Doc 2007 – Ferrari

Dietro le quinte…

Risotto Carnaroli Riserva San Massimo scampi, zucchine trombetta, agrumi

Laud?ri Chardonnay Sicilia Doc – Baglio del Cristo di Campobello

Tonno, salsa barbecue, curry verde, zucchine trombetta

Trancio di centrolofo viola, zucchine trombetta, limone amaro e codium

Maurizio Zanella 2006 Sebino Rosso Igt – Ca’ Del Bosco

Agnello di pecora brigasca, dragoncello, yogurt di pecora, fagioli di Pigna

Gin Tonic con Citadelle Gin e East Imperial tonic water della Compagnia dei Caraibi

Pistacchio, albicocche, shiso

Cioccolato, caff?, lampone, gorgonzola

Caff? Illy e coccole finali

Tipologia piccola pasticceria: cioccolatino olio extra vergine e basilico; pralin? di mandorle tostate al lime.

Mousse ai lamponi

Macaron al pepe rosa e pompelmo rosa

Mini tarte au citron?

Cin-cin!

Un grande GRAZIE a tutti!

Per la prossima tappa aspettiamo anche te!

Consulta il calendario eventi qui e iscriviti!

Viaggiatore Gourmet – Viaggiare, conoscere, esserci!

Partner della 910esima edizione Meeting di Altissimo Ceto

Ristorante A Spurcacciun-A del Mare Hotel
17100 Savona
Via Nizza, 41
Tel. (+39) 019 862263
Chiuso domenica sera e luned?
E-mail:?info@marehotel.it
Sito internet:?www.aspurcacciun-a.it

I prossimi meeting di Altissimo Ceto:

www.altissimoceto.it/meeting-eventi/

Essere un nostro associato significa ricevere inviti personali per oltre 100 eventi (annuali) imperdibili che organizziamo per i nostri soci, un ricco calendario di eventi settimanali (aperitivi, pranzi, cene, serate mixology, degustazioni di grandi vini e di cibi rari e preziosi) privati ed esclusivi (Roadshow of Excellence Tour), tappe ufficiali che in Italia ogni anno vengono ospitate dalla migliore selezione di tutti i 10?tre stelle, dei 39?due stelle e da una buona parte dei 318 ristoranti stellati Michelin, oltre che da una attenta selezione di Hotel 5 ***** stelle, SPA resort e relais selezionati tra i pi? prestigiosi e rappresentativi.

Breaking News – Eventi Enogastronomici esclusivi. (Media Partner) Sponsored By Amici Gourmet Network esclusivo di appassionati Gourmet.

L'articolo Cartoline dal 910mo Meeting VG @ A Spurcacciun-a ? Savona ? Patron Claudio e Pervinca Tiranini, Chef Simone Perata proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/29/2019, 00:52] Cartoline dal 909mo Meeting VG @ Ristorante Oseleta del Villa Cordevigo Wine Relais ? Cavaion Veronese (VR) ? Chef Giuseppe D?Aquino

Il nostro Roadshow Of Excellence in compagnia dei nostri associati continua dal Ristorante Oseleta di Villa Cordevigo, un meraviglioso Wine Relais immerso nella campagna veronese, a pochi chilometri dal Lago di Garda: un?affascinante dimora risalente al 1700, circondata da una tenuta di cento ettari di vigneti e oliveti appartenenti all?azienda Villabella. Il Ristorante, ospitato nella barchessa della villa, ha ottenuto il riconoscimento della stella Michelin nel 2013 con lo chef Giuseppe D’Aquino, all’Oseleta dal 2010. Durante il pranzo con gli Amici Gourmet, iniziato nello splendido giardino per l’aperitivo e concluso con una merenda godereccia, sono emersi a pieno i due tratti distintivi di questo luogo magico, la calorosa accoglienza e la grande cucina, fatta di selezionatissime materie prime, accostamenti interessanti e una costante e spiccata golosit?. Qui il nostro consueto racconto dettagliato…

Archivio storico reportage:

->?Reportage del 7 Marzo 2014
->?Meeting del 7 Ottobre 2017
->?Meeting del 4 Agosto 2018

La squadra

Patron: Famiglie Delibori e Cristoforetti

Lo staff del resort

General Manager: Lorenza Delibori?
Resident Manager: Nicola Apuzzo?
Bar Manager: Lorenzo Bizjak?
Capo ricevimento: Dalila Schirra?
Chef concierge: Paolo Consolini?
Spa Manager: Serenella Preto?

Sales & Marketing: Arianna Azzolini?

Lo staff di cucina

Chef: Giuseppe D?Aquino
Sous chef: Marco Marras
Pastry chef: Nicol? Moratti

Lo staff di sala

Ma?tre/sommelier: Ioan Acris
Chef de rang: Francesco Morici, Daniele Gagliardi, Elia Trevisan, Mirko Birro

Giunti a destinazione

Villa Cordevigo per secoli ? stata la residenza di storiche e nobili famiglie, le quali hanno apportato magnifiche migliorie artistiche nei sontuosi saloni del palazzo, arricchendoli di affreschi ed opere d?arte. Dopo un ambizioso progetto di restauro, che ha mantenuto immutata l?anima della Villa, questo luogo incomparabile ? diventato uno dei pi? belli Hotel d?Italia, ricco di charme, arte e storia. Villa Cordevigo offre anche quello che ? il perfetto connubio tra lusso e lavoro: due sale meeting attrezzate sono la soluzione ideale per eventi.

La piscina

Gli interni

La suite di VG

Il camino

Il benvenuto del resort

La sala da bagno

La vasca

Amenities

Camere e suite

Lontana da quelli che sono gli standard tradizionali, Villa Cordevigo offre ai suoi ospiti un soggiorno incantato in una delle 34 camere e suite dislocate nella Villa padronale e nelle due ali laterali denominate barchesse. Ognuna di esse ? diversa dalle altre e offre al proprio interno la raffinatezza dello stile del 19esimo secolo e la bellezza del design moderno.

Essentia SPA

La SPA offre ai propri clienti un percorso di benessere olistico all?interno del quale ? possibile trovare un?ampia gamma di trattamenti sia per il corpo che per il viso e un’attenta selezione di cosmetici naturali di qualit? molto elevata ed oli vegetali spremuti a freddo i cui principi attivi assicurano una duratura azione riequilibrante. La SPA dispone di sauna finlandese, sauna a raggi infrarossi, bagno turco, vasche idromassaggio, docce emozionali, massaggi e trattamenti ayurvedici, palestra e sale relax con tisaneria.

La palestra

Ci dirigiamo verso il Ristorante Oseleta

Dettagli floreali

Il tavolo Amici Gourmet

Il nostro men? personalizzato

Abbinamento Vini
Nei meeting utilizziamo i vini messi a disposizione dai nostri Partner.

Aperitivo in giardino

Franciacorta Extra Brut – Le Marchesine

In arrivo gli stuzzichini

Foie gras, mascarpone, nocciola, ciliegia?

Mela in osmosi, gambero, caviale?

Burro salato, acciuga, pane – Ananas marinato al rum, scampo?

Lo chef Giuseppe D’Aquino ci d? il suo benvenuto

Acqua Filette, Premium Water Partner del nostro?Roadshow

Acqua?Filette?Decisamente?Frizzante, Delicatamente Frizzante e Naturalmente Naturale

Vintage Collection 2013 Franciacorta Dosage Z?ro – Ca’ Del Bosco

Pane

Tipologia di pane: pagnotta di farina rimacinata a pietra; pagnotta 100% integrale con semi.

Piattooo!

Ostrica, crema di lardo, aglio orsino

Asparago, uovo, kefir, amaranto

Tartare di capasanta, pinoli

Tartare di capasanta, pinoli, spuma di jalape?o

La portata ? ultimata in sala

Tartare di salmerino alpino, caviale Beluga, salsa al bergamotto, granita alle erbe

Salmone, nocciola, testa di gambero rosso

Scampo alla busara, guacamole

Wagyu, scampo, polvere d’olio, salsa verde

Il piatto ? completato al tavolo

Zuppa di cozze

Heuforia Umbria Bianco Igt – Tenuta Campospino

Pomodoro, gambero rosso, limone, crema di latte affumicato

Pasta, patate, ricci

Ad?nzia 2016 Sicilia Bianco Doc – Baglio del Cristo di Campobello

Merluzzo, rapa rossa, ciliegia, pil-pil al lime

Dentice, salsa alla mugnaia, cappero candito

Rosso di Campospino Umbria Rosso Igt – Tenuta Campospino

Agnello, verza fermentata, salsa di soia

Moscow Mule

Vino filtrato dolce – Vini Passiti Bragagnolo

Fresh green

Caff? e coccole finali

Tipologia caff?: Monorigine Guatemala Antigua Pastores, Torrefazione?A&G 1938 Torino Italia S.r.l.

Tipologia piccola pasticceria: marshmallow frutti rossi e polvere di lamponi; tartufo liquirizia e caff?; rocher al lampone, cocco, albicocca; pralina all?ananas e verbena.

Lo chef serve la merenda presentata in pentola d’oro Agnelli

Et voil?!

Spaghetto, aglio, olio, bottarga, peperoncino

Merenda per tutti!

Un grande GRAZIE a tutti!

Per la prossima tappa aspettiamo anche te!

Consulta il calendario eventi qui e iscriviti!

Viaggiatore Gourmet – Viaggiare, conoscere, esserci!

Partner della 909esima edizione Meeting di Altissimo Ceto

Ristorante Oseleta de Villa Cordevigo Wine Relais
37010 Cavaion Veronese (VR)
Loc. Cordevigo
Tel. (+39) 045 723 52 87
Fax (+39) 045 626 84 82
Chiuso il marted?
E-mail:?info@ristoranteoseleta.it
Sito internet:?www.ristoranteoseleta.it

I prossimi meeting di Altissimo Ceto:

www.altissimoceto.it/meeting-eventi/

Essere un nostro associato significa ricevere inviti personali per oltre 100 eventi (annuali) imperdibili che organizziamo per i nostri soci, un ricco calendario di eventi settimanali (aperitivi, pranzi, cene, serate mixology, degustazioni di grandi vini e di cibi rari e preziosi) privati ed esclusivi (Roadshow of Excellence Tour), tappe ufficiali che in Italia ogni anno vengono ospitate dalla migliore selezione di tutti i 10?tre stelle, dei 39?due stelle e da una buona parte dei 318 ristoranti stellati Michelin, oltre che da una attenta selezione di Hotel 5 ***** stelle, SPA resort e relais selezionati tra i pi? prestigiosi e rappresentativi.

Breaking News – Eventi Enogastronomici esclusivi. (Media Partner) Sponsored By Amici Gourmet Network esclusivo di appassionati Gourmet.

L'articolo Cartoline dal 909mo Meeting VG @ Ristorante Oseleta del Villa Cordevigo Wine Relais ? Cavaion Veronese (VR) ? Chef Giuseppe D?Aquino proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/25/2019, 23:19] Regarding Wine, Writing and ?Influencers?
With time comes reflection. What makes a life? What are the influences, positive and negative? What shapes one?s thoughts, preferences, aspirations? What gives one greater fear, or the occasional gloomy feeling? What offers greater clarity and purpose? How does this little microcosm relate to the larger, more immediate world of the everyday? What is it about wine and writing about wine that fills one?s butterfly net?

The bubble of the wine world and the words that swirl about in that rarified atmosphere are but a metaphor for life?s greater meaning. This is my view. It, and the role of the influencer, are the basis of this personal essay.

It began as a casual conversation with a fellow wine writer. Among the thoughts exchanged were a remonstration that we both found many of the wine writers we've followed over the years, of late, made us feel worse at the end of their articles and posts. ?Why do wine writers, acknowledged influencers, make me feel crummy when I read them?? I have often been left with a depleted feeling, as if the writer was talking above me, to a more enlightened, more illuminated crowd. What an awful feeling, for a wine writer to make a wine lover feel bad about wine. But it is happening more and more on a regular basis. That is, if one continues to read those writers. It?s a bit like being in a traffic jam on a highway and creeping along slowly, only to find a wrecked car on the side of the road. Looking closer, as most of us do, thanking our lucky stars that we weren?t the unfortunate ones in the car. But with a closer look you see that indeed, you are the one slumped over in the driver?s seat, airbags deployed, with a bloody head and a set of crushed ribs. Yes, that?s the feeling 95% of wine writing, lately, conveys to me.

Of course, one can choose to not read wine writing anymore. Wine blogs are not le dernier mot they once were thought to be. My fellow wine writer friend says sticky eyes have turned to aggregator websites.

With shortened attention spans, too much information, not enough time and other subjects vying for attention in our screenshot world, from where, and from whom, does one draw their influence?

As already mentioned, influence can be both positive and negative. I?m forgoing the negative ones, although they can inspire one to often go in the opposite direction. I think that has been part of the problem with natural wine writing. Growing up in Southern California, I witnessed (and experienced) the harmful effects of those who were the ?in crowd.? If you weren?t just like them, they?d torch you, emotionally, day after day. And with natural wine, like wine in general, there are good and not-so-good examples. Honest and reliable natural wine journalists will be up-front with you. Ones in it to be part of the ?cool kid?s club,? drink the Kool-Aid, will serve it up to you, and expect you to go along. When it comes to something you don?t know much about but want to know more, and to learn from an expert, find someone who has a wide range of experience in wine, so they can give you a context.

One wine writer who I look to for direction regarding natural wine is Eric Asimov. I don?t consider him a natural wine apostle, but one of many in the wine world who enjoy beverages (and life in general) with a little less intervention. In other words, he has gained my trust when it comes to wine, period.

Eric loves wine. And when he writes, it feels like a conversation. I know what he likes, and some of what he doesn?t like. And often enough, our tastes line up. So, if he touts a particular wine that?s not necessarily in my wheelhouse, I pay attention. Whether it is sherry or xinomavro, I learn something. I?m influenced. And even though Eric isn?t a designated natural wine writer, he understands the category well enough and can provide a frame of reference within the greater world of wine.

Ian D?Agata has had as big of an influence on my Italian wine life as, say, Burton Anderson did to me, un cera volta. Burton lit the match. Ian keeps throwing logs on the fire. And Italian wine is a very large (and unruly) bonfire. His information is encyclopedic, he has one of those minds that just knows a lot of things. And he?s opened me up to a more diverse gathering of Italian wines made from grapes we never talked about 30 years ago. But they were there, just waiting for someone to love. And someone to tell us about them. Yeah, Ian, he?s the one. The Italian grapes "love cat."

Antonio Galloni understands wine in such a way that I get wobbly-kneed when I read his stuff. I?m not discouraged by what he writes, even though I have to constantly stretch and reach up. But he does not condescend, which I find all too much in English language wine writing. Antonio is a great teacher, a leader, and definitely a major influencer for me.

Neal Martin - Wow, I just love what he writes about. And here?s the deal. When he writes about wines that I will never, ever taste again, in this life on earth, he doesn?t make me feel bad about it. Because he tells a story, and tells the history and weaves a normal guy (like himself) into the story, so that we can almost be there. But even if we aren?t (or will never be) it?s still a great story. And if by chance one day we get to taste the wines that Neal does, I?ll be more prepared because of his writing about them.

Now, that said, I?m perfectly happy to drink Vino Nobile or Langhe Nebbiolo, Verdicchio or Greco di Tufo, for the rest of my life and never, ever, sip another sip of Sassicaia, Biondi-Santi, Leroy or Domaine d?Auvenay. But I won?t turn them down (I didn?t when they were offered to me).

Michael Broadbent ? I wore out two copies of ?The New Great Vintage Wine Book,? when I was working with wines from that milieu in my daily work. And when I was lucky enough to taste with him (once) it was a master class. Not those master classes touted in trade tastings and large group wine trade gatherings. A mano-a-mano master class. And one which I never forgot. It was so seamless, so humble, almost apologetic. And it stuck.

A professor in university class once advised me to seek out eminent people in my field. ?If they are truly great people, they will make time for you. And if they aren?t, you don?t need them. They?re phonies.? I took his advice and he was spot-on. Michael Broadbent has been one of those great influences, for which I?m indebted.

Walter Speller ? Reading his writing is like looking at a very calm sea after a huge storm. You know there is a lot going on there, for when the storm was raging, our boat almost sank and we were almost lost at sea. But who would know it now?

Walter is a deep current. He has learned to convey peace and calmness, but he knows things. Life isn?t neat. And his writing ferries one across depths. When I read about a wine that I think I know very well, when Walter writes about it, it?s like I?d never tasted the wine before. And he makes me want to open a bottle right away, to see what he sees, feel what he feels. He?s a fabulous influence on me in my wine life.

Darrell Corti ? I cannot really say much about Darrell that hasn?t already been said by people greater and wiser than me. His life, thankfully, has been celebrated by many in the wine trade. He has brought a lot of joy to people in this world. He is an extremely complicated and intelligent man. I?m a zygote next to his towering being and accomplishments. But I have never been made to feel less of a person in his presence. He is the teacher and I am the student. I only wish I had more time, more open synapses and well, more time. Darrell?s Xanadu was built for the ages. It is the stuff of greatness. I?m so grateful to have lived in the same period as him and been exposed to his intelligence and, more so, his humanity.

Gerald Asher ? For years, whenever I read a column in Gourmet, it was as if I was reading about life on another planet. I was the alien, I was the stranger in a strange land, and Gerald was telling me about wine on earth, here and now. History, romance, emotion! Strong, visceral writing that rejuvenates my interest and love for wine and the culture which surrounds it. For as long as I could remember, I imagined Gerald Asher as having the best wine in the wine business. I still believe that. He is a great influence on me, not for any particular wine but for stirring up my emotions, and to be open to love the wine sitting right there in front of me.

Pick your influencers with care. Make them count. Forget about how many ?followers? or ?likes? they have. Use your power of discernment, for those whom you follow will lead, for better or worse. You decide, not Instagram or Twitter. Not the influencer. It?s up to you.And up is where we want to be.


wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W

Much thanks to Terroirist, Wine Industry Insight and Wine Business.com for recommending this article to their readers.
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[08/25/2019, 22:09] Hotel Le Massif con Ristorante Ch?tif e Steakhouse Cervo Rosso ? Courmayeaur (AO) ? Executive Chef Nicola Ricciardi

Le Massif non ? solo un hotel di charme e design?con una vista privilegiata sulla Val d’Aosta, ? anche un luogo dove si celebra il gusto e si cede alla golosit?. Lo chef Nicola Ricciardi ? un executive veterano dell’alta cucina di montagna, e qui nel cuore di Courmayeur si occupa di entrambi i ristoranti della struttura: la Steakhouse Cervo Rosso, un tempio per carnivori impenitenti, regno della griglia, con una selezione di variet? di tagli curatissima e approfondita, e la tavola gourmet dello Ch?tif in cui i grandi prodotti del territorio si concedono garbate contaminazioni mediterranee. Ecco la nostra esperienza, in cui portiamo come sempre alla scoperta di tutta l’offerta gastronomica.

Il borsino delle guide cartacee 2019
Michelin non segnala il ristorante
Espresso non segnala il ristorante
Gambero Rosso non segnala il ristorante

La squadra

Lo staff dell’hotel

General Manager: Gianluca Ivaldi
F&B Manager: Luca Pupolin
Bar Manager: Bernardo Ferro
Capo Ricevimento: Sabrina Paba
SPA Manager: Silvia Di Notte
Property S&M Manager: Betty Farigu

Lo staff di cucina

Executive Chef del Ristorante Ch?tif: Nicola Ricciardi
Sous chef:?Adriano Liguori
Chef saucier: Alessandro Iorio
Chef entremetier: Andrea Piras
Chef hors d?oeuvre: Gabriele Gaias
Chef alla Steakhouse: Vittorio Albano
Pastry chef: Abid Miri
Commis di cucina: Mario Carrillo

Lo staff di sala

Restaurant Manager: Luca Pupolin
Sommelier: Rossano Montalbano
Chef de rang: Marco Satta, Maurizio Cannat?
Commis: Carolina Machado, Chiara Piras

Giunti a destinazione

L’hotel fa parte dell’Italian Hospitality Collection

Italian Hospitality Collection riunisce hotel, resort e spa di eccellenza: unici, scelti per la loro bellezza, la loro storia e l?incanto del loro territorio. In Toscana i tre resort della collezione ? Fonteverde, Bagni di Pisa, Grotta Giusti ? sono nati come residenze termali nobiliari. Sono gioielli di storia e architettura sorti su sorgenti naturali, in alcune delle zone pi? incantevoli della regione come la Val d?Orcia, le colline che abbracciano Pisa e la Valdinievole. In Sardegna, il Chia Laguna ? immerso nello splendore di uno dei tratti pi? spettacolari della costa, davanti a spiagge, promontori, lagune costiere e dune che si affacciano sul mare color turchese. In Val d?Aosta Le Massif ? un?esperienza di ospitalit? unica in montagna che si esprime in due location d?eccezione: l?hotel cinque stelle Le Massif nel cuore di Courmayeur e lo chalet La Loge du Massif nello scenario di Plan Checrouit, direttamente sulle piste da sci.

Le Massif dispone dei seguenti servizi: noleggio e trasporto di attrezzature da sci; Ski Concierge; soluzioni kids aII inclusive 3-12 anni; Servizio Babysitting; Kids Club da 3 a 12 anni; Ski Pass; scuola di sci, snowboard, sci di fondo, telemark, free ride; escursioni; freeride; heliski; parapendio; trekking; mountain bike; orienteering; tour alla scoperta della natura selvaggia; voli in mongolfiera e in elicottero sulle Alpi e sui ghiacciai; Skyway; pesca con la mosca; visita ai vigneti e degustazione; pic-nic nella natura; visite ad Aosta romana con una guida privata; percorso golf.

Il Concierge

La suite di VG

Il salottino

Il benvenuto dell’hotel

La vista mozzafiato dal balcone?

La sala da bagno

La vasca da bagno

Amenities

Mini bar

Camere

L’Hotel Le Massif dispone di 80 camere, suite e junior suite

Tariffe delle camere: Suite da ? 450 a 900; Junior Suite da ? 350 a 600; Deluxe da ? 225 a 450; Superior da ? 175 a 375.

SPA

Le energie della montagna e le sue essenze danno vita a raffinati rituali, trattamenti e percorsi unici per entrare in un’altra dimensione avvolti dagli? aromi? e? dai profumi della natura. “I segreti del bosco” ? la speciale linea di trattamenti della spa, programmi che uniscono la sapienza millenaria della cultura alpestre alle propriet? terapeutiche dei preziosi frutti dei boschi dai quali proviene l’energia curativa.

Su consultazione: tariffe dei trattamenti

Decidiamo di andare a fare aperitivo

Il Bar del Gigante

La preparazione dei nostri drink

Tipologia dei cocktail: Gin Fizz (Vergin Gin Alpino Vertosan, succo di limone, sciroppo di zucchero, Soda water); Batida al frutto della passione rivisitata (Cacha?a, sciroppo home made di frutto della passione, succo di lime); Negroni (gin, vermouth rosso, bitter).

Tipologia degli stuzzichini: carne messata con mela caramellata e maionese, chips di pane nero con fichi e noci; bign? con fonduta di fontina Dop e frutti rossi e chips di tapioca; carpaccio di trota salmonata agli agrumi.

Sala e mise en place della Steakhouse Cervo Rosso

Men?

Riportiamo, come sempre, il men? alla carta.

La carta

Antipasti

Assortimento delle eccellenze valdostane ? 19
Controfiletto di razza piemontese scottato alle erbe di montagna con cipolla rossa di Tropea al sale integrale, crescione e salsa alla senape di Digione ? 22
Jambon de Bosses e fichi ? 20

Insalate

Alpin salad ? 16
Chicken salad ? 18

Carne

Tomahawk Scottona Italia (per 2 persone) ? 10 all?etto
Picanha dall?Argentina ? 20 all?etto
Filetto di Fassone Piemontese ? 28
T-Bone Angus USA (per 2 persone) ? 10 all?etto
T-Bone Scottona primitiva Veneto (per 2 persone) ? 7 all?etto
Chianina (per 2 persone) ? 8 all?etto
Fassone ? 32
Scottadito ? 28
Pluma ? 20 all?etto
Secreto ? 17 all?etto
Grigliata Le Massif (per 2 persone) ? 120

Contorni

Insalata mista ? 8
Patate fritte ? 8
Verdure al vapore ? 8
Caponata di verdure ? 8
Patata al cartoccio ? 8

Dolci

Sfera di cioccolato fondente al tiramis? ? 12
Cheescake allo yogurt Panizzi con biscotto alla frutta secca e frutti di bosco ? 12
Tortino con crema all’amarena e salsa vaniglia Bourbon ? 12
Delizia al limone ? 12
Frittelle alla cannella, crema allo zabaione e fragole ? 12
Crema catalana liquirizia, biscotto al cioccolato e nuvola di zucchero filato ? 12
Gelato ? 7
Tagliata di frutta ? 15
La nostra selezione di formaggi con salse e mostarde (a porzione) ? 15

Abbinamento Vini
Optiamo, come di consueto, per il servizio al calice.

Pane

Tipologia di pane: alla farina di segale con semi; grissini al burro; cialde di polenta. In accompagnamento, burro di montagna.

Perl? Bianco Trento Doc 2009 – Ferrari

Piattooo!

La vera tartare 150 gr

Servita con senape Edmond Fallot, cipolla di Tropea, capperi di Pantelleria, olive taggiasche, tuorlo d’uovo, prezzemolo.

L?insalata mista con verdure dell?orto

La prossima portata ? cucinata in sala

Degustazione di fiorentina di pura razza Chianina

Ci spostiamo al Ristorante Ch?tif per continuare la nostra degustazione

Men?

Riportiamo, come sempre, il men? alla carta.

La carta

Antipasti

Fiori di zucca con mozzarella e acciughe, con crudaiola di pomodori alle olive taggiasche, zucchina ripiena al tomino fresco della Valle d’Aosta con piccole verdure, salsa al basilico e pomodoro ? 22
Bavarese alla borragine con i suoi fiori, sponge al cerfoglio, trota salmonata, gel? ai lamponi e salsa allo yogurt Panizzi ? 18
Girello di vitello alla mediterranea con melanzane, terra di olive taggiasche, pomodori confit e fonduta di pecorino romano ? 20
Uovo 62? alla carbonara ? 18

Primi

Tagliatelle al nero di seppia, frutti di mare, zucchine in fiore e salsa bisque profumata agli agrumi e crema di piselli ? 20
Trofie con salsa al pesto di basilico, burrata e noci tostate ? 16
Lasagna con salsiccia nostrana, funghi cardoncelli e spinacine novelle ? 18
Zuppa di verdure gratinata alla ?Courmaierentze” ? 16

Secondi

Maialino arrostito al rosmarino con maionese di mele e senape ? 22
Bocconcini di manzo, erbette spontanee scottate, sponge ai porcini secchi, cubi di patate sabbiose e terra di olive taggiasche ? 24
Triglia croccante, coulis di pomodorini pendolo, mozzarella di bufala ripiena con cozze e chips di verdure ? 21

Specialit? con supplemento

Fiorentina di Chianina (per 2 persone) ? 8 all?etto
Tomahawk di manzo Scottona primitiva (per 2 persone) ? 10 all?etto
Filetto di Fassona piemontese in salsa Carbonade con soffice di polenta macinata a pietra ? 35

Dolci

Sfera di cioccolato fondente al tiramis? ? 12
Cheescake allo yogurt Panizzi con biscotto alla frutta secca e frutti di bosco ? 12
Tortino con crema all’amarena e salsa vaniglia Bourbon ? 12
Delizia al limone ? 12
Frittelle alla cannella, crema allo zabaione e fragole ? 12
Crema catalana liquirizia, biscotto al cioccolato e nuvola di zucchero filato ? 12
Gelato ? 7
Tagliata di frutta ? 15
La nostra selezione di formaggi con salse e mostarde (a porzione) ? 15

Cialda di riso soffiato con tartare di manzo, terra di olive nere, cappero disidratato

Cervaro della Sala 2016 Umbria Igt – Antinori

In arrivo le prossime portate

Fiori di zucca con mozzarella e acciughe, con crudaiola di pomodori alle olive taggiasche, zucchina ripiena al tomino fresco della Valle d’Aosta con piccole verdure, salsa al basilico e pomodoro?

Bavarese alla borragine con i suoi fiori, sponge al cerfoglio, gel?e ai lamponi e salsa allo yogurt Panizzi

Tagliatelle al nero di seppia, carpaccio di baccal?, zucchine in fiore e salsa bisque profumata agli agrumi

Ziggurat Montefalco Rosso Doc – Tenute Lunelli

Il taglio di carne che andremo a degustare

Tagliata di manzo, scalogno glassato, crema di carote affumicate e terra di pane alle erbette di montagna

Semifreddo di yogurt al latte valdostano con frutti di bosco e nuvola di zucchero filato

Fragole per chiudere in bellezza

Al risveglio, colazione in camera!

La sala delle colazioni

Il buffet dolce…

… e salato

La scelta di VG

VG insieme allo staff

Cucina

Quella di Nicola Ricciardi ? una cucina dalla golosit? smaccata e dall’approccio trasversale, che unisce la concretezza a leggerezza e pulizia, con mano precisa anche nelle composizioni di ispirazione pi? mediterranea.

Servizio e accoglienza

Elegante e classico nell’approccio, impeccabile nella tecnica e nelle finiture al tavolo: un servizio di grande classe e e mestiere.

Conclusioni

Che ci si accomodi alla Steakhouse o al ristorante gourmet, l’offerta gastronomica del Le Massif si dimostra sempre centrata e coerente, supportata com’? da grandi professionalit?.

Viaggiatore Gourmet

Hotel Le Massif
11013 Courmayeur (AO)

Strada Regionale, 38
Tel. (+39) 02 8434 5670
Sito internet: www.lemassifcourmayeur.com

 

L'articolo Hotel Le Massif con Ristorante Ch?tif e Steakhouse Cervo Rosso – Courmayeaur (AO) – Executive Chef Nicola Ricciardi proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/22/2019, 22:31] Casa Fantini Lake Time ? Pella (NO) ? Chef Paolo Bullone

“Lake Time”, il tempo del lago. Scorre lento e rarefatto, e l’obiettivo di Casa Fantini ? proprio quello di offrire ai suoi ospiti il lusso del riprendersi il proprio tempo, da vivere secondo i ritmi della natura, vera ispiratrice di tutto il progetto. ? qui che ritroviamo Paolo Bullone, chef gi? in forza all’Agrodolce di Imperia: la sua cucina, leggerissima, vivace e attenta alla parte vegetale trova in questa struttura una collocazione ideale, condividendone la sinergia col tempo e le stagioni.

Il borsino delle guide cartacee 2019

Michelin non segnala il ristorante
Espresso non segnala il ristorante
Gambero Rosso non segnala il ristorante

La squadra

Lo staff dell’hotel

General Manager: Andrea Pavesio
F&B: Vittorio Brizio
Capo Ricevimento: Simona Cattel
Sales & Marketing Manager: Giulia Paciotti

Lo staff di cucina

Chef: Paolo Bullone

L’ingresso e l’insegna dell’hotel

A Pella, sul Lago D’Orta, il pi? romantico dei laghi italiani, sorge Casa Fantini Lake Time: un luogo intimo di armonia in cui il paesaggio, l’architettura e la luce si mescolano in un perfetto equilibrio e il tempo sembra fermarsi come per magia.
Il resort ospita 5 camere Superior, 4 camere Prestige e 2 Suites, tutte con vista sul Lago d’Orta.
Il piccolo porto di Pella ? situato a pochissimi passi da Casa Fantini. Da qui gli ospiti possono intraprendere tour in barca e scoprire gli angoli pi? nascosti e segreti del Lago d’Orta. Guidati da una guida esperta di storia dell’arte, si possono scoprire i preziosi tesori artistici e storici del Lago d’Orta, come il Santuario di Madonna del Sasso o l’Isola di Orta San Giulio.

Il giardino che si affaccia sul Lago d’Orta

La piscina

La Lounge?

Dettagli

La Superior Room Terrace di VG?

La vista incantevole dal balcone

Il benvenuto dell’hotel

La sala da bagno

Amenities

La macchinetta del caff?

Mini bar

Tariffe delle camere

Camera Superior: a partire da ? 360
Camera Prestige: a partire da ? 515
Suite: a partire da ? 795

Suite

Doccia hammam

Vasca

Personal SPA

A Casa Fantini Lake time gli ospiti possono usufruire del servizio di Personal SPA. Ogni camera ? infatti dotata di una cabina con doccia, bagno turco e cromoterapia. Per le stanze ? stata selezionata la linea Tranquillity di Comfort Zone in grado di ridurre lo stress e favorire il rilassamento.
A questo si aggiunge uno SPA Men?, composto da Rituali Comfort Zone che possono essere effettuati su richiesta all?interno della propria stanza (per le camera Prestige e Suite) o in alternativa sulla terrazza con vista lago. I rituali possono essere svolti solo da professionisti certificati Comfort Zone.

Su consultazione:?tariffe dei trattamenti

Aperitivo

Negroni e Verde Balocchi

Sala e mise en place del ristorante

Men?

Riportiamo, come sempre, il men? degustazione e quello alla carta.

Men? Degustazione ? 70

La carta

Antipasti

Carciofo, Parmigiano e uova ? 20
Vellutata di piselli, triglia rossa e yogurt ?23
Faraona, ciliegie e tartufo estivo ? 25

Primi

Mezzelune di ficu, aglio di Caraglio e mirtilli ? 25
Orecchiette leggermente piccanti, colatura di alici, pistacchi e bufala ? 22
Riso in fiore, pomodoro verde, limone e carpaccio di gambero rosso ? 28

Secondi

Pollo ficatum arrosto, erbe selvatiche e purea di patate e mais ? 25
Pescato del giorno con verdure ? 30
Scaramella di Vicciola e asparagi ? 28

Dolci

Cioccolato, frutto della passione e nocciola ? 10
Panna cotta ? 10

Abbinamento Vini
Optiamo, come di consueto, per il servizio al calice.

Proseguiamo la nostra degustazione al tavolo

Initial Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne Brut – Jacques Selosse

Foglia d?ostrica, crema al Parmigiano e lime e aceto bianco

Cannolo di carota, burrata e fiori di salvia

Asparago, tuorlo e bottarga

Pane

Tipologia di pane: integrale; bianco; focaccia; lievito madre all?origano. In accompagnamento, burro salato Echir?.

Piattooo!

Minestrone di frutta e verdura

Astice alla Catalana

Carciofo, Parmigiano e uova

Faraona, ciliegie e tartufo estivo

Risotto Risoinfiore con pomodoro verde, limone e carpaccio di gambero rosso

Risotto Risoinfiore con plancton, mosciolo di Portonovo e yuzu

Mezzelune di ficu, aglio di Caraglio e mirtilli

Orecchiette leggermente piccanti, colatura di alici, pistacchi e bufala

Comte Lafond Sancerre Asc – Baron de Ladoucette

Bouillabaisse in crosta

Tagliatelle di calamaro, il suo nero e purea di carote

Scaramella di Vicciola e asparagi

Bab?, mirtilli e panna al cardamomo

Cioccolato, frutto della passione e nocciola

Colazione in terrazzino privato

Ci spostiamo nella sala delle colazioni

VG insieme allo chef Paolo Bullone e allo staff del ristorante

Cucina

Un rapporto privilegiato con le verdure tutto ligure e concreta golosit? mediterranea: sono queste le firme di Paolo Bullone, declinate con tecnica puntuale e vivacit? aromatica.

Servizio e accoglienza

Non ingessato, l’attenzione all’ospite ? quella della grande hotellerie, dal bar al ristorante gourmet.

Conclusioni

Casa Fantini ? una vera scoperta, un luogo da cui non si vorrebbe mai andare via: pace, armonia con la natura, design e offerta gastronomica, tutto ? al servizio del benessere del cliente.

Viaggiatore Gourmet

Casa Fantini Lake Time
28010?Pella (NO)
Piazza Motta angolo Via Roma 2
Tel. (+39) 0322 969893
E-mail: info@casafantinilaketime.com
Sito internet: www.casafantinilaketime.com

 

L'articolo Casa Fantini Lake Time – Pella (NO) – Chef Paolo Bullone proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/21/2019, 22:14] Cartoline dal 907mo Meeting VG @ Casual Ristorante in Citt? Alta ? Bergamo ? Patron Enrico Bartolini e Marco Locatelli, Chef Alex Manzoni

Vi abbiamo da poco raccontato la nostra esperienza al Casual Ristorante in Citt? Alta, uno dei locali che hanno permesso a Enrico Bartolini di diventare lo chef con pi? stelle Michelin in Italia. Vista la piacevolissima degustazione che avevamo fatto, abbiamo pensato di tornare immediatamente per uno dei nostri pranzi esclusivi in compagnia dei nostri associati. Cos? gli Amici Gourmet hanno avuto modo di apprezzare anche loro la cucina moderna e di grande impatto proposta dallo Alex Manzoni e farsi coccolare da Marco Locatelli e dal suo staff. A seguire il racconto del nostro evento…

Archivio storico reportage:

->?Reportage del 7 Dicembre 2016 (l’articolo si riferisce allo chef precedente)
->?Meeting del 18 Gennaio 2017 (l’articolo si riferisce allo chef precedente)
->?Reportage del 8 Agosto 2019

La squadra

Patron:?Enrico Bartolini?e?Marco Locatelli

Lo staff di cucina

Chef:?Alex Manzoni
Sous chef:?Vania Viapiana
Pastry chef:?Alex Manzoni
Chef de partie ai primi:?Niccol? Pavoni
Chef de partie agli antipasti:?Davide Sala

Lo staff di sala

Ma?tre/sommelier:?Marco Locatelli
Chef de rang:?Sara Carrara?e?Erik Tisi

L’ingresso del ristorante

Sala e mise en place

Il tavolo Amici Gourmet

Il nostro men? personalizzato

Abbinamento Vini
Nei meeting utilizziamo i vini messi a disposizione dai nostri Partner.

Aperitivo nel dehors

Lo chef Alex Manzoni ci d? il suo benvenuto

Vintage Collection 2014 Franciacorta Sat?n – Ca’ Del Bosco

Cin-cin!

Piramide di grano arso, scarola dei Colli di Bergamo e uva fragola

Carotine fresche con maionese al curry

Tartelletta di vongole e zucchine

In arrivo altri stuzzichini

Cannolo di gamberi rossi ed estratto di pomodorini arrostiti

Mini sandwich con prosciutto crudo Al Berlinghetto

Selezione di salumi e affettati Al Berlinghetto

In abbinamento, focaccia all’olio extra vergine d’oliva e grissini

Pane

Tipologia di pane: pagnotta fatta in casa di farina di grano saraceno e lievito madre; focaccia all?olio extra vergine d’oliva; grissini al finocchietto. ?In accompagnamento, burro salato d?Isigny con polvere di fiori di ibisco.

Perl? Nero Trento Doc 2008 – Ferrari

Piattooo!

Cavolfiore, nocciola e acciuga?

Ad?nzia 2016 Sicilia Bianco Doc – Baglio del Cristo di Campobello

Lo chef ci descrive la prossima portata che andremo a degustare

Crudo di capesante, calamansi e insalatina di piselli

Il tocco finale

Ventresca di tonno rosso, ciliegie e pepe

Il patron Marco Locatelli avvina la prossima etichetta

Campania Bianco Igt Dall’Isola – Joaquin

Anguilla arrostita, cipolle e aneto

Tortelli al limone, mandorle e bottarga greca

Il piatto successivo ? completato in sala

VG insieme a Alex Manzoni e Marco Locatelli presentano il piatto

Risotto Carnaroli Riserva San Massimo all?anice, ostrica e uova d?aringa affumicate

Sogliola scottata, bagna c?uda e carciofi grigliati

Lanfora Grignolino D’Asti Doc – Montalbera

Animelle di vitello, estratto di foglie di fico e ribes

Originaldo Pinot Nero – Fausto Andi

Triglia di scoglio, gamberi e melanzana perlina

Sella d’agnello, terrina di porri e camomilla

Piccione, verza al cartoccio, olive e nocciola

Il carrello dei formaggi

In accompagnamento ai formaggi, pan brioches al lievito madre ripieno di noci e miele e composte

Vino filtrato dolce – Vini Passiti Bragagnolo

Bergamotto, liquirizia e pepe

Un dessert golosissimo!

Arancia, pistacchio e zenzero

Caff? e coccole finali

Tipologia caff?:?Chickmagalur Karnataka, 100% Arabica dall?India, raccolto a mano sull?altipiano di Chickmagalur nel Karnataka a 1100 mt di altezza. Torrefazione?Giamaica?di Gianni Frasi (Verona).

Tipologia piccola pasticceria: illusione di litchi (esternamente cioccolato, all?interno purea di litchi e rabarbaro); mignon di tarte au citron; macaron al frutto della passione.

Ciliegie!

? ora della merenda!

Lo? chef presenta il piatto in pentola d’oro Agnelli

Spaghettoro Verrigni all?estratto di pomodoro, foglie di capperi, salvia e pinoli

Un grande GRAZIE a tutti!

Per la prossima tappa aspettiamo anche te!

Consulta il calendario eventi qui e iscriviti!

Viaggiatore Gourmet – Viaggiare, conoscere, esserci!

Partner della 907esima edizione Meeting di Altissimo Ceto

Casual Ristorante in Citt? Alta
24129 Bergamo
Via San Viglio, 1
Tel. (+39) 0352 60944
Chiuso il marted?
E-mail:?info@casualristorante.it
Sito internet:?www.enricobartolini.net

I prossimi meeting di Altissimo Ceto:

www.altissimoceto.it/meeting-eventi/

Essere un nostro associato significa ricevere inviti personali per oltre 100 eventi (annuali) imperdibili che organizziamo per i nostri soci, un ricco calendario di eventi settimanali (aperitivi, pranzi, cene, serate mixology, degustazioni di grandi vini e di cibi rari e preziosi) privati ed esclusivi (Roadshow of Excellence Tour), tappe ufficiali che in Italia ogni anno vengono ospitate dalla migliore selezione di tutti i 10?tre stelle, dei 39?due stelle e da una buona parte dei 318 ristoranti stellati Michelin, oltre che da una attenta selezione di Hotel 5 ***** stelle, SPA resort e relais selezionati tra i pi? prestigiosi e rappresentativi.

Breaking News – Eventi Enogastronomici esclusivi. (Media Partner) Sponsored By Amici Gourmet Network esclusivo di appassionati Gourmet.

L'articolo Cartoline dal 907mo Meeting VG @ Casual Ristorante in Citt? Alta ? Bergamo ? Patron Enrico Bartolini e Marco Locatelli, Chef Alex Manzoni proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/18/2019, 22:34] Cartoline dal 908mo Meeting VG @ Ristorante La Madernassa ? Castelrotto (CN) ? Chef Michelangelo Mammoliti

A tre anni di distanza dalla nostra prima visita possiamo affermare serenamente che Michelangelo Mammoliti, lo chef del Ristorante La Madernassa di Guarene (CN), ? passato dallo status di giovane emergente di buone speranze a solida realt? in costante ascesa, diventando meta degli appassionati in cerca di una cucina moderna in un territorio in cui la tradizione regna. Il merito di questa cavalcata inarrestabile ? solo suo e di chi gli permette di sprigionare liberamente la sua creativit?, ovvero Fabrizio Ventura, il patron del locale. In un’epoca in cui la comunicazione pone sotto i riflettori tanti ragazzi, che nella maggior parte dei casi poi non mantengono le aspettative, siamo contenti che Michelangelo abbia deciso di concentrarsi esclusivamente sulla sua cucina, senza lasciarsi trascinare o distrarre dal circo mediatico che oggi circonda il mondo dell’alta ristorazione. I risultati si possono apprezzare sedendosi alla sua tavola e degustando i suoi piatti, come abbiamo fatto noi in occasione della nostra tappa annuale del Roadshow of Excellence in compagnia degli Amici Gourmet. Una degustazione incredibile in cui sono emersi tutti gli aspetti che lo contraddistinguono: tecnica ineccepibile, abbinamenti perfettamente equilibrati, contaminazioni dal mondo, concetti e una grande conoscenza di ci? che ? oggi la cucina e cosa sar? nei prossimi anni. Ecco a voi il racconto della nostra esperienza.

Archivio storico reportage:

->?Reportage del 12 Aprile 2016
->?Meeting del 4 Giugno 2016
->?Meeting del 10 Giugno 2017
->?Meeting del 11 Agosto 2018

La squadra

Patron: Ventura Fabrizio e Adriano Luciana

Lo staff di cucina

Executive chef: Michelangelo Mammoliti
Sous chef: Andrea Pasca, Mirko Grimaldi
Pastry chef: Giulia Zappa

Lo staff di sala

Ma?tre: Daniele Genovese
Sommelier: Alessandro Tupputi
Chef de rang: Alessandro Marcialis, Gabriele Conoscenti, Giuseppe Summo

Sala?

Il tavolo Amici Gourmet

Il nostro men? personalizzato

Abbinamento Vini
Nei meeting utilizziamo i vini messi a disposizione dai nostri Partner.

Aperitivo

Milano-Torino

Acqua Filette, Premium Water Partner del nostro?Roadshow

Acqua?Filette Naturalmente Naturale

Foglia di castagno cacio e pepe

In arrivo gli stuzzichini

Carota con anchoiade e furikake

Patata al nero con crema di olive in salamoia

Kings gap di alga kombu con riso e sgombro affumicato

Tuile al nero di seppia con mousse di tonno

Pomodorini dell?orto

Takoyaki vegetale con crema di pistacchio

Bacio di dama al pomodoro – Tubo croccante con besciamella al guanciale

Tartelletta di duxelles di champignon

Perl? Trento Doc 2013 – Ferrari

Pane

Tipologia di pane: panino con grano saraceno.

Danish bread ai 5 cereali?

Focaccina con olive taggiasche

Carta musica profumata al cappero

Il tutto ? accompagnato da burro di montagna mantecato allo sciroppo d?acero e sale marino

Il tocco finale

Piattooo!

Cozze poch? con gazpacho di pomodoro e anguria

La portata ? ultimata in sala

Marmoreo

Fine velo di calamaro, condimenti som tam come una papaya salad.

Lo chef Michelangelo Moccagatta ci descrive il piatto successivo

Amande

Scampi arrostiti al miele di rododendro, cannella e crema di armelline.

Un ultimo tocco…

Violetta

Melanzana aburiyaki cotta in estrazione di semi tostati alla parmigiana.

Ad?nzia 2016 Sicilia Bianco Doc – Baglio del Cristo di Campobello

Americanino

Spaghetti cotti in un estrazione di pizza all’Americanino.

La bottiglia presentata insieme al piatto “Spiaggiato” che andremo a degustare

All’interno della bottiglia ? nascosta la spiegazione del prossimo piatto: vi ? infatti una foto di un cocco spiaggiato trovato dallo chef in una spiaggia della Thailandia in cui erano incastonati frammenti di conchiglie.

Percebes!

Spiaggiato

Riso Carnaroli Riserva San Massimo cotto nel cocco, plancton e percebes.

Paros? 2011 Franciacorta Pas Dos? Ros? – Mosnel

Et voil?!

Libert? nel fiume

Filetto di trota mi-cuit con crema di spinaci affumicati, caviale di trota, emulsione al levistico. A parte un gall? di patata con crema acidula e caviale di trota.

Pacific

Ricciola hamachi cotta in olio all?origano, emulsione al salmoriglio.

Lino

Maialino da latte marinato al miso d’orzo, condimento tsukudani all’alga kombu

Foglia di lattuga con kimchi e pancetta

Panino al vapore con maionese al sesamo e guanciale

Raviolo al miso d?orzo farcito di guanciale con zuppetta al miso d?orzo

Ros? Trento Doc – Ferrari

Essenziale per essere felici

Biscuit di cacao e fava Tonka, pralinato alle nocciole e crema di pane della tradizione.

Per-seca

Pesca nella sua essenza macerata al vino rosso, infusione alla verbena e mandorle.

Caff? e coccole finali

Gel?e di pesca e verbena

Macaron con ganache al caramello

More dell?orto

Bon?t?

Bign?

Madeleine con crema al cardamomo

Guimauve ai fiori d?arancio

Canel? al rum e Moscato

Lo chef ci raggiunge al tavolo per un saluto

Un grande GRAZIE a tutti!

Per la prossima tappa aspettiamo anche te!

Consulta il calendario eventi qui e iscriviti!

Viaggiatore Gourmet – Viaggiare, conoscere, esserci!

Partner della 908esima edizione Meeting di Altissimo Ceto

La Madernassa
12050 Guarene (CN)
Localit? Lora, 2
Tel. (+39)?0173 611716
Chiuso luned?
E-mail:?info@lamadernassa.it
Sito internet:?www.lamadernassa.it

I prossimi meeting di Altissimo Ceto:

www.altissimoceto.it/meeting-eventi/

Essere un nostro associato significa ricevere inviti personali per oltre 100 eventi (annuali) imperdibili che organizziamo per i nostri soci, un ricco calendario di eventi settimanali (aperitivi, pranzi, cene, serate mixology, degustazioni di grandi vini e di cibi rari e preziosi) privati ed esclusivi (Roadshow of Excellence Tour), tappe ufficiali che in Italia ogni anno vengono ospitate dalla migliore selezione di tutti i 10?tre stelle, dei 39?due stelle e da una buona parte dei 318 ristoranti stellati Michelin, oltre che da una attenta selezione di Hotel 5 ***** stelle, SPA resort e relais selezionati tra i pi? prestigiosi e rappresentativi.

Breaking News – Eventi Enogastronomici esclusivi. (Media Partner) Sponsored By Amici Gourmet Network esclusivo di appassionati Gourmet.

L'articolo Cartoline dal 908mo Meeting VG @ Ristorante La Madernassa ? Castelrotto (CN) ? Chef Michelangelo Mammoliti proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/18/2019, 14:19] Knowing Your Place
from the archives...The social hierarchy of vines

Among the many hundreds of Italian vines there is a pecking order. Some are more important than others. Often, the ones in power don?t shy away from letting the subjacent ones know who is on top.

In Italy, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese are the Chairman and the CEO. But not just any Nebbiolo or Sangiovese. The Nebbiolo must come from the Langhe, preferably Barolo or Barbaresco. And Sangiovese, while prolific, must be from the right neighborhood, Montalcino. Everywhere else is the other side of the tracks.

If you are Montepulciano or Nero d?Avola, what are the chances you?ll make it to the ruling class? You might have breeding and pedigree, but location is paramount. You have to come from the right place. And knowing one?s place in Italy?s viticultural society is vital to one?s status.



Let?s look at the ladder of dominance, from the perspective of a common grape, Trebbiano. Known for its ubiquity over its rarity, this grape was written off years ago for being light and thin and acidic, possessing little character. Yes, there are a few producers in Abruzzo who have been able to coerce nobility out of their plantings, like Pepe and Valentini. They?ll make it to Baron or Count, but never to King or Queen.

?It?s the way of the world,? a cellar master in Abruzzo once told me. ?You are born where you are born and you live the life you were meant to live. Kings and millionaires don?t always have the greatest life.? The cellar master was a humble man, a peasant, who rose up in his village to commandeer the cellar of a small estate. But he never forgot who was in charge of the land. ?We don?t own these vines, those belong to the wealthy land owners,? he once remarked as we were walking the vineyards. ?They are down at the beach, eating fresh seafood and playing bocce ball in their swim shorts. They take long naps; they put on three or four kilos in the month of August. And when they come back for harvest they are sluggish from their leisure. Just like their crus, the important wines we make for them in their small French barrels.? It took me years to understand what he was driving at. Now it is very clear.

Even if you have the blood of royalty in your grape line, like Sangiovese or Nebbiolo, this isn?t an automatic shoo in to the board of directors. That is the realm of executive platinum class, the Barolos, the Brunellos. And all the rest fall in place after, like a seating or an org-chart.

What about a wine like Vino Nobile (di Montepulciano)? Isn?t it almost as great as a Brunello? To some yes, but to those who set (the rules of) the table, they don?t get a place at it.


So even if you come to the areas regarded as the highest level of status in regards to producing wines from grapes, one still might not have access to the executive dining room. Piero Antinori said in an interview with Charlie Arturaola at Vinitaly, ?My family in the 14th century started to produce wine.? In 26 generations one can get a leg up on the latecomers, not only in their embrace of the land and the vines, but also in the upper stratum of the society. A cowherd from Ragusa has many generations of uphill struggle to arrive at a point even remotely near a family with that track record.

And so it goes with the hundreds of lesser players, from Barbera to Canaiolo, Vermentino to Grillo and Cococciola to Nero d?Avola.


My last trip to Sicily was a revelation in the class structure of grapes, wine and men. Even in the contradas around Etna there was a pecking order that I didn't know existed. A winegrower I was with, as we passed a winery would say, ?He?s from Tuscany, he?s not from here.? If a winemaker was from 90 minutes away in Central Sicily, he was also considered an ?outsider.? If the class structure has drilled down to the contrada level, one can only imagine the dramas being played out in Barolo and Montalcino.

Back in Abruzzo, with the cellar master, after we had picked and eaten some fresh figs on the property, he remarked to me, ?They think they?re going to live forever. If they own 200 hectares in Abruzzo or the top vineyard in Piedmont, they all will have the same fate as you and me. This they cannot buy their way out of.?


As he led me to a table outside, near his beloved vines, the breeze from the sea cooled as it rolled up the hill. His wife had set a table with fresh vegetables, and a bottle of fresh white, a Trebbiano from Abruzzo, was opened.

?What they have obtained in this world is great, but what they can never buy is health, humility, simplicity, happiness. Yes, their beds are softer and their pillows have more feathers in them, but that won?t assure them of restful dreams, or that they will even wake up in the morning.?

What I have learned over the years from the cellar master, my guru from Abruzzo, is to know your place, in the vineyard, at the table and in the universe.


My old pal the cellar master, he knows his place. And I will gladly sit at his table and take my place. Anytime.



written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[08/13/2019, 22:28] Cartoline dal 906mo Meeting VG @ Ristorante Acquamatta ? Semiana (PV) ? Patron Andreia Saito, Chef Alessandro Cerutti

I nostri eventi esclusivi continuano dal Ristorante Acquamatta, una delle realt? che pi? ci ha convinti tra quelle che vi abbiamo raccontato negli ultimi mesi. Eccoci di ritorno dunque a Semiana, in provincia di Pavia, con i nostri Amici Goumet per degustare le ultime creazioni dello chef Alessandro Cerutti, che ci ha proposto?un’allettante carrellata di portate, dagli appetizer ai dessert, in cui emergono chiaramente i concetti cardine della sua cucina. C’? la voglia di puntare sulla concretezza e sull’estetica, nonch? sull’immediatezza e sull’estrema golosit?. Zero fronzoli, solo il gusto al centro di ogni piatto. Il risultato ? stato davvero apprezzato dai nostri associati, per un’altra una bella giornata che vi raccontiamo come sempre con dovizia di particolari…

Archivio storico reportage:

-> Reportage del 10 Giugno 2019

La squadra

Lo staff di sala

Patron/ma?tre/sommelier:?Andreia Saito
Chef de rang: Francesca Congiu

Lo staff di cucina

Chef:?Alessandro Cerutti
Sous chef:?Fabio Torti

L’ingresso e l’insegna del ristorante

Sala?

Il tavolo Amici Gourmet

Il tavolo dei nostri partner di giornata

Il nostro men? personalizzato

Abbinamento Vini
Nei meeting utilizziamo i vini messi a disposizione dai nostri Partner.

Acqua Filette, Premium Water Partner del nostro?Roadshow

Acqua?Filette?Decisamente?Frizzante, Delicatamente Frizzante e Naturalmente Naturale

Aperitivo

Franciacorta Sat?n 2010 – Mosnel

In arrivo gli stuzzichini

Salame della duja

Bavarese di gazpacho di porri e carpaccio di fegato di vitello?

Crocchettine di rane profumate all’anice stellato?

Nachos di farina di polenta taragna con guacamole e salmone marinato al finocchietto selvatico

Baozi ripieni di verdure marinate e prosciuttino d’anatra

Cannoncino di pasta fillo ripieno d’agnello, porri e taleggio

Mini hamburger di manzo con cipolle di Breme caramellate, raspad?ra?e salsa bbq

Metodo Classico Millesimato 2008 – Beni di Batasiolo

Piattooo!

Barbabietola, spinacino, patata, caprino e carota

Piatto ispirato a un piatto dello chef Bledar Kola, assaggiato dallo chef Alessandro Cerutti nel ristorante Mullixhiu a Tirana.

Cuv?e Aurora Ros? 2015 Talento Metodo Classico Millesimato Alta Langa – Castello Banfi

Panzanella, lucioperca marinato al gin, cipolle di Breme e capperi

Pesce?spatola ripieno di pappa al pomodoro con babaganoush e misticanza

Il tocco finale

Coniglio ripieno di cardoncelli e lardo in rete di maiale con il suo fondo al caff?

Franciacorta Paros? Pas dos? ros? – Mosnel

Lo chef Alessandro Cerutti prepara il prossimo piatto in pentola d’oro Agnelli

Risotto Carnaroli Riserva San Massimo, melanzana alla scapece e anguilla caramellata

Ravioli di farina di kamut ripieni di gamberi e daikon spadellati al burro profumato al limone e salicornia

La portata successiva ? ultimata in sala

Ravioli di collo d’oca con rag? di cipolla di Breme e acqua di cipolla al timo

Trota salmonata, gel di carpione, tapioca soffiata e pak choi

Palamita scottata, salsa creola e germogli di papaveri selvatici?

Kaid 2016 Syrah Sicilia Doc – Alessandro di Camporeale

Lombatina di cavallo, salsa alla senape e germogli di senape di papavero

Vino filtrato dolce – Vini Passiti Bragagnolo

Mandorla, pesca, peperoni e offelle di Parona

Cocco, fondente, ananas, rum e menta

Caff? miscela di Arabiche Brasiliane e una piccola percentuale di una Robusta Indiana, Torrefazione Moka Sir’s

Un grande GRAZIE a tutti!

Per la prossima tappa aspettiamo anche te!

Consulta il calendario eventi qui e iscriviti!

Viaggiatore Gourmet – Viaggiare, conoscere, esserci!

Partner della 906esima edizione Meeting di Altissimo Ceto

Ristorante Acquamatta
27020 Semiana (PV)
Cascina Molino della Raina, 6
Tel. (+39) 0384 331 928

Tel. (+39) 334 732 7545
Chiuso tutto il mercoled? e marted? a cena
E-mail:?info@ristoranteacquamatta.it
Sito internet:?www.ristoranteacquamatta.it

I prossimi meeting di Altissimo Ceto:

www.altissimoceto.it/meeting-eventi/

Essere un nostro associato significa ricevere inviti personali per oltre 100 eventi (annuali) imperdibili che organizziamo per i nostri soci, un ricco calendario di eventi settimanali (aperitivi, pranzi, cene, serate mixology, degustazioni di grandi vini e di cibi rari e preziosi) privati ed esclusivi (Roadshow of Excellence Tour), tappe ufficiali che in Italia ogni anno vengono ospitate dalla migliore selezione di tutti i 10?tre stelle, dei 39?due stelle e da una buona parte dei 318 ristoranti stellati Michelin, oltre che da una attenta selezione di Hotel 5 ***** stelle, SPA resort e relais selezionati tra i pi? prestigiosi e rappresentativi.

Breaking News – Eventi Enogastronomici esclusivi. (Media Partner) Sponsored By Amici Gourmet Network esclusivo di appassionati Gourmet.

L'articolo Cartoline dal 906mo Meeting VG @ Ristorante Acquamatta ? Semiana (PV) ? Patron Andreia Saito, Chef Alessandro Cerutti proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

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[08/11/2019, 20:27] The Emotional Roller-Coaster Life of a Wine
...from the archives

I?ve been sitting in his wine closet for close to 20 years now. In the dark. Freezing. Once in a while he comes in, turns the light on and picks another one. The other, always the other. What must I do to get out of here?

I have spent the best years of my life in this small, dark room, with the others. Sometimes for weeks, he doesn?t come in; we don?t know if he has abandoned us totally. And then all of a sudden, he opens the door, turns on the light and squeezes in a few more of the others. This is sheer torment. When will I get out of here?


For a wine they say I am middle-aged. My youthful hue is gone, and I must come to grips with the fact that I?ll never be any younger. When I was younger I was so full of alcohol and hope. Now my tannins are drying out, my fruit is getting vapid and my color is dropping. Am I really better off now than I was 20 years ago? I sometimes think it would have been better to have gone out early, like so many of the ones in this room who came from California. But here I am, an Italian from a famous region, a great grape and from a wonderful home, the estate I was born on. But I wonder, when will he take me? Have I peaked? How much longer do I have to live?


When I left where I was born, when I was a mere baby, and made the trip over the water on the big ship, I came straight to this place. Within weeks, I found myself in his care. He put me on my side, kept me in the dark, did all the right things, according to the book. But all these years I have had to sit here in the dark and think about what my life is all about, sometimes I get on this emotional rollercoaster. It is then that I can feel the tannins rise and shuffle and my head feels dizzy. And then the fruit swirls around them and tries to calm them down. Then the oak influence rises up and it seems like I am in the middle of an enological cyclone, it is so confusing, and I am so far from where I was born. It causes me to have anxiety and apprehension.

Am I having an existential crisis? Why won?t he invite over some friends and open me up and get it over with? When will I be ready? When will I be released? What on earth is happening to me?



written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
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[08/04/2019, 18:56] The top 10 destinations for Italian wine exports? China isn't on the list

From the looks of young Italian wine professionals Instagram and Facebook feeds, one would think China is their top market. Add to that the obligatory posts from Kuala Lumpur, Phuket, Bangkok and Phnom Penh, one would think there?s a lot of business for Italian wine in Asia. Let?s look at the numbers.

According to Istat data, 2019 (From Italian Wine Central) of the 20 top destinations for Italian wine exports, 2018, China isn?t even in the top 10. Yes, it?s a country with good growth potential and 1.2 billion inhabitants. But is the investment in time and travel worth it?

Data from Istat - graph from Italian Wine Central

Look at the metrics: Germany, the United States and England look like firmer, if more conservative, places to keep building.

However, growing one?s Italian wine business in these countries won?t be a walk in the park.

Starting with Germany, which has been a strong market for Italy, if not without challenges in the last 20 or so years. These include the economy, which has see-sawed. The Great Crisis of 2008-2009 was a flashpoint, to be sure, along with smaller reverberations in the economy before that. But Germany has a resilience that is attractive to Italian wine producers. One is that the demand for red wine is strong, and Italy offers good value, often better than France. The other is the popularity of Italian cuisine in Germany, which provides a base (and ambassadors) for Italian wine. With all the uncertainty in global economic conditions and forecasting for the future, economies like Germany?s still beckon the Italian wine producer. Transportation is simple, Germany is relatively close, and producers can travel there easily to work the markets. The economy is one of the strongest and most robust in the global community.

The United States, as well, has been weathering the economic tsunamis of the last last 20 or so years. Look, we?re in an age of disruption, and predictions are difficult to make when the terrain in front of us, the future, is unknown. But as long as the world stays relatively peaceful and going forward, the United States (and the dollar) will continue to be an economic force. As well, there is tremendous interest in Italian wine for so many reasons. The Italian immigrants who have been coming here for the last 150 years laid down a foundation for Italian wine, with the many restaurants and general permeation into the emerging culture of America. It?s not a perfect scenario, and presently with a political struggle and the 2020 elections looming and all that implies (more disruption for sure) when one goes into the heartland of America one finds a diverse people. Not perfect, God knows, the US is experiencing more growing pains. But this is what it is, and what it has been for as long as I can remember. So, unless the North Koreans, the Iranians, the Russians, China and the United States start lobbing nukes at one another, this is the canvas we have to paint on.

England is in serious disruption mode. Or a ticking time bomb. Seeing as getting to England from Italy is still uncompicated, I?d advise to continue to work one?s relationship with the many Italian restaurants and whatever retail channels are still open to producers of quality product. It appears, to me, to be a bit unstable, in terms of growing products that originate on estates, e.g., not just commercially produced plonk. Prosecco is one instance in which the Italian wine market in the UK has been seriously undermined by the quick-profit merchants looking to make a buck on an easy sell in a category that is currently hot. But that bubble will someday burst, just as it did with Cava. I reiterate, one must keep their deep relationships steady. And hope England will someday come out of their Brexit fog.

Sidebar - Canada. Things may appear to be flat there, and the route to market is plagued by governmental hurdles. But it is a good country for wine and Italian wine at that. I?d say, if one is working in Canada and the US, to make sure to keep Canadian visits (and relationships) in the rotation, while one is going from New York to Miami to Houston to Los Angeles to San Francisco, to Portland to Seattle and Chicago. Canada may be slowing, even slumping, but the country isn?t experiencing the massive disruption that places like the US, England and China are, from a societal point of view. Sure, you talk to Canadians and they?ll tell their country is going to hell in a hand basket. But everything is relative.

The real challenge is the Untied States. And going into an election year cycle, which historically has seen slow-to-no growth because of the uncertainty of possible new leadership (which affects economic predictions, at least on the surface of things). If people are dissatisfied with current leadership (and it appears that might be the case, but in America, who really knows what the hell is going on?) then that will clamp down pocketbooks and American will just wait it out. This is a time for Italian wine producers to invest in being on the ground. Give up a vacation to Cuba or Fiji and spend a week on the beach in August, not a month. I know, habits die hard. I?ve seen Facebook and Instagram, posts of all the pretty beaches in Italy lately, I know what many of you all are really doing. Well, it?s your time and your investment and your family business. But if you asked me, I?d say, get back on the trail.

Look, the American society is in crisis as I haven?t seen in 50 years. 40,000 people die a year from gun related incidents, and more mass shootings, three in the last week! This cannot continue ad infinitum. Something has to give. And Italian wine isn?t on the top of everyone?s list. So, if you want to keep your business and grow it, get over here and into the trenches and fight for what generations before you have sacrificed to get Italian wine where it is in the world. And America is still a big deal for Italian wine. The numbers don?t lie.

Data from I numeri del vino
Which leaves me to wine categories. What?s hot. What?s not.

It looks like Pinot Grigio might be saved a little by the ros? movement. I see a lot more ramato on bottles of Pinot Grigio. That?s a short-term fix, but hey take advantage of it. But Pinot Grigio won?t be around forever.

Prosecco- This is a horse that has been almost beaten to death but is propped up with drugs to keep him in the race. And he?s running. But it?s a sad affair. One of the most beautiful places in Italy for winegrowing and it?s been a race to the bottom. I was in a store last week and Prosecco was selling for US $5.99, clearly at a loss, but the huge wine importer had to make fiscal year end numbers. That?s what Prosecco has been subverted to. If you have a small, artisanally produced Prosecco, whether it is a standard issue or a fashionable col fondo, I?d say look elsewhere. Sell it in Denmark or Japan. Bypass the US. Jeff Siegel?s ?big wine? is in control here and they aren?t giving up any territory to the small guys.

Natural wine ? We love it, we drink it, we compose sonnets to it. It still accounts for a minuscule percentage of wine sold. If that?s all you make, so be it. But there aren?t going to be any cultural shifting currents that make astronomical growth possible. That?s not even the way natural winemakers work or think. But if the trend goes ?big? you know who will take that one over? Look at the AR trend. Jeff Siegel?s ?big wine? marketers will have ?got it on lock.?

Barolo, Brunello, Super Tuscan and other 1%er premiums- I guess there?s still some room in the wine cellars of the trophy hunters. But someday these folks are going to have to drink the wine, unless they?re just keeping it like they would be keeping art or gold ingots. Relatively small production, by world standards, but part of which makes the reputation for Italian wine great and can compare to the best wines of California, even France. I just don?t see any room for anymore $100+ wines in this country, when farmers in the Midwest are declaring bankruptcy in alarming numbers, far outpacing those we experienced in the Great Crisis of 2008-2009. The wealthy 1% of the 1% can have 90% of the money in America, but they can only drink so much. This is not a good pond to dip your pole into right now. Better to drop your prices and sell some of the wine. Another harvest is looming.

Etna wines ? the darling of the somm-crowd. Well, these wines are piling up too, and Siegel?s ?big wine? is on this too. I just don?t see the trend exploding. It?s queuing up, standing in line, waiting for its turn. But not a lot of wine is burning through. Thankfully, production is small, but unlike Burgundy the status for the wines has ebbed. And retailers are telling me they?re having to discount the stuff to get it off the racks and into consumer?s hands.

So, what does that leave us with? Verdicchio? Ros? wines? Chianti? Montepulciano d?Abruzzo? Fiano? Lambrusco? There?s plenty more. The channels are crammed right now. And going into the holiday selling season, I predict lots of ?deals? are going to be struck because wine keeps getting made. Warehouses are full, retailers are full, consumers are wary, wine drinking as a cultural attachment is diminishing. People are drinking less or drinking other, for now, and the upcoming generations are economically and culturally challenged to follow in the footsteps of the generation that came before them. And they aren?t even predisposed to go in that direction on any case. So, it looks like Italian wine is in the crisis with the rest of us and will need to roll up sleeves and get into the streets and move this wine through.

The good news? America is a big market that still has growth potential, even with all the doom and gloom. But now is more of a time to have realistic expectations laced with a hearty work ethic. Forget about working on your tan ? It?s now time to build up your brand.








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[07/28/2019, 13:45] The 2nd Most Important Book About Italian Wine ? Ever
Ian D'Agata's latest book, "Italy's Native Wine Grape Terroirs"
If you are a lover of Italian wine, it is inevitable that you will become enmeshed in the arms of grape-laden vines. And it helps to have a good memory, preferably an encyclopedic one. Most of us aren?t possessed of such attributes, but thankfully there is a doctor in the house.

Ian D?Agata?s latest tome, ?Italy?s Native Wine Grape Terroirs,? serves as a worthy companion to his groundbreaking work, ?Native Wine Grapes of Italy.? Similarly named, with an additional word, terroir. Which is important to wine aficionados, as terroir is the vital link to understanding the wines from the grapes (a full explanation emanates from the book).


And so ?Italy?s Native Wine Grape Terroirs? acts as a virtual Rosetta Stone for those who are confounded by the sheer volume of grapes that pour out from the Italian peninsula, let alone the various (and seemingly) endless and often similarly named wines that can discourage the novice.

With scores of people studying and testing for the various certification programs these days, in order to earn a pin and, hopefully, a decent paying job in the wine trade, D?Agata has made understanding the Italian wine and grape universe that much easier. Not to say it is a simple task. What these two books contribute to the greater understanding in the world of Italian wine are the vinous equivalent of Hercules cleaning the Augean stables. Thankfully, D?Agata didn?t have to do the work in just a day. But he made it a heck of a lot tidier for all of us.

A jocund fellow, D?Agata maintains a whirlwind schedule, circumnavigating the globe several times a year, in service to the greater understanding of Italian wines for the hordes of devotees, who linger on his every utterance. I count myself among those throngs of acolytes, in awe of his extensive knowledge and his ability to clearly elucidate the mysteries and abstruseness of Italian grapes in wine.

D?Agata starts out with an insight into how he got hooked on Italian wine. Enjoying his first career as a doctor, which prepared him for the endless data (real and imagined) surrounding the Italian wine miasma, it was on a hill overlooking Rome where he found his thrill. Joy followed shortly afterwards, and then the scientist and academician proceeded to fall lock, stock, and barrel in love with wine. He is multi-lingual; it can be brain splitting to be (a mere mortal) in his company while he articulates, gesticulates and pivots like a whirling dervish, now in English, then in Italian, wait(!) now in French, wait, was that a German phrase he just uttered? He?s a guru, he?s running faster than anyone else in the room. And he?s burning brighter too. We are all the more fortunate that these two books are now in print, as they represent, to me, two of the greatest and most seminal (and indispensable) books one can have in their wine library. Excerpt HERE

But wait, it?s 2019, people don?t accumulate libraries anymore. Fear not, On August 2, it?s available in Kindle form. And for the Luddites, hardcover is available later in the  month, which will fit beautifully on a book shelf.

Is this a book to read, cover to cover? I once asked myself that question about another great book, ?Dionysus,? by Edward Hyams. Yes, is the answer. Read it. All of it. And then spend the rest of your life referring to the book, as it is your master class on Italy?s native wine grape terroirs.

From the University of California Press and IanDagata.com  - about the book:

"Italy?s Native Wine Grape Terroirs is the definitive reference book on the myriad crus and the grand cru wine production areas of Italy?s native wine grapes. Ian D?Agata?s approach to discussing wine, both scientific and discursive, provides an easy-to-read, enjoyable guide to Italy?s best terroirs. Descriptions are enriched with geologic data, biotype and clonal information, producer anecdotes and interviews, and facts and figures compiled over fifteen years of research devoted to wine terroirs. In-depth analysis is provided for the terroirs that produce both the well-known wines (Barolo, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino) and those not as well-known (Grignolino d?Asti, Friuli Colli Orientali Picolit, Ischia). Everyday wine lovers, beginners, and professionals alike will find this new book to be the perfect complement to D?Agata?s previous award-winning Native Wine Grapes of Italy."

(Authors note: "As the subject of Italy?s wine terroirs and its many native grapes is immense, Ian will follow up with another book on Italy?s wine terroirs in 2020, essentially a part 2 to this first opus, one that will discuss more grapes and terroirs)."

The Kindle version will be released on August 2 of 2019 (I received an advance copy from the publisher). Do yourself a huge favor, order it now ? do not wait. There are tests coming, seminars to be attending, you might even see Dr. D?Agata at one near you. The man, aside from being a genuinely wonderful person, is a font of knowledge. Tap it, uncork it, decant it and enjoy it as soon as possible. Don?t just collect it ? drink it up. There?s more where that came from (with a promised part 2 in 2020). 

Highly Recommended

And if you don?t have the 1st Most Important Book About Italian Wine ? Ever, ?Native Wine Grapes of Italy,? get it too. Now.



Much thanks to Terroirist and Wine Industry Insight for recommending this article on their sites.


written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy
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[07/24/2019, 15:01] "Leave poetry to poets? I want to know whether I'll like a wine or not"

The Incredulity of Saint Thomas by Caravaggio, c. 1602

"Wine writing is horrendous. I am a relatively young (in my mid 30s) and a neophyte to the world of enjoying wine, and the vocabulary of wine criticism is all but useless to me. Only about 5 of these terms convey anything remotely concrete about the way a wine tastes, smells and feels. The rest are hazy evocations of the emotional state of the author and so subjective that they completely fail to communicate anything. Leave poetry to poets, and write clearly and simply about wine. I want to know whether I'll like a wine or not, and the layers of abstraction and mystery pushed in guides like this make it impossible for me to know what to actually ask for and identify why I liked another bottle. I appreciate that we must rely on metaphor and simile to communicate some of the nuances of flavor and odor. However, unless it's being shot out of a spray gun into my mouth, it's hard to see how wine would feel propulsive. Wine is not a mystery, and rhapsodizing about it as a transcendental mystical experience and not a (humble, delicious) drink just leads to people like me thinking we lack the capacity to understand and enjoy it. Telling me a wine is tense, precise, energetic and alive tells me everything about you, and almost nothing about the wine" - Max ? NYC - July 15

In a recent piece in the New York Times, Eric Asimov penned, ?15 Helpful Words for Talking About Wine - Here is a practical lexicon that helps to describe the elusive characteristics of wine, without eliciting eye rolls and forehead slaps.? Inevitably, there were eye rolls, head slaps and comments. Max?s comment (above) was one of the top comments in terms of the readers choice for ?likes, recommends and replies.?

In the same comment section Nandini Sankar from Mumbai asked, ?How about an article on 15 words to use when you are asking about wine? I stumble a lot here, despite having some pretty specific likes and dislikes, and am always lost at a wine shop!?

Nandini is asking for practical advice in the form of words. Eric is offering a thought piece, as he sees it, and Max, well, Max is being Max. None of these folks are wrong. All are seeking a simple solution to understanding and, hopefully, loving wine.


I?m sure Max is earnest, as well as direct and confident (as someone ?relatively young in my mid-30?s? can be) in his opinion. There is a lot about what he says which is plain common sense.

What Nandini and, I believe also, Max are asking, are for a few practical words of advice on how to get to the point where they can enjoy the poetry. But we must give them something to sink their teeth into. First the bread, then the poetry?

When I worked the floor as a server and then a sommelier, and as well in retail shops, I would encounter people looking for a solution. There was a time limit, and there were other things more important happening. Either it was a dinner, a celebration, a date, a proposal, or a feast was going to be prepared, a holiday was coming. In other words, life events. Wine was not the centerpiece, but in the last 30 or so years of observing here in these United States, wine has moved closer to the spotlight. So, it has become more important. Nonetheless, an economy of words to describe the needed solution was one I found best suited to these occasions.

The Cardsharps by Caravaggio c.1594
Questions I?ve heard on the floor:
1) I?m having a dinner for four people tonight. We are having lasagna. What wine should I serve?

2) I need a wine tonight for friends who are coming over and we?re having light snacks.

3) I like Cabernet. Do you have Italian Cabernet?

4) I like Pinot Noir. Do you have Italian Pinot Noir?

5) I love Super Tuscans but hate Merlot. What do you have under $20?

6) (at a table in a restaurant) What wine would you recommend with what we are having? One of us is having a steak, one of us is having Fettuccine Alfredo, one is having the Dover Sole and one of us is having the Eggplant Parmigiana. What do you suggest?

7) He?s having the salmon and I?m having a chopped salad. He likes big buttery Chardonnay and I like crisp, high acid wines. What do you suggest?

8) I like dry wine, something like a Riesling. What do you suggest?

9) Do you have anything like Puligny Montrachet that doesn?t cost over $100?

10) I?m on a diet and cannot drink high calorie wine. Is there anything I can drink?


Judith Beheading Holofernes by Caravaggio c.1598?1599
Holy crap, it?s like I am dying and my life (on the floor) is flashing right before me! This is terrifying!

In reality, those who serve on the floors have to deal with this all the time. Not a lot of time. Some distraction. A made-up space, insofar as a retail shop and a restaurant is a contrived zone. We pass by here, but we do the bulk of our living elsewhere. It?s a way-station. That said, people need solutions. And fast!

First off, I attempt to put the person(s) at ease, making sure there are no wrong questions and no wrong answers, hospitalitas being the guiding principle.

Secondly, I try and find a baseline for what they routinely enjoy. There?s no ?mystery or abstraction? here, but there is a little bit of magic, in seeing a pattern and taking it out past the 2-dimensional checker board and onto the 3D chess table.

Next, I try and find a range of affordability. A good wine list or wine shop should have good (or even great) selections at all price points. Why buy crap? Find something for the young couple who can only afford $30 at the table. Or for the pensioner on a tight budget. That might not be the sweet spot for the beverage director?s profit model, but it is a gateway for folks who will get to feel more comfortable with discretionary spending on wine. And there are plenty of us out there willing to spend $60-150 on wine, especially the top cats with their expense accounts. So, have it all for all of them, all of us. Remember, hospitalitas.

Supper at Emmaus by Caravaggio c.1601
In the case of the table of four (or anything more than one), when they eat different foods it can be a challenge. At a retail shop, usually the person who has a need is making something for (more than one) that will be eaten by all of them ? all the same food. Usually. It is easier to come up with a quick solution. But the four people/four entr?es dilemma isn?t insurmountable. It?s about being creative. And also knowing those people probably are not going to put a microscope over your advice. They are there for other reasons, wine being not the most important one.

With all of these 10 questions it was fairly easy to find a creative solution with a wine or wines. The only one that gave me a moment was the last one. And then I thought, ?How about a kombucha?? Wine isn?t always the right answer ? or the only answer.

The wine trade and by extension, wine writers, are the ones bringing out the microscopes. Or these days, more likely the colonoscopes. We?re the ones going down the rabbit hole. People like Max and Nandini are asking for help, simple, clear, communication. Bread first, then the poetry.

If we are going to help shepherd the newer generations into a wine culture, we indeed need the poetry of an Eric Asimov or a Thierry Theise. They are the knife that carves the bread. And likewise, the younger generation needs to be communicated to in a way in which it will be transmitted and imparted. Trust must be earned, even if those of us who are elders know what an arduous path it was to have arrived at this point. Not everybody is there, at the mountaintop, some of them are just beginning the climb. Let?s hand them a guide-line, one which they can see and feel and handle and get a grip, for the big climb.
Madonna with the Serpent by Caravaggio c.1606



P.S. the answers to the other 9 questions, to come...

Much thanks to Terroirist and Wine Industry Insight for recommending this article on their sites.

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[07/21/2019, 16:36] "There are no interlopers in my vineyard - they all are indigenous living things"
Pt. VII

All we knew was that they were grown above in the vineyards in their native state. And they were made in a natural way. Not in the prepossessed way of the present in which every wine maker, merchant and marketer who wants to be seen as ?in? make statements with regards to their sustainability, their non-interventionism, their indigenous yeasting, their no sulfur regimen, all the trigger words to mark that one has ?arrived? in the world of real wine. None of this was stirring in these dark, cool, quiet rooms.

I arrived Monday morning and Daria met me at the door. ?Signore, Diana is still asleep. She had a rough couple of nights. Maybe a stomach flu. She?ll eventually be up. Come in and have some coffee and we will wait a few minutes.?

Diana had sidestepped a brief encounter with cancer some years ago. She was clear of it, but as it happens with things that age, something always comes up. The goal isn?t to live forever, no one can do that. It?s just to steer clear of as many infirmities as one?s constitution (and resilience) will allow. Diana was tough. But even the strong stumble. We would wait.


Darla was about 20 years younger than Diana and her parents had escaped from Romania in the 1950?s, narrowly missing a round-up in their town which would have taken them to a labor camp, where thousands perished. ?My father Luca was Roma and Yakut, whose family had been relocated after the Russian revolution from Siberia to Romania. My mother was Romanian, whose mother had been Ashkenazi. They had different national and cultural traditions from the main population, in a time when people like them were being hunted down. By a twist a fate, an Albanian orthodox priest found a way to smuggle my parents onto a ship for Italy. They landed in Brindisi, and were relocated to Calabria by Albanians who had come there hundreds of years ago. And after the war they resettled to Tuscany, where Diana?s father needed help in the vineyards. They were very lucky. I was born after the war and even though I am not Italian, my parents told me when I was young to never tell anyone about my racial identity, to just assimilate into Italian culture. They rarely spoke of the atricities they had witnessed. They just kept their heads down and worked hard, and prayed those days would never return. It has been a blessing, and I often think about where my parents and their parents came from and wonder what heritage brought me to this point. Fortunately, my father worked in the vineyards, so for now I am a child of the vine, like Diana.?

Where I came from, America, there were all kinds of people, all colors, all nationalities, although we have always struggled with race in America. In Italy, the smallest difference would be magnified. If you were from Poggibonsi and were talking to someone from Montespertoli, there was be a noticeable variation in the accents, the dialect. Everyone in Italy was proud of where they came from. And naturally they were curious as to where you were from. But if where you came from was something not to be talked about, yet, you had to be careful. You had to adapt, until (or if) the time came that being the daughter of a Romanian Jew and a Roma-Yakut wasn?t something that needed to be hidden.

Daria brought me a cup of coffee. ?What my parents taught me, when I was young were these four things: We can succeed if we can complete tasks as a group. We must work together. To do well, we cannot be stiff or unyielding, we must be able to improvise. In order to face the next day and any uncertainties that come with it, we must be able to trust one another and feel safe. Diana is up and said she would meet you in the cave.?

I had been instructed to go into the third chamber in the cave, which was large but low. Inside were all manner of bottles and sizes from the 1950?s. It looked a little like a cemetery and a nursing home combined. ?Good morning,? Diana said, showing no signs of infirmity. ?We are going to tackle this Aegean stable today.?

After a few minutes of Diana telling me where to start and how we would progress around the room, I went about my business on the side I was assigned. Diana worked the other room. Daria was straightening up and would join us in a bit.

?Diana, tell me a little bit about the wines in this room, if you will, please.? It was simple work, and one which we could have a conversation, if she chose to.

?This is a room filled with ampelographic off-shoots. There are many grapes here that have no name. Our vineyards are like a big family ? all types, coming from everywhere, some big, some tiny, some robust, some quiet. It?s a little like your American Dream, where everyone was welcomed, everyone had a sanctuary. This vineyard, though is now dream. Here, there are no interlopers in my vineyard - they all are indigenous living things.

?It was something my father and Daria?s father Luca, worked out. After the war, everything was torn up. The government was coming into the villages and trying to get them to standardize, to make their vineyards and grape selections uniform, so we as a country could present a common face to the outside world. Chianti was critical; therefore, Sangiovese was very important. But there were scores of different kinds of grapes in those days they called Sangiovese, not to mention all the other grapes with names like Granoir, Calabrese, Bastardo, colorful names, but not really telling anyone what they were, where they came from, and to what purpose they could be best utilized. We had to experiment every year, try to make the wines separately when possible, or field blend whenever nothing else could be done. I was very interested, kept a notebook, with drawing of the grapes. I wasn?t a scientist, but I love nature, and the subtle variations among the plants and the animals. Everything is connected. Thus, we didn?t throw anything away, we didn?t pull any grapevines out. This was their home, they had nowhere to go back to. So, we made it work.?

Indeed, she was sitting on an Alexandrian library of undiscovered grapes. This was a national treasure that no one had any idea what it was. It was in a time when oak and Cabernet were invading the Tuscan landscape. Her wines were terribly out of fashion. And not made in any way that the wine schools in Turin and Conegliano would ever sanction.

?Fortunately,? Diana continued, ?we were self-sustaining and didn?t need too much money. I had a few friends from school who had a restaurant here and there in Florence, and my friend with the enoteca near the Duomo was always kind and willing to help support these ventures. He saw the old traditional wines disappearing and would do what he could to support our cause in the countryside.?

?Diana, tell me a little about the different kinds of wine and how they came to be?? I wanted to know more about the long-lived whites, the seemingly immortal reds and those dessert wines, which could outlive us all.

?Really, there are only three types we make. The white wines, which vary depending on the vine, and how much we had to make. For some reason the soil here gives a strength to all the grapes which translates to long life. The old folks tell me it is the water, most of them here live to be 90 and over. Maybe it is.

?The dessert wines are always a divine accident. Some vine or vineyard gets too much sun and sugar and then we have to make Vin Santo, or something similar. These are very powerful wines with their own destiny and they decide what they will be, when they will be. They are the most dominant wines in my experience.

?The reds, even though they share a similar color, are like a table filled with siblings. They are different but similar. Some have red hair, some blond. Some are tall, some are squatty. Some are smarter than the other, some are kinder. But they all share the love of their parents, their grandparents and have a common history. They just have their own personalities. And it is not my job to make a wine with ?my? personality. It is to be watchful, patient and faithful to the individual expression of those grapes, those vines, those unique children. It makes a mess of the business of taking these wines to the marker. But Florence has many characters, who like things that run counter to the norm. I have friends, have made friends with these wines. They will not be orphans, as long as these friends work and live. And that is all I need. When I am gone, then will be the time to try and find a place for these children, and that is why we are here in this room. Hand me one of those towels, please and also another candle.?

It was cool and deathly silent in this little chamber. All the souls who helped to harvest the grapes and make the wine, some who had passed away, their efforts were still alive in these vessels filled with the miraculous liquid we call wine. Wine is so much more than a tasting note, or a high-scoring review, a tech sheet or a PH note. It is the liquification of many souls, from plant, to animal, to even the humans. It was a centerpiece of the Roman Catholic religion which took root in this place thousands of years ago. It was the blood of the prophet. And it was the heart and soul of the many different people who passed through this place.







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[07/18/2019, 12:41] From the "News" Desk - and a Little Personal Business
Quick post here before I sign off from the miasma we call the internet these days. And do a little celebrating.

Two new pieces about wine, which coincidentally have Italian wine in them. In the Dallas Morning News.

Dallas entrepreneur launches Crazy Beautiful Wines brand in big 1-liter bottles

The University of Dallas makes wine? Try this new red from vineyards on the school's Italian campus


In case anyone is interested, this link HERE shows my writing activity apart from this ?ol dinosaur blog. Since officially retiring I?ve done a piece a month ? so, that would be like a monthly column. I?m getting closer to my goal of wanting to be Gerald Asher when I grow up, although his writing is still head-and-shoulders above most of us. But a goal is a goal.


And my great accomplishment of retirement this month ? finally, after 20+ years, organizing the walk-in wine closet and freestanding wine cave. I now know what is in there, and most of the wines are still in tip-top shape. Some notes about what I?ve collected:

? Red wine is about 86% of what?s in there ? no surprise, because we go through the white ( and rose') a little faster and it is usually kept in a back fridge for prompt utilization.

? Dessert wines follow red wine in quantity, by a wide margin. OK, gotta get cracking some of those old ports soon, but not when it is 100?F outside.

? Italian wine accounts for the majority of the wine in there, followed by California, France and (surprise!) Texas (which is one short of the France total ? gotta stay loyal to the local).

? There are some dead soldiers in there, and I have made an area, a ?Paradiso? (or a bardo) to display them. Some great old memories there, many of which have been noted on this blog in the last 14 years.

? The oldest wine? 1936, and it is an Est!Est!!Est!!! from Lampani G. B. & Figli, bottled in 1939. It came to me in the early 1980?s from an auction in Ft. Worth, Texas. It is amabile. So, part of the ?sticky? brigade.



More on this later. But for now, there are other activities planned for this day. Thanks to all who reached out with well wishes. While it ain?t exactly a moon landing, I?m glad to be alive and celebrating another rotation around the sun.







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[07/14/2019, 18:40] Cracking Open the Corycian Cave (and the Key to Peace)
Pt. VI

"This was my revolution. Italian wine, in 1957, was not so delicious. It had alcohol, lots of dried earth flavor, but it was lacking life. I wanted the wine to be young and vibrant, youthful. Not tired. Not vinegar. Not brown. Red, like my blood. White, not brown. Like the clouds. And golden yellow, like a sun setting. I was totally immersed in this dreamworld, and there was nobody telling me to stop. And so, I ventured forth, and began my symphony of wine in 100 movements."

Daria let me in, it was barely sunrise and Diana was in her little study. As I approached her, I noticed the dog-eared book she loved so much was open to this passage:

?When it is understood that one loses joy and happiness in the attempt to possess them, the essence of natural farming will be realized. The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings.? ? Masanobu Fukuoka, The One-Straw Revolution

I was not a philosophy buff in college, tending more towards the arts, with a sprinkling of theology and mythology in my courses. I took a non-western course of studies, and words were not the emphasis I was being directed towards. It was a visual path: painting photography, filmmaking, ancient cultures. And to my introverted being, that was just fine. But here we were, in this little room, with these words. Perhaps words could be an artform too? In the hands of someone like Masanobu Fukuoka, this was a certainty. I?m not even sure my last sentence is defensible within philosophical discourse. I went into the kitchen; I needed some coffee.

The work of the day was to crack open the cavern where forty years of wine slept. Sure, some of it had escaped and one could find it in places in Florence, like I?ve said in earlier dispatches. But friends in my circles didn?t have 90,000 lire for wine. Those wines were for the collectors, the unicorn hunters. We were working our way up through adulthood, trying to get a job, get some clothes that weren?t moth-worn and eat decently. Wine was part of lunch and dinner, not some Holy Sacrament to be worshiped. But here I was in a Corycian Cave of sorts, with long winding passages, and room after room, filled with wine. And not just wine, but ALIVE wine! Where do we start?

Fortunately, Diana had a plan of sorts. Start with the white wines, as their lifespan would normally be shorter than the reds and the stickies.

The room reminded me of a section in the catacombs in Palermo that held the little children. With one exception. Everything in here was alive. Ann Rice wrote of an underground room in her novel, Interview With The Vampire. It was in the Th??tre des Vampires. And while these vampires were somewhat alive, they had none of the life these wines had. But like all three, the children in Palermo, the vampires in Paris and the wine in Tuscany, all were trapped. These could be saved, salvaged, even redeemed. But who in the outside world, outside of the trophy hunters, would care?

It was the time of big, heady wine with loads of wood and alcohol. The wines of the times shouted. These whispered. The highly regarded wines, rewarded with high points, 90 and above, were extroverts, screaming. These wines were introverts, barely audible. These were not the wines in fashion.

And too make matters more complicated, many of them were just wines in bottles, no denomination, sometimes not even a vintage. All we knew was that they were grown above in the vineyards in their native state. And they were made in a natural way. Not in the prepossessed way of the present in which every wine maker, merchant and marketer who wants to be seen as ?in? make statements with regards to their sustainability, their non-interventionism, their indigenous yeasting, their no sulfur regimen, all the trigger words to mark that one has ?arrived? in the world of real wine. None of this was stirring in these dark, cool, quiet rooms. Only wine, made naturally in the 1950?s, 1960?s, 1970?s and 1980?s. They had no one above on the outside world, proselytizing for them ? they were invisible. But God, were they alive!

Tasting notes:

1955 - White labeled ?SL-P? ? 200 720ml bottles stacked
My notes: Deep rich amber color. Notes of peach and linoleum. Very extracted, but alcohol, while healthy, is in check. Acidity is alive but not out of control. The finish is long. The flavor is plump but not fat. This could be a red wine if we were blindfolded. There is the flavor of toasted wheat, with notes of wildflowers, grass, even slight oregano, but not at all overpowering. This wine, at the time almost 30 years old, is very much alive.

1966 - hand labeled ?L'imperatore Pazzo ? Stravecchio? ? 52 demijohns.
Diana told me that this was a difficult year. It was a late harvest, compounded with torrential rains, a wheat harvest that was left partially on the ground, as the rains did not permit the workers to harvest. The grapes stayed on the vine, while Diana and her town worked in Florence to save precious artworks from the Arno floodwaters. When she came back there were ?10 glorious days of sun, warm and reinvigorating to the vines, saving the grapes, shriveling them a little to reduce the water they had been plumped up with. And we laid these grapes out on the mats to dry a little more, watching for rot. The vines had always been healthy, so this turn of events, while precarious, for grapes grown in harmony with nature, was not a fatal blow. But the wine took on a different life, and the color was deeper. That was why I put them in the demijohns, sealed them and left them to live out their youth in the dark here.?

My notes: Almost a vermouth sharpness to the wine as we raised the cork out of the demijohn. Like a genie escaping from the bottle. The color is chartreuse-like. It ?shimmers.? A slight petulance, with a healthy dose of acidity. But the fruit is subtle, mellow, in the shadows. I could drink this whole bottle, but a Tuscan restaurant has reserved several of these demijohns when they will be released and for a pretty penny.


1977 - White labeled ?Santa Lucia ? Procanica? ? 300 720ml bottles stacked.
Diana noted that a famous wine consultant had been on the cellar recently, as he was working on a white wine project for one of the big families of Tuscany and he?d been friends with her father. This man noted that this wine was an archetype and said he wanted to make this kind of wine ?famous for the world.? She doesn?t know what happened with that project as he never came back.

Diana said 1977 was an interesting vintage for her vines, in that there was a long, protracted season well into October. I remember because I was in Tuscany and Umbria in the fall of 1977 with my family and it was pleasant, little if any rain, constant sun, but regulated, not the beat down it has become in vineyards in August lately in this current era.

My notes: not as deeply colored as the 1955, but going towards a bright yellow into a dusky area of color. Clear, although showing sediment (tartrates, lees?) when the bottle was set upright, but which fell to the bottom of the bottle within 15 minutes. The flavor is umami-meaty and savory, with the plumpness this grape seems to exhibit in these vineyards. The fruit is ripe but not sickly sweet, again more savory than sweet. A very long finish with notes of persimmon, ginger and dried fig. Really a mouth filling wine without being a show-boat.


1980 - labeled simply ?Soli Ardenti? -still in a 550-liter concrete holding tank.
There was a long growing season, with plenty of sun, some needed heat, but then cooling off in September and ripening into early November. These were a field blend of predominantly white wine grapes, about 6 of them, with two thinner skinned red varieties normally used for bouquet or rosato wines. But Diana decided to harvest and ferment together with all the native yeasts from four different parcels on the property, essentially the four corners of the property as it was then. The wine went through a 6-month fermentation in concrete and was racked only once to clean out any detritions and then put back into the concrete tank in which it began its life. ?It?s incubator,? Diana likes to call it. ?This is one of my different children, with many personalities and very complex. But it could rival my red wines in terms of majesty and particularity. It has a little fizziness right now; it is still young and will probably lose the baby fuzz. But it has a wealth of fruit and is fat and how did you call it ? roly-poly??

My notes: indeed, this wine is fat and roly-poly. It?s like a giant peach with an underlying edge of nervosity. I remember a wine like this from the Haute-Savoie, very similar. The aromas, along with the peach, is like a giant fruit salad, in fact Diana calls this ?my big little Macedonia.? The wine is dry, but the fruit is rich with all that baby fat still on it. Wow ? I could drink this in the morning instead of coffee to a totally different destination. But it is one of the greatest white wines I have ever had. And it?s not even ready to be bottled, yet.


After a long week digging through just the white wines, I left on Friday afternoon for the weekend, where a friend of mine was having a photography exhibition. On parting, Diana gave me a hug and shared one of her favorite Fukuoka quotes,
?I contadini dappertutto nel mondo sono fondamentalmente gli stessi. Lasciateci dire che la chiave per la pace si trova vicino alla terra.?



? to be continued






wine blog +  Italian wine blog + Italy W
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[05/21/2019, 14:08] Mare&Mosto, ma anche diavolo&acqua santa
Si va a Sestri Levante, a girare per i tavoli di Mare&Mosto, per quella cosa che chiamiamo location, che pure in due giornate grigie e di pioggia merita abbondantemente il viaggetto. La Baia del Silenzio, la spiaggia, le barche a riva, con l'effetto mare d'inverno di questo memorabile (in quanto invernale) maggio 2019 sono tutti elementi di grande bellezza che hey, quasi ti potrebbero distrarre dagli assaggi. Fortuna che piove quindi si sta dentro al Convento dell'Annunziata, belli concentrati.

Siccome serve sempre un filo rosso che connetta la rassegna e le dia un'identit?, qui si assaggia solo Liguria. E accade un fatto insolito, vista lo schieramento tra filosofie produttive che ormai s'? determinato: da una parte le fiere di vini naturali, dall'altra tutto quanto il resto - qualunque cosa sia, e pure la prima categoria non ? facilissima da definire. Qui invece li troviamo tutti e due, i produttori: i naturali un po' radical e i convenzionali che boh, ti dicono: eh, s?, ci sono anche io.

Il diavolo e l'acqua santa assieme. E siccome a me le categorie, soprattutto quando sono schieramenti, finiscono per sembrare respingenti, mi piace saltare, qui a Mare&Mosto, di palo in frasca. Quindi assaggio serenamente Possa e Bosoni, che, vi assicuro, sono un po' come il giorno e la notte. Quale ti piace? Quale ti dispiace? Per me funziona (alle solite) nello stesso modo: dipende da che c'? nel bicchiere. Per esempio: Possa ha schierato, di nuovo, uno Sciacchetr? encomiabile. Bosoni aveva il Vermentino Etichetta Nera che (giuro) profumava di pesto. Ma mica solo basilico, eh. C'era tutta la ricetta, i pinoli il pecorino l'olio di oliva. Insomma una cosa mai vista e un bel po' spiazzante. Mi ? piaciuto? Beh, s?.

In generale di questa rassegna potrei segnalare le produzioni che vendo, come fossi un auto-influencer. Quindi meraviglioso il Cinqueterre 2018 Perci? di Cheo. Altrettando il Rossese 2018 di Terre Bianche. Ma siccome non ce la faccio, devo dire strabene di quelli che non vendo e che berrei e riberrei un giorno s? e uno no. I Rossese (tutti) di Giovanna Maccario. Quello di Ka' Mancin?. Tra l'altro ? stata una rassegna interessante per i rossi, che insomma identifichiamo un po' meno con la liguritudine, e invece sui miei appunti ci sono punteggi altissimi per Pulin 17 di Bruna (granaccia e un po' di syrah e barbera), Shalok 16 di Poggio Gorleri (granaccia). Sui bianchi per me trionfano sempre, alle solite, Maria Donata Bianchi (vermentino) e Laura Aschero (pigato). Sul fronte che definiamo naturale, ma sappiamo che la definizione sfugge tra le dita come la sabbia fine della Baia del Silenzio, per me c'e' Daniele Parma e Casa del Diavolo - con tutta la produzione.

Il fatto ? che non so risolvermi nella scelta tra i due stili. Non ne ho proprio alcuna voglia.
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[03/16/2019, 09:48] Genova Wine Festival visto da qui
Di l?, cio? su Intravino, ho dedicato al Genova Wine Festival tre post. Pure troppi, verrebbe da dire - ma comunque eccoli:

Qui racconto la genesi di tutto quanto: ? stata una vicenda a lungo pensata, e desiderata.
Qui promettevo cosa avremmo fatto, in sostanza - e abbiamo mantenuto le promesse, si pu? dire.
Qui spiego com'? andata alla fine: in modo parecchio soddisfacente.

E allora, c'? bisogno di un altro post che parli di Genova Wine Festival? S? e no: non esiste una cosa come bisogno di un altro post, a meno che questo non sia un blog personale nel quale chi scrive riversa il suo flusso di coscienza. Indovina un po', Diario enotecario ? anche quella roba l?.

Cos? mentre Intravino alla fine ? la blogzine istituzionale nella quale in un certo senso era necessario parlare di GWF, qui non c'? nessuna necessit?, nessuna istituzionalit?. Quindi uno pu? lasciarsi andare a considerazioni traverse, che magari non infilerebbe in un comunicato stampa o in un ambito istituzionale dove i discorsi si impostano.

Gi?, cosa ci ? successo nel frattempo? Siamo diventati pi? adulti? Mettere mano a GWF ? stato anche quello, fare una cosa da adulti. Ora che ? passato, per?, a me lascia quella sensazione un po' straniante, come dopo un esame scolastico. Ora che ho passato questo test, penso al prossimo. E s?, appunto, ? straniante. Poi mi pare di averne parlato in tutti i modi, ma i modi erano quelli istituzionali. Che ci ? successo, che mi ? successo? Eravamo quelli cazzari, e adesso ci escono di bocca cose come signore e signori, benvenuti nella splendida cornice.

Per questo uno tiene un blog personale, per dire: caro Diario, GWF ? stato anche altro, per me.

Per esempio, ricordo domenica sera quando tutto era finito, e le ultime cose erano state smontate. Quella sera, quando era molto tardi ed ero in uno dei miei soliti posti a bere, mi prende una grande, profonda, improvvisa tristezza. Al punto che ero arrabbiato con me stesso, e mi dicevo: ma che diavolo ti prende? E niente, era pi? forte di me, era arrivata una botta improvvisa, come se i nervi avessero ceduto - e immagino sia stato qualcosa del genere. Mesi e mesi a pensare a un progetto, e ora era tutto passato.

Il fatto ? che davvero, tutto quanto, ? cominciato molto tempo fa. Ero a Vinitaly 2018 e gi? ne parlavo, con alcuni produttori. Le aziende che hanno partecipato a GWF sono state scelte, tutte, una per una, contattandole personalmente. Ad ogni produttore abbiamo spiegato il nostro progetto, ma parlavamo di qualcosa che esisteva solo nella nostra mente, fino ad allora. Li abbiamo dovuti convincere, a volte, e a volte come ? normale non ci siamo riusciti: qualcuno non poteva partecipare, qualcuno aveva terminato il vino disponibile, qualcuno, legittimamente, potr? aver pensato: ma chi sono, questi qua? Sia come sia, ? stato un lavoro lungo, passato per infiniti contatti telefonici e di persona. Alla fine lo scopo era mettere assieme una specie di dream team di produttori che ci piacevano. Adesso che vedo la bolletta telefonica, vedo anche quanto a lungo sono stato al telefono. Insomma, ci abbiamo infilato una quantit? di energia pazzesca, in questo progetto. Mi piacerebbe adesso ringraziare, uno per uno, tutti i produttori che ci hanno creduto, e ci hanno detto di s?.

Per me poi questo lungo lavoro ? stato un fatto nuovo: lavorare con un gruppo di persone abbastanza numeroso, una squadra, e mi riferisco ai ragazzi di Papille Clandestine che hanno reso possibile concretamente tutto quanto. Io che sono un solitario, una ditta individuale e anche abbastanza individualista, ho cercato di lavorare in squadra, ho cercato di capire come ci si muove in una realt? complessa come quella - e mentre per qualcuno il lavoro di squadra ? pane quotidiano, per me era una novit? ed anche una sfida. Spero di aver fatto quel che ci si aspettava da me, ma adesso che sono nella fase dei ringraziamenti, dico grazie ai papilli che mi hanno voluto, assieme a Pietro, nel gruppo operativo di organizzatori, visto che GWF ? stato appunto una joint venture tra loro e il settore genovese di Intravino.

E siccome la rete non dimentica, e alla fine questo ? un quartierino ristretto, in questo post del 2010 (duemiladieci, ehm) scoprivo pi? o meno l'esistenza dei papilli. Ragazzi, ne ? passato di tempo, eh?

Adesso per? per non esagerare coi sentimentalismi, facciamo i buoni propositi. Si avvicina il prossimo Vinitaly, e gi? so che contatter? alcune aziende che sono nella nostra wish list, per il prossimo Genova Wine Festival. Perch? s?, pensiamo gi? all'edizione 2020.
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[01/22/2019, 08:48] Nuovi orari in enoteca (ed altri cambiamenti)
Caro diario, le cose cambiano. Potrei scriverlo sulle reti sociali, potrei scriverlo su Linkedin dato che parlo di cambiamenti lavorativi - e lo far?. Ma adesso lo scrivo qui: cambiano alcune cose intorno al mio lavoro.

Sto cominciando una nuova attivit?. Faccio il rappresentante, il venditore - di vini, ovviamente, resto con la bevanda odorosa. Sto esaminando proposte, qualcuna l'ho gi? accettata, solo non avevo ancora detto ufficialmente che all change.

E siccome il cambiamento riguarda anche l'enoteca, l'enoteca rimane, ma ad un regime di apertura ridotto. Cambia l'orario, rester? aperta solo nel pomeriggio, dalle 16 alle 19,30.

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[01/10/2019, 17:02] E adesso anche Genova Wine Festival. S?, sta arrivando una fiera del vino in citt
Il primo post dell'anno ? inevitabilmente in modalit? caro diario: in questi giorni di l? ma pure di qua, si preannuncia la cosa alla quale sto lavorando da tempo, assieme ad un gruppo nutrito (ci piace nutrirci, in effetti) di gente in gamba. Papille Clandestine e Intravino assieme, a Genova, preparano Genova Wine Festival, ed ecco fatto: vi annuncio che sta arrivando una fiera del vino in citt?, ed ? una cosa bella, grossa, nella quale stiamo mettendo il cuore e altre importanti frattaglie.

Dove: Palazzo Ducale, a Genova
Quando: sabato 2 e domenica 3 marzo
Questa ? la homepage
Questa ? la pagina Facebook
Questa ? la pagina dell'evento

Direi che per adesso basta, prendete appunti, e ovviamente ci vediamo l?. Sar? grandioso. Insomma s'? capito, ci tengo.
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[12/31/2018, 18:45] Notizie che nessuno ti dir? mai: ? finito un altro anno
Adesso che ho spento le luci e chiuso le serrande, accendo l'ultimo sigaro in ufficio e metto in ordine le ultime carte. La sera del 31 dicembre in enoteca ? tutto rituale, resto qui a vedere che succede, e mi prendo il tempo per pensare a quel che ? successo. Potrei andare via prima - ogni anno mi dico, il 31 pomeriggio non lavoro, che diavolo. E poi ogni anno resto qui, accanto alla mia creatura fino all'ultimo - perch? questa ? la mia enoteca, una mia creatura.

Me ne vado sentendo una canzone che mi si ? infilata in testa, tratta dalla scena del film che vedete qua sotto. The ballad of Buster Scruggs ? uno strano western, e non c'? modo di raccontarlo senza spoilerare quindi siete avvisati. ? la scena di un finale di partita inaspettato, uno dei due pistoleri cade a terra morto e non doveva andare cos?. ? una sorpresa, brutta per quello che cade, brutta per chi guarda, e ti mette davanti per l'ennesima volta al fatto che ti devi aspettare l'inaspettato.

Soprattutto, non passer? molto tempo, e ti ritroverai (inaspettatamente) a cantare la tua ultima cowboy song.

Let me tell you, buddy
There's a faster gun
Coming over yonder
When tomorrow comes

Let me tell you, buddy
And it won't be long
Till you find yourself singing
Your last cowboy song

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[12/27/2018, 10:50] Dieci assaggi memorabili. S?, ecco un classico post di fine anno
Si pu? finire l'anno in due modi: fare un bilancio degli eventi e buoni propositi per l'avvenire, oppure elencare dieci assaggi memorabili del 2018. A me quest'anno andava di gran lunga la numero due.

Anche la classifica dei dieci non ? esattamente una top ten di etichette - semmai ? un elenco di aziende interessanti, con magari un assaggio specifico che ha brillato pi? di altri. In fondo anche l'idea di classifica si smaterializza. Alcuni di questi vini li vendo, altri non li vendo perch? li ho esauriti, altri non li vendo perch? (ancora) non li ho comprati, e questo pi? che un disclaimer ? un fatto.

L'ordine non ? in base alla preferenza, ma in base a quanto velocemente mi sono tornati in mente, essendo io affezionato al famoso "la cultura ? ci? che resta nella memoria quando si ? dimenticato tutto" - che ho sempre opposto alle scene mute che facevo durante le interrogazioni a scuola, senza successo, ma siccome mi piace tiro sempre fuori la citazione.

1. San Cristoforo, Franciacorta 
? un po' che li tengo d'occhio, e il riassaggio del loro Brut, ma pure del finissimo millesimato, mi confermano l'idea di franciacortino di riferimento. Buoni, eleganti, di bella personalit?. Bravi insomma.

2. Andreas Berger, Alto Adige 
Ho notato che non esiste un vino di questa azienda (Thurnhof) che sia, semplicemente, sotto il livello dell'eccellenza. Potrei dire del loro Moscato secco (fermo) 2017, piccolo capolavoro, e farei un torto a tutti gli altri. Vabbe'. Per me cult.

3. Vis Amoris, Liguria 
Qui pi? che il loro Pigato, la sua derivazione metodo classico. Le bollicine in Liguria per me restano un fatto difficoltoso, qui invece ho cambiato idea all'istante. Esiste anche una versione sur lie, col fondo, insomma quella cosa l? ancestrale, ci siamo capiti. Ottimi livelli pure l?.

4. Garnier, Borgogna 
Durante l'ultimo corso avevo inserito il loro Chablis 1er Cru, e capirai, ? stato come vincere facile. Invece qui memorizzo il loro Pinot Noir Epineuil 2015, che ? - come dirlo in modo non riduttivo? un Borgogna base, ma io direi basilare. Fruttini accennati, stile e trama, godevole e succoso.

5. Tenuta Belvedere, Oltrep? Pavese 
Io credo che la Bonarda, quella frizzante, dovrebbe essere salvata dal destino di vino triste da supermercato. Ci riesce Gianluca Cabrini con questo 2016, un campione delizioso di piacevolezza bevibile, poi zero solfiti aggiunti che fa molto figo ultimamente.

6. Miotto, Veneto 
Tra tanti prosecco a rifermentazione naturale, con il doveroso tappo metallico e il fondo, questo Profondo si piazza fisso nella memoria, e nella voglia di berlo e riberlo - pure troppo, l'ho venduto tutto e a me non ne resta, ma che ho combinato? Accidenti a me.

7. Weingut Am Stein, Franconia (Germania)
Poi giuro la smetto con i rifermentati naturali, ma questo Pure & Naked, pet-nat (petillant, naturale), ? un capolavoro di memorabilit?, anzi vorrei riberlo circa domani (a trovarlo: assaggiato durante una fiera). Leggiadro come una piuma e nello stesso tempo col cipiglio germanico. Comunque lo struggimento ? tanto che gli dedico la foto del post.

8. Dettori, Sardegna
S? va bene il loro Chimbanta, va bene l'Ottomarzo, ma pure il Tenores. Io quest'anno memorizzo il Renosu bianco, un colpo al cuore di sale, mare, erbe aromatiche, ma che ci hai messo l? dentro? E questo sarebbe il loro bianco cadetto. Ma avercene.

9. Terre Bianche, Liguria
Cos'? che mi piace di pi? nel Rossese di Dolceaqua? ? perch? ? ligure? ? perch? ? teso e leggiadro? Sono le spezie, il marino, ? perch? ? un vino di montagna? ? perch? parte piano poi si svela alla grande, e quando credi di averlo compreso ? finita la bottiglia? Comunque parlavo del Rossese 2017.

10. Poderi Cellario, Piemonte 
C'? questa generazione di vini minimalisti, nella bottiglia da litro, col nome pure lui minimalista. Per esempio "? Rosso". E di pi? non chiedere, bevi e poche pippe. E noi wine blogger allora che dovremmo fare, bere e zitti? Ecco, non sempre: ? Rosso mi piace tanto. Va bene come rece minimalista?

Buon anno nuovo, e tutto quanto.
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[10/29/2018, 15:52] I vini toscani


Quali sono i vitigni in Toscana?

La Toscana ? una zona famosa nel mondo per la sua produzione di vino, e di vini rossi in particolare con il 70% della produzione.
Il vitigno principale ? il Sangiovese con le sue varianti come il Canaiolo nero ed il Ciliegiolo. I vini classificati come supertuscans hanno portato l'integrazione ad altri vitigni a bacca nera internazionali, come il Pinot Nero, il Cabernet sauvignon, il Merlot e lo Syrah. 
Per quanto riguarda le uve bianche, la pi? diffusa ? il Trebbiano Toscano, seguito dalla Malvasia Bianca Lunga, la Vernaccia di San Gimignano e l?Ansonica. Anche lo Chardonnay, con cui producono vini bianchi spesso maturati in Barrique, ha una buona diffusione. 

Zone di produzione in Toscana

Il Chianti e Chianti Classico 
Comprende in tutto o in parte le province di: FirenzeSienaArezzoPisaPistoiaPrato
Vi sono diverse tipologie di Chianti, sette delle quali ricadono come sottozone all?interno della Chianti DOCG e sono i Colli Aretini, i Colli Senesi, i Colli Fiorentini, le Colline Pisane, RufinaMontalbano e Montespertoli, alla quali si aggiunge la DOCG Chianti Classico, prodotto nella zona pi? antica e tradizionale, dalla quale provengono i Chianti pi? celebri. 
I vini Chianti sono prodotti prevalentemente con Sangiovese e Canaiolo Nero,  oltre ad altre uve ammesse dal disciplinare come il Cabernet Sauvignon e Merloted una piccola parte di Malvasia Bianca e Trebbiano Toscano. 
Il Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Una delle sei DOCG della Toscana, ? il Vino Nobile di Montepulciano prodotto con uva Prugnolo Gentile (ossia il Sangiovese Grosso), a cui si aggiunge del Canaiolo Nero e facoltativamente ed in minor misura il Mammolo ed il Colorino. 
Il Nobile di Montepulciano era noto gi? nel 1500 per la sua qualit?, ma fu negli anni '60 che si inizi? a riscoprire questo vino del territorio di Montepulciano, splendido borgo in provincia di Siena, ed inizi? un processo di recupero dell?immagine che ebbe il suo compimento nel 1980, quando al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano venne riconosciuta la certificazione di DOCG.
Il Brunello di Montalcino
Il Brunello di Montalcino ? sicuramente il vino Toscano pi? famoso, non solo in Italia ma in tutto il mondo. Il nome deriva dal nome dell'uva Sangiovese Grosso chiamata appunto Brunello, con cui viene prodotto. Fu ad opera di Ferruccio Biondi Santi, che avvenne la rinascita di questo vino ed il relativo successo e fama internazionale. Il Brunello di Montalcino, oggi riconosciuto come DOCG, viene prodotto con Sangiovese grosso in purezza e pu? essere immesso al consumo solo dopo 5 anni dalla vendemmia (6 per la riserva), con un periodo minimo di maturazione in botte di due anni. Oggi sono circa 250 le cantine che propongono il vino Brunello per una produzione di 6,5 milioni di bottiglie.
Le altre zone vinicole della Toscana
La Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG ? un vino bianco prodotto prodotto appunto con l?omonima uva. Il Morellino di Scansano, prodotto prevalentemente con uva Sangiovese, localmente detto Morellino. Il Vin Santo, prodotto anche in altre regioni d?Italia, in Toscana ? riconosciuto come DOC nelle denominazioni del Vin Santo del ChiantiVin Santo del Chianti Classico e Vin Santo di Montepulciano. Il Vin Santo Toscano viene prodotto con uve Trebbiano Toscano e Malvasia Bianca, ma esiste anche una versione rossa da uve Sangiovese, che prende il nome di Occhio di Pernice
La Carmignano DOCG si trova in provincia di Prato e produce esclusivamente vini rossi da uve Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon e Cabernet Franc.
Cosa sono i Supertuscans?
Supertuscans,  appartengono generalmente alla categoria IGT.
Supertuscans sono vini robusti e complessi prodotti in prevalenza con uve ?internazionali? quali Cabernet SauvignonMerlot e Pinot Nero, alle quali in alcuni si unisce il Sangiovese


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[10/25/2018, 09:33] Smellier, cloudier, juicier, more acidic and generally truer
Leggo solo oggi questo vecchio pezzo di The Guardian, che parla di vini naturali - quasi fosse un wine blog, per attirare click. No vabbe' dai, sto scherzando, si capiva, s?? Guardian scrive di vini naturali a modo suo, e cio? in modo assai rilevante e quindi questa lunga, lunga lettura la mettiamo da parte, perch? ? un ritratto molto esauriente. Prendetevi il tempo per leggere tutto, se ancora vi mancava.

Guardian riesce anche a dire alla veloce cosa sia un vino naturale, e per questo l'ho adoperato per titolare il mio post: "they tend to be smellier, cloudier, juicier, more acidic and generally truer to the actual taste of grape than traditional wines". Notevole anche l'immagine, che riciclo - una cosa a met? tra lo steampunk e il disaster movie.
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[10/20/2018, 07:05] Cose da fare a Genova (questo fine settimana)
Anzich? spiegare tanto, ecco che annuncia il Tg3 Liguria: ? di nuovo tempo di Genova Beer Festival, la meglio rassegna birraria della regione, ma che dico, del mondo - dove peraltro il quipresente vostro si accinge ad abbinare sigari (sul genere toscano) a birre, come da foto, nel laboratorio di domenica sera. Insomma, che aspetti, ci si vede l?, sabato sera e domenica all day long.

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[09/04/2018, 07:01] Guide for Choosing a Good Dentist

If you have dental issues or complications, it is necessary that you find a good dentist who will take care of your needs. However, the issue is, there are many dentists the market today and settling for the best may be tricky. For this reason, you need to take time and find the?best dentist in Miami who will offer the type of services you require. Dentists have various types of services they offer. There are those who have specialized in a particular field while some are general dentists who deal with almost all dental issues. If you are looking for a dentist, here are quick factors that you can consider looking at so that you get the best dentist.

Check on Experience

First, when searching for a dentist to offer dental services to you, we recommend that you try checking out the experience of your prospective dentist. This is a crucial aspect to check on because the longer the experience, the more quality services the dentist will offer. A dentist who has been offering dental services for years will be well placed to handle your dental needs than one who has just started practicing. This is applicable because past experiences will help the dentist be in a position to handle and manage any dental complications.

Check on Specialization

Secondly, when you want to settle on the best dentist, it is essential that you first understand the kind of dental service you need. This will help you know the kind of dentist you need. Dentists have various services that they offer. Some offer specialized dental services, and that means you need to know exactly what you are seeking for.

Check on Training

With the increased need for dental services, some individuals will want to take advantage of that and start offering dental services but they are not qualified. Therefore, to avoid falling prey for such fake dentists, it?s essential that when searching for a dentist, you should check to know if the dentist is trained. The dentist should declare his or her qualifications and show you the documents which give evidence for that. This way, you will get dental services from dentists who have undergone proper training in dental health.

Consider the Reputation

When searching for a good dentist, it is also advisable that you consider knowing the reputation of your prospective dentist. You need to know how many successful cases of dental procedures the dentist has offered. Similarly, you need to know what people feel about the services that the dentist offers. This way, you will understand if the dentist will be suitable to offer dental services that you may need.…

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[08/26/2018, 05:19] Six Hints to Choose the Best Drug Rehab Nj

Addiction to the drug can ruin your life. It reaches a point where you want to get rid of the addiction, but you cant that easily. If you are at this juncture, you should visit a respected and reliable drug rehab NJ. An excellent drug rehab center will help you to stay away from drug or alcohol addiction. The hints as discussed below will help you to decide the best drug rehab NJ for your recovery.

Licensing

Perhaps, this is the first issue that you should reconsider before determining a drug rehabilitation center. Facilities that don’t have valid licenses might not help you to recover fully. Lack of a valid license means that the facility that you are visiting is not recognized by the authorities and might be operating against the law. Stay away from rehabs without licenses as they will only rob you of your hard earned money.
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Treatment Procedures

The treatment protocols used at a facility might raise or reduce your chances of recovery. For instance, you should find out whether your chosen facility provides detox together with other therapies and counseling. When you come across a drug rehab?that offers such treatment, then you will be on the right path to quick recovery. High-end facilities also offer yoga when they think its necessary.

Highly Qualified Staff

The level of experience of the employees working at the rehab center that you choose might impact negatively or positively on your recovery. If you decide to go for an inpatient facility make sure that that the staff are available around the clock. You should also check whether the staff are registered by the relevant authorities to confirm that they have the necessary experience.

High Patient Staff Ration

If you get admitted to a rehab center with few staffs, then you might not get the attention that you want. Rehab centers that have more doctors and nurses will give you the care that you need for quick recovery.

Aftercare Treatment

Once you are done with your rehabilitation program, it’s essential that you are closely monitored to reduce your odds of succumbing to drug abuse again. The aftercare you require varies depending on your requirements as well as the degree of addiction. However, it’s suggested that you see your doctor weekly or once in a fortnight after leaving the rehab center to chat about your progress and the difficulties that you might be encountering.

Pricing and Insurance

Most people don’t know that rehabilitation therapies can cost you a fortune. For this cause, you should find out how much the treatment will cost in advance to avoid nasty surprises. In most cases, expensive rehabilitation centers offer the best care. If you have a valid medical insurance policy, you should discover whether your chosen facility accepts it and how much it can cover.

If you are having an uphill task trying to get away from drugs, it’s better to get treatment sooner than later. You will come across a number of drug rehab NJ centers to pick from online and to make a sound decision keep the hints as explained above in mind.…

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[08/23/2018, 14:03] Coming up With a Weekly Meal Plan

Healthy eating is essential for your general well-being. The type of food you eat plays a critical role in determining the health status of your body. Most health or diet experts advice one to take in a balanced diet to keep their bodies in the perfect shape. The Dad Quarters have some of the best reviews and health advice that can help keep you in good shape. Your food should be made up of proteins, vitamin, carbs, and irons.

There are a number of food deficiency illnesses you can contract if you fail to consume a balanced diet. The most common ones include malnutrition, rickets, and scurvy. Most of these conditions are usually common among kids. Failure to take in a balanced diet can also weaken your body?s defense system.

Your body will not be able to fight certain conditions, and this will leave you weak or falling sick most of the time. Proteins play an essential role in the growth and development of your body. They do help increase muscle mass. Carbohydrates help provide your body with energy to carry out some activities. They act as fuel to your body.

Vitamins boost your immune system and improve your body functions. You can find all these nutrients in different foods. One thing you can do to make sure you consume a balanced diet is come up with your own menu that has all types of meals. This might be a difficult task for many. Here is how you can come up with a weekly meal plan that is made up of a balanced diet.

Look for Recipes

The first thing you should do when coming up with your home menu is to look for recipes. Look for recipes used in making different types of meals. Make sure the different types of meals make up a balanced diet. Getting different recipes will help make your job more comfortable when it comes to creating a weekly meal plan.

Sort your Recipes

The next thing you should do is sort out the different recipes according to the nutrients contained in them. One that is used for cooking a protein-rich meal should be separated from one that is used to prepare a meal with any other type of nutrient. Make sure that each day you have a meal rich in a specific type of nutrient.

Stock your Kitchen

You can now stock your kitchen with the different types of foods so that you can have easy access to them. Failing to do so may see you change your meal plan because you are not able to reach the type of meal for that particular day. Do not overstock because some of them may go bad quickly. Cook the perishables first.…

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[08/22/2018, 16:17] Facts About Provillus

This is one of the hair supplement used in preventing hair loss. Hair loss is common in both men and women. This condition is associated with family history, hormonal changes, and certain medical conditions. It is also caused by scalp infections such ringworms. Drugs uses in treating cancer, arthritis, heart problems and blood pressure are the ones that cause hair loss. The other causes of this issue include emotional shock, excessive weight loss, a high fever, and radiation therapy. Provillus is purely natural and it can be used by both women and men. Apart from preventing hair loss, this product is effective in promoting regret of the lost hair. Again, it has complex ingredients that prevent hair loss.

Ingredients of Provillus

It contains natural ingredients such as pumpkin seeds, zinc, propylene glycol, nettle root, water biotin, and vitamin B6. These components are beneficial for hair growth and for the hair follicles? health. Again, they are well combined to bring the desired results. Provillus works by providing vital elements and necessary?nutrients needed by the hair.

Vitamin 6 is one of the essential vitamins for maintaining a healthy hair. Its natural character is helpful for reducing side effects and allergic reactions. It should be used regularly to restore weak hair, prevent hair loss and make hair thicker. Individuals who take this supplement regularly can enjoy their hair coverage after three months. You can get many customers testimonials in the internet.

 

Advantages of Provillus

  • It is effective in promoting hair growth in bald spots and other hair thinning areas
  • Its active ingredients have potent hair regrowth properties
  • It shows positive results after a few months or weeks
  • It has become very popular due to its many positive reviews and effectiveness.
  • It contains essential vitamins, and minerals making it easy for use.

Negative Effects of Provillus

  • You will be required to use this product continuously for you to enjoy its benefits
  • It can cause some side effects when used in higher amounts than indicated. It can lead to a feeling of?light-headedness or dizziness, and swelling of tongue and lips. Individuals who experience these side effects are advised to consult a doctor.

How is Provillus Used?

You should take one capsule every day. It should be taken with food such as breakfast. It is very hard to get it for the local drugstores. It can be purchased from its official website.…

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