If we didn?t have climate change, or as some called it early on, in the beginning, global warming, we?d still have Etna. Can the local practices put into place, because of the pressures of Etna, act as an instructional manual for other grape growing places in the world dealing with the immediacy of climate change? I wondered that as I walked along a lava strewn path early one morning. The weather was changing from the warm breeze of summer to the looming fog and coolness of autumn, in the background was the eternal soundtrack playing the low groans of the earth?s core and Etna acting as a megaphone for those rumblings.

If these words sound as if I have channeled my inner Empedocles, I wouldn?t fault any of you. It does feel as though I threw myself into the fiery flames of Etna, although with no wish or claim to become immortalized. No, I am merely feeling what happened to me, or us, in those days. Or to those who remain on the mountain all their lives. In other words, the mountain controls all life there.

And so, what of the wine coming from that process? Is it not a bit of an odious comparison when some folks try and draw equivalents between Etna and Burgundy? I?ve been to both places and the feeling is sure not the same. In my view, the life of the vine, and the people who tend them, in Burgundy, is vastly different from those on and in Etna ? radically!

Sicily being another country apart from  Italy (disagree with me if you will, but change my mind you will not), things have always been done a little differently anyway. Plop an active and very voluble volcano onto it, and you have the stuff operas are written about. Except this is a slow train of geological history, sputtering up the hill, slowly but very determinedly.

When one is in a place where a tornado hits, depending on where one sits and where the tornado hits, there can be many different reactions and responses. A few years ago, one came remarkably close to where we live. We suffered relatively minor damage, a few tree limbs down and a piece of roof tar missing. But a mile away, homes were wiped from the face of the earth.

And likewise, on Etna, there will be different points of contact and with it, interpretations of style and taste. And that is the stew we are cooking at the moment. It?s a slumgullion, as we say in America, a slow stew with ingredients from all corners of the world. On Etna, now that the world has discovered it and it is a hot piece of real estate, the various ingredients have ascended upon the mountain, with their money and their values and their ideas and their hopes and dreams. Along with the indigenous folk who have been there for centuries. One thing for sure, the mountain, as always, will call the shots. The wine that will be made and those who make the wine, eventually must defer to the will of Etna; you can be sure of that.

 

AC: Thank you for communicating with me. It?s an honor. I?ve heard so much about you from my friend. Where do we start?

ND: Seeing as we are nearing harvest time and I am still producing grapes, my energy levels aren?t what they used to be 50 years ago. But I want to talk about something that has been worrying me a little.

AC: What so? Please, feel free to speak freely.

AC: Most likely there were. There was a natural wine movement that became fashionable. And it transitioned to a form of winemaking they noted as non-interventionist. ?Let the wine make itself,? was the mantra.

ND: You?ve got to be kidding me! What do grapes know about making wine? How did this happen?

AC: It was a movement, a fashion of sorts. It still lingers in some parts, and in some areas, it can produce good results. But it depends on the intentions of the winemaker and what kind of wine they are looking to make and present to their clients. Some have said that the realm of deliciousness has been abandoned by many so-called natural winemakers, but that hasn?t been my experience. There are people who know how to make wine and there are those who do not. And even if one is of the philosophy that the wine makes itself, it?s a little like being a shepherd. One still must provide guidance to make sure everyone gets home safe and sound. And so, in wine, the idea of a sound wine is coming back into focus. Along with deliciousness.

AC: Yes, that was a movement in Italy and other countries and it changed wine forever. Some say for the better. But the up-and-coming generations wanted to try some of the older methods. That might be why you are hearing some of the terms that you heard when you were younger. I don?t think it is a problem. There are a lot of people on the mountain experimenting with how to make Etna wine. And even though there isn?t a consistent method or application in the present, I sense there is a moving forward. There is also a great thirst for the older things ? the lost grapes, the lost techniques, the older ways ? it?s kind of a time of nostalgia. Which bodes well for you older vines, as there is interest in you.

ND: Well, that?s good news, I suppose. You know, when you get as old as I am, you lose some of your vigor. What you don?t lose, if you are lucky enough to have it, is your resilience and your desire to put your best foot forward, to borrow a phrase from your species. Here we are firmly planted on our earth and the only travel we do is not with our feet, but with our arms and our tendrils. We reach out. But when you get to be over 100 years old, the reaching diminishes. Our output too. But our grapes still have unique character.

AC: That?s why you old-timers are so coveted, especially here on Etna. And if you are old enough to have remained on your original root stock, even more so. You are historic, and also you survived a great plague which almost wiped out all the grape vines which produce wine, in that last century or so.

AC: I have a question for you. Many winemakers are lamenting that last year the harvest on the mountain was diminished by something called peronospora, or downy mildew. Did that affect you older ones as badly?

ND: Funny you  would mention that. Some of us elders were recently discussing that. We did not seem to be as affected as the younger vines. But our vigor, as I already mentioned, is lower and perhaps not as attractive to the pathogen, which might be looking for more robust leaves and shoots. In any case, no, were not hurt. But the younger vines were all howling last year, it was quite unnerving, as it seemed to have gone deep into the vine community and caused a lot of suffering. And, after all, we are all connected.

AC: Indeed, we are. Well, I see the sun is setting and I must get back to my hotel. Thank you for speaking with me.

ND: Come back anytime. We?ll probably be here for some time. Or as long as the fire in the mountain allows us to be.

While on Etna recently, I talked to a farmer, Giuseppe. He?s been tending his land for several decades now. He?s not a young man, but he certainly has many years left under the volcano. I asked him about co-habitating with La Muntagna.

I thought it odd at first, his use of the word destiny. But ask anyone in any way familiar with the soul of a Sicilian, and the subject will ultimately come up over such forces of destiny. Operas have been written about it. It?s seared into our DNA; it runs through the veins of humans and down the slopes of Etna. Where else in the world does something like this eventually become wine? I believe that is one of the reasons, unconscious though it may be, that the wines from Etna are so compelling to both insiders and outsiders. The energy of a transformation, from destiny to this liquid that one can pour into a glass, sit on a porch and watch the world go about its business. It?s one of the things that still drives me to wine.

That was the next foray into our conversation. I asked Giuseppe if he felt the need to tame his little plot or to just ?let it be.?

I understood that ?hold? from my youth and my mountain. I got what Giuseppe was saying. But Etna is in a bit of a spotlight right now. The grapes, the wines, the changes, the moment.

Etna is like a giant block of marble. The artist who looks at it sees a finished sculpture inside it. But there are more than one artist, and several views of what Etna and her wines should be. And then there is Etna, who ultimately decides. At least that?s what Giuseppe thinks when he told me so.

?This guy comes in from Milan, this guy from Hollywood. Everyone packs their bags and brings their stuff with them. Meanwhile, Etna, up there ( he points) she is in charge. Not some guy who read about Cornelissen and now wants to be Frank 2.0.?

?Why do they think they can conquer Etna? My family has been here for generations. When the mountain rumbles, we look for cover. These guys, it?s like they read about sharks in the Mediterranean and then they go out swimming to find them. They will find them.?

?Well, something must draw them to this place. Could it be that different from what drew your family to here?? I countered.

Giuseppe leaned on the staff of his hand cultivator and struck a pensive pose. He was quiet. Thinking. It felt like several minutes passed before he spoke. It probably wasn?t that long. But to say it was a pregnant pause would be an understatement.

It was quite a speech. Afterwards, he asked me not to use his (or her) real name, as the politics of the mountain have gotten more complicated. I agreed and said I would alter the persona so as not to be traceable. But still, he had a point.

What is Etna here for? Is it to give glory to man?s dreams? Or is man (and woman) here to carry out the plans of La Muntagna? I think we?re seeing (and hearing) that opera playing out in real time, here in Sicily. 

As it has always been, as it will always be.

While on Mt. Etna recently, I would get up early, before sunrise, and sit on my little patio, watching the sun making its way to the mountain. Birds were awakening, the world was rousing. Etna was there, waiting.

If you lived all your life in a city or in the flatlands, it might be hard to describe the influence a mountain has on the inhabitants who dwell nearby. Undeniably, Etna has a force that dominates the area. It can be seen as threatening, but it?s Nature. It?s neither good nor evil. It can be seen as either or both, at times. But it?s living its life and those who live on or in the mountain are part of something larger than one?s own individual existence. That?s what makes Etna and the wines of Etna so compelling, to those who feel that energy.

Etna, however, has this ongoing churn. In the morning you can hear it rumble and simmer. When it heats up too much, sirens go off over the area affected. It?s a reminder of the evanescence of our little lives, something to put it into perspective with the geological time that prevails over our earth and Etna.

Grape growing and winemaking on Etna is like nowhere I have seen elsewhere on earth?s wine country. It has to do with the way time is felt there and measured in an amorphous manner. No, no one has left their watch on the bedroom bureau. But the 21^st century pace here isn?t as prevailing.

?And what has that to do with us?? cry the chorus of wine writers, experts, inhalers and influencers in the room as we taste through hundreds of wines from Etna? It does come back to the specialized nature of these Etna Days, doesn?t it? No time to fall into that burning ring of fire.

But, but? there is nothing but time for La Muntagna. And to be here for a few days, or over several decades, that  can precipitate a breakthrough for those with an open eye and an even more open heart. Etna is turning fire into liquid ? an alchemy of sorts that we?ve been summoned to witness and feel, taste and experience. Where on earth can you fall into the core, bubbling, hot beyond any Hell we can imagine, and put it to one?s lips, and not be burned, but embraced?

 Etna, that?s where. 

But now, in 2024, I was here as a guest of the Consorzio Tutela Dei Vini Etna DOC at their event, Etna Days. They arranged my airfare and meals and hotels while I was in their care. They didn?t ask me to cover the event in any particular way, or really at all. There was no tit-for-tat, although being a lover of Italian wine and Sicily, that, for me was a given. So, let?s dig in.

Regular readers to this site will already know my general dislike for wine tasting notes. While I tasted hundreds of wines while in and on Etna, I cannot imagine listing them here. Who will read them? Who will care? And, really, that?s not why I am here. You wish a view and a feel for Etna? I can do that. You want a taste? You?re on your own. Go to Etna. Taste. Tasting is believing.

No, I?m here to paint a picture of the place. In the 30+ years I have been going to La Muntagna, I?ve seen sweeping changes. We talk about geologic time. On Etna, time is measured in larger doses, for sure. But the last several generations have been geologic in effect - a whole lot of changes going on.

Even the last eight years have shown me that Etna is moving at a pace that might be hard to pin down. It?s light years different from 2016 ? light years! It was almost as if they had plopped another reality right down on the existing ones, palimpsest-like. But then again, Sicily is the epi-center of palimpsest-like occurrences. And Etna is no exception.

People talk about the energy there, and it is undeniable. But how does that translate to wine and winemaking in 2024? We hear about the history of the place, when it was an economic wine power center, providing grapes, must, wine and alcohol for a world beyond, which suckled, long and hard, at the teats of Etna. Am I being too graphic? With no apologies, I feel what I feel, when I am there. And though much of that 19^th century early industrial energy has long dissipated, it doesn?t take more than a walk or two in the feral hills to know that the energy is there, waiting to re-awaken and carry on. 

Of course, now it must contend with the 21^st century social and emotional ardor that is populating Etna in the present times. It?s not quite like rearranging the desk chairs on the Titanic, more like a game of musical chairs during a fire drill. Etna is not boring! Nor are the wines. But exactly what are they, and where are they leading to? And how does the notion of Etna integrate towards a more thorough understanding of Sicily and Sicilian-ness? 

These are some of the questions I came home with, and ones which I will dive in for this series. 

Recommended further reading by other participants at the conference/workshop: Tasting Report: Red and White Wines of Mt. Etna by Meg Maker  

? written and photographed by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy

Ci troviamo in uno di quegli angoli di paradiso che davvero difficilmente escono dalla mente. Siamo a Marina del Cantone, al Ristorante Quattro Passi, sulle spalle tutto il peso e la consapevolezza di quarant?anni di storia. Tutto ebbe inizio con il nonno di Fabrizio Mellino, l?attuale chef-patron, che possedeva una piccola rivendita di uova autoprodotte da un allevamento di galline. Da li all’apertura di una pizzeria ?A Quattro Passi? dal mare, fino alla grande crescita e attuale proposta gourmet portata avanti nel tempo dal pap? Antonio ed ora dal figlio Fabrizio. Questo tempio della cucina mediterranea offre materie prime locali, sapori e tecniche d’eccezione, che si fondono in una danza per il palato. La cucina di Fabrizio profuma di mare, non mancano contaminazioni francesi e giapponesi, tutto all’insegna della semplicit? e del piacere. L’invito ? quello di abbandonarsi all’emozionante accoglienza della Famiglia Mellino e del suo staff, per passare un momento indimenticabile di vero gusto.

La squadra:

Direttore ristorante: Raffaele Mellino
Maitre: Mario Autiero
Sommelier: Chiara Audino
Chef de rang: Antonino De Gregorio
Head Chef: Fabrizio Mellino
Sous Chef: Antonio Pennacchio
Pastry Chef: Gaetano Riemma

Ci accomodiamo di fronte a una delle viste pi? spettacolari del golfo!

Il nostro tavolo….

Men? dedicato alla tappa del roadshow!

Inizio fresco e frizzante con Franciacorta Brut Grande Cuv?e ‘Alma’ – Bellavista

Ricco di sentori floreali e fruttati, leggermente vanigliati, di buona sapidit? e freschezza. Dotato di un bel perlage, ? affinato per 36 mesi sui lieviti.

Il benvenuto dello chef:

• Dattero Sostenibile
• Choux con gambero lime e caviale
• Panzarotto farcito con ricotta di bufala e provala
• Croccante di melanzana
• Bao alla marinara con alici

Brindiamo con un calice di Champagne Blanc De Blancs Brut – TSARINE

Ottenuto da Chardonnay al 100% della C?te des Blancs, questo vino offre un colore oro pallido esaltato da sfumature smeraldo e perlage fine e persistente. Al naso rivela profumi di fiori di tiglio, biancospino, limone candito e aromi di tostatura, creando un’esperienza sensoriale indimenticabile ripresa dal sorso.

Pane e grissini fatti in casa…

Il mio giardino: acqua di pomodoro gelificata con olio extravergine d’oliva.

Partiamo con il Fiore di calamaro con tartare di scampo, caviale Oscietra, acqua di mela verde. Un esordio verticale, pulito, carezzevole, fresco meraviglioso agli occhi come in bocca.?

A cui abbiniamo l’incredibile Champagne?Extra Brut La Confluente 2018 – Domaine La Borderie?

Assaggiamo ora l’incredibile “Lardo“: non fettine di lardo di colonnata ma sfoglie di seppia e ricciola.?Di una consistenza incredibile, scioglievolezza piacevole e inganno visivo che divertono molto.

Solletichiamo il palato con il Wafer di Triglia, arancia e rosmarino. Due cialde croccanti che racchiudono all?interno dei filetti di triglia di scoglio, accompagnati da una spuma di patate, olii aromatici all?arancia e al rosmarino. Yin e Yang della Costiera Amalfitana, l?agrume e la macchia Mediterranea che si fondono insieme. Pronti per l?inzuppo?

Un extra per buoni intenditori: Spaghetto di Gragnano al pomo d’oro: piatto in cui si esalta l’olio extravergine d’oliva, sugo ottenuto con un’estrazione a freddo con un datterini giallo e rosso.

Assaggiamo ora Cervaro Della Sala 2020 Umbria IGT – Marchesi Antinori?

Uve Chardonnay unite ad una piccola parte di Grechetto per un vino pensato per affinare nel tempo e rappresentare l?eleganza e la complessit? di un luogo unico. Il Cervaro della Sala ? stato uno dei primi vini bianchi italiani a svolgere fermentazione malolattica ed affinamento in barriques con la prima annata nel 1985.

In abbinamento alle storiche Linguine alla Nerano con zucchine, basilico e pepe nero.

A seguire lo Gnocco quasi alla Sorrentina?Gnocco farcito con ragout di agnello, pomodoro del piennolo crudo, olio di Itrana parmigiano e basilico.

Per poi passare alla Spigola in salsa Acetosella e Limone.

Assaggiamo ora Anfora 2019 – Il Roccolo di Mezzomerico

Nebbiolo dell?alto Piemonte che viene fermentato in Anfore di Terracotta, la stessa Argilla della Val Tiberina, usata gi? in epoca Romana per la conservazione del ?Vinum Amphorae?. Materiale che non cede aromi e permette di esaltare le caratteristiche delle uve grazie alla microssigenazione.

Accostato al filetto di vitella, adagiato sulla sua stessa demi glace, riduzione al limone e misticanza.

Spezziamo con un fresco pre dessert: Kiwi, Lime e Menta

L’immancabile Strevi DOC passito – Silvio Bragagnolo

Ottenuto dalle stesse uve utilizzate per il Moscato d?Asti. Sorprende per la longevit? e la ricchezza di profumi secondari derivanti dalla vinificazione poich? dopo le varie settimane di appassimento, le uve sono private manualmente degli acini botritizzati, pigiate, diraspate e macerate per l’estrazione delle sostanze aromatiche. Nel bicchiere si presenta color dell?oro, brillante, intenso; i suoi profumi e il suo gusto sono travolgenti e richiamano i fiori bianchi e la frutta gialla sciroppata. Al palato risulta denso, strutturato ti avvolge rapendoti in un intimo momento di meditazione.

E finalmente il dessert! L?isola dei limoni, Ile flottante con succo di limone

Scrigno di meringa, caff?, patata e Baileys.

Caff? Lavazza Kafa e piccola pasticceria:

• Sfogliatella
• Melanzana al cioccolato
• Cioccolatino Rosso Peperoncino
• Cioccolatino giallo Caff?
• Cioccolatino Viola Strega
• Cioccolatino arancio Arancia
• Cioccolatino Blu Finocchio
• Cioccolatino verde Rosmarino
• Cioccolatino verde chiaro Rucola

Ci salutiamo con un gin tonic base Gin Tanqueray nr. Ten.

La line up!

Prima di congedarci, immancabile una visita alla fornitissima cantina, un salto indietro nel tempo e nella cultura enologica.

La cantina ? in pietra vulcanica, un luogo senza tempo che custodisce la purezza di tante etichette pregiate.
Grappoli d?uva della terra campana, vini di coltivazioni lontane, un viaggio alla ricerca dell?eccellenza da intraprendere durante un percorso enogastronomico. Fragranze e aromi pronti a esaltare il sapore di un?emozione.

Grazie di cuore e…alla prossima!!

Cucina

Mellino si fa strada tra i grandi nomi della penisola, con una grande capacit? di ricerca ed esaltazione della materia prima, di presentazione contemporanea di piatti tradizionali, con l?utilizzo di tecniche e accostamenti raffinati che esaltano l?ingrediente in modo continuo e innovativo. La sua mano sapiente combina con amore, passione e eleganza, terra e mare, il verde e il blu, passato e presente. Il men? ? quindi un percorso di PURA esaltazione della materia prima, continua ricerca e voglia di sperimentare.?

Servizio e accoglienza

La famiglia Mellino del Ristorante Quattro Passi di Nerano vanta quarant?anni di esperienza nel far sentire l’ospite coccolato e viziato. Calore, umanit?, sorrisi invitanti e mai invadenti. Un?esperienza a tutto tondo che coinvolge l?ospite in tutti i suoi cinque sensi. I profumi della Penisola Sorrentina, il mare negli occhi, sapori che soddisfano il corpo ed emozionano lo spirito accompagnati in questo viaggio da uno staff incredibile.?

Conclusioni

A quattro passi dal mare, c’? la possibilit? di mangiare in un luogo indescrivibile, di grande calore. Tutta la bellezza di un ristorante sospeso sul mare tra i colori della baia di Nerano. Un?esperienza culinaria che amalgama i sapori del territorio, la sapiente lavorazione della materia prima e la continua ricerca della perfezione estetica.

Ristorante Quattropassi

Via Amerigo Vespucci, 13 NERANO 80061, Massa Lubrense (Na)
Tel: +39 081 808 12 71
Email: info@ristorantequattropassi.it
Sito web: www.ristorantequattropassi.it
Giorno di chiusura: Mercoled?

L'articolo Ristorante Quattro Passi – Chef Fabrizio Mellino – Marina del Cantone Massa Lubrense (NA) proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

VG AWARDS 2024 – Pranzo dell’anno!?

Ci troviamo nel tempio della maison Gucci, l’osteria di Firenze che incarna dai suoi fornelli, con estro e inclusivit?, i medesimi valori di alta creativit?. Una linea di ristoranti di cucina italiana contemporanea, declinata nel mondo in multipli e cangianti identit?. Una filosofia culinaria cavalcante con creativit?, eleganza, humour e sensualit?, che segue l?onda delle stagioni dove sempre trae l?ispirazione. Un’offerta che tiene un piede nella tradizione, l?altro nella sua incessante evoluzione strizzando l’occhio al futuro, spalancando porte e finestre al presente.

In cucina troviamo Karime Lopez, una chef che cucina come respira, con una sensibilit? a fior di pelle, tutti i sensi presenti all?appello. Porta sul tavolo sapori e saperi italiani con memorie d?altre geografie affettive, sempre con immensa gioiosit? e spiccata generosit?, libera ed elegante. Al suo fianco il co-executive chef Takahiko ?Taka? Kondo, nato a Tokyo, innamorato da sempre del cibo e della cucina Italiana, giunto qui dopo 17 anni di carriera all’Osteria Francescana di Massimo Bottura a Modena.

Insomma, da Gucci Osteria potrai gustare il giro d?Italia (e del mondo) in un menu: dal Messico al Giappone, fino ai classici rivisitati della Penisola. Lasciati trasportare dalle sapienti e divertenti mani di Taka e Karime, la promessa ? quella di ritrovare nei loro piatti una componente ludica che, in maniera congeniale, s?intreccia con quella culturale ed estetica. Buon viaggio!

Il men?…

Uno scatto con i carismatici chef!

APERITIVO!

Diamo il via a questa avventura con con calice di Champagne Brut Rare Millesim? 2013 – Piper Heidsieck?

Alla vista, si presenta con una tonalit? giallo citrino brillante animata da un perlage luminoso e persistente. Al naso, si percepiscono inizialmente note di iris e gelsomino, seguite da vetiver,?legni esotici, pepe bianco e?zenzero. Al palato il sorso ? setoso e morbido, con un gusto delizioso, esotico e superbo.

Arrivano gli amuse bouche, che giochiano sul concetto di colazione, di dolce che diventa salato:

• Pan brioche con burro alla bottarga e maionese alle vongole;
• Bign? ripieno di Pappa al pomodoro
• Cannolo di fagioli cannelini, ripieno di rag? di Chianina al coltello, spuma di ricotta affumicata e alle estremit? le guarnizioni del cannolo classico (pistacchio e arancia candita)
• Spalla Cotta di Paolo Parisi, mostarda di mele e giardiniera di finocchio
• Per concludere: espresso di fagioli neri e caff?.

Proseguiamo con un calice di Costa Toscana Bianco IGT “Gorgona” 2023 – Frescobaldi

Giallo paglierino carico con riflessi dorati. Al naso emerge subito la macchia mediterranea, con un susseguirsi di timo, rosmarino e salvia, su sfondo minerale. In bocca ritorna la mineralit? e la freschezza, supportante da buoni aromi di bocca che ricordano la frutta matura. Buona persistenza ed eleganza.

Ci abbiniamo Hiramasa Tropical Dreams. La Moqueca ? uno stufato di pesce brasiliano con verdure e latte di cocco. L’abbiamo trasformato in un brodo, servito con ricciola cruda marinata nel t? al gelsomino per dare freschezza, e insalata di fagiolini, cetriolo, prugna umeboshi di susina. La combinazione meravigliosa di piccantezza, freschezza, acidit? ricorda il Som Tam, l‘insalata di papaya che ha fatto innamorare gli chef durante un viaggio in Thailandia.

A seguire una divertente Tostada di mais viola con palamita dell?Adriatico, profumato e citrico. Il piatto pi? iconico di chef Karime, che celebra le sue origini messicane. Tostada croccante, palamita marinata, alla base escabeche fatta di mandorla, rafano, lime, jalapeno, lime.

Assaggiamo in abbinamento un calice di Champagne Pierre Brocard L’Egar?e Millesim?e 2014

Chardonnay e Pinot Noir in questa speciale Cuv?e realizzata in esclusiva per Gucci Osteria con sole 300 bottiglie numerate. Una tavolozza aromatica intensa dove il vino ? libero di esprimersi, facile da bere, dominato dal coriandolo, dalla vaniglia e dalla delicata legnosit? fornita da una tostatura media della botte di rovere.

Uno sguardo agli interni…

Si prosegue con Domaine Des Hauts Baigneux 2020 – Les Chenes

Una deliziosa versione di Chenin, capace di stupire per la precisione aromatica, fatta di agrumi, frutta, fiori e per la grande espressivit? minerale. Il sorso ? scandito da una vivacissima acidit? e una sapidit? coinvolgente, che slanciano il palato dopo l?attacco avvolgente e setoso.

Accompagnato Da Acapulco a Okinawa. Black Cod marinato con pomodoro secco, cotto alla brace, avvolto nello shiso e tempura di mais, servito con pico de gallo, alchechengi, ananas arrostita. Un omaggio alla spiaggia di Acapulco e a quella di Okinawa. Un incontro tra i profumi e i colori di Messico, Caraibi e Giappone.

Tipologia di pane/grissini e burro serviti

• Grissini tirati a mano con olio extra vergine di oliva

• La nostra versione di Pane Guttiau con olio extra vergine di oliva, alga nori e peperoncino

• Schiacciata tipica fiorentina, croccate all’esterno e soffice all’interno

• Pagnotta di grani antichi e polenta a lunga lievitazione con lievito madre

Adesso ? il momento dello Champagne Brut Rose Solera – Palmer?

Prodotto unico dal delicato colore rosa antico. Al naso sono riconoscibili sentori di frutti di bosco, fragola, vaniglia e cannella. Il sorso la componente tannica si bilancia con fragranze fruttate persistenti.

Rosa su rosa lo accompagniamo con la Torta In- Salata. L’insalata russa ? una ricetta diventata cos? popolare in Italia che in alcuni paesi scandinavi viene chiamata Insalata Italiana. Un piatto simbolo degli scambi culinari e multiculturalit? in cucina.?Cialda croccante di polenta farcita con meringa di rapa rossa e yuzu, caviale, manioca, broccolo e acciughe, servita con foglie di yuzu.

Passiamo al rosso con Inferno Valtellina Superiore 2020 – Marco Ferrari

Rosso rubino intenso. Al naso vira su note di fiori tra cui sono la rosa e le erbe aromatiche a farla da padrone con un frutto sempre presente, in bocca ha fibra e sapidit? in equilibrio col tannino, ben presente. Non ? un vino che gioca sulla forza sebbene ce ne sia ma sull’eleganza.

Che con il Pollo Ryoshi va a nozze. Alette di pollo collo nudo 160 giorni glassate ‘alla cacciatora italiana‘ e servite con grattugiata di tartufo Insieme al pollo ripieno con ?cacciatora giapponese? di riso, zucca, tartufo e funghi. Un filo rosso tra boschi giapponesi e italiani per la rivalutazione di una ricetta, quella del pollo alla cacciatora, un po’ bistrattata, specialmente nelle trattorie toscane, in cui cerchiamo di ridare pi? valore possibile alla succosit? della carne (cottura yakitori).

Non dire cassate. Un divertente omaggio alla cultura italiana della pasta, dalla Liguria alla Sicilia. Spaghetto mantecato freddo al pesto di pistacchio, crema di mandorla, ricotta affumicata al t? nero e cedro candito.

Basta vino! Arriva il Sidro di Mele (Carate Brianza) – Marco Colzano

Ed ? il momento del dessert…Banana Split. La banana split fa parte dei ricordi d’infanzia di Karime come dolce dei giorni di festa, il pi? desiderato e aspettato dai bambini. Qui ne usiamo tutti gli ingredienti creando un dessert gioioso e colorato: buccia di banana trasformata e diventata ricca come un dattero, gelato alla vaniglia, noci caramellate con sale, gel di cacao, salsa acida di fragola, coriandoli di banana e fragola come festose stelle filanti.

Hai ancora sete? Ecco qua un Bloody Mary al basilico…

Hai ancora fame? Spesso le persone pensano che uscendo da un ristorante fine dining abbiano fame e debbano andare a prendersi un kebab o una pizza. Beh, proprio per questo, ecco qua una pizza! Questa versione di pizza con salsa di pomodori e fragole e gelato di mozzarella. Una dolce, dolcissima illusione.?

Chiudiamo in bellezza con caff? e piccola pasticceria:

• Tortello arrostito sulla brace ripieno di crema di castagna, servito con castagna grattuggiata
• Meringa di cavolo nero
• Gelatine all’arancia rossa e alle clementine
• Pan de queso con mostarda di Guava e mela campanina
• Praline di cioccolato (gianduia igp del Piemonte, tartufato e pistacchio salato)

Che dire…SUPERLATIVO! VG AWARDS 2024 – Pranzo dell’anno!? Grazie di cuore e…alla prossima!

Cucina

Gucci Osteria di Firenze fa parte di una linea di ristoranti di cucina italiana contemporanea, declinata nel mondo in multipli e cangianti identit?. Da Mexico City, in viaggio per il mondo, e oggi e per sempre a Firenze, Karime Lopez cucina l?Italia attraverso il suo vissuto ricco di viaggi, di scoperte e di folgoranti intuizioni. Insieme a lei il co-executive chef Takahiko ?Taka? Kondo. Insieme fanno?vibrare ad ogni stagione un universo culinario a loro immagine e somiglianza, intrecciando in libert? colori?e?sapori di qui e d?altrove spolverati con irriverenti ma?tanto?poetiche sorprese.

Servizio ed accoglienza

L’esperienza inizia dalla struttura in s?, che si presenta con uno spirito contemporaneo nel cuore di uno spazio storico. La cura dei dettagli della mise, degli interni, delle vibe che emana questo locale, fino al servizio ? di una elegante e raffinata convivialit?. Il ristorante si suddivide in pi? sale, la sala degli specchi ? una sala da pranzo privata pu? ospitare fino a 10 persone in uno spazio intimo con pareti rivestite in legno, adornate con specchi dorati antichi. Al secondo piano, invece, troviamo due sale con vista su Piazza della Signoria, disponibili per incontri di lavoro, cocktail e ricevimenti privati.

Conclusioni

In questo locale moderno e dinamico, la Firenze cosmopolita si fonde con le influenze internazionali grazie alla visione di Massimo Bottura. La cucina di Karime Lopez e Takahiko Kondo va oltre i confini dell?Italia, intrecciando tradizioni messicane, giapponesi e ricordi di viaggio in un’esperienza unica. I men? degustazione?offrono un racconto gastronomico tutto da scoprire, perfettamente calibrato nella sua bellezza complessiva. L’esperienza non finisce qua, non dimenticate di visitare il raffinato Gucci Garden, vero gioiello culturale.

VG AWARDS 2024 – Pranzo dell’anno!?

Gucci Osteria

L'articolo Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura – Chef Karime Lopez e Takahiko Kondo – Firenze (FI) proviene da ViaggiatoreGourmet alias AltissimoCeto!.

They answered simply, ?Barbaresco? Oh, it just died.?

Huh? Did I hear that right? One of my favorite wines in the world, one of the greatest examples of Nebbiolo the world has ever known, has left us?

Ah, I get it. A guy dumps his aging wife, the mother of his children, and chases after a younger, perkier trophy. Happens all the time.

So, I ask myself, what happened to Barbaresco? What precipitated its fall from grace in the world that surrounds me? Is it a local thing? Is it an American thing? Is there a problem? Did something happen that I didn?t hear about? My Barbaresco?

How is it that the world I now inhabit doesn?t see that? Does one need to go to Barbaresco to see, to feel, to taste that? What happened?

I?m gobsmacked over this development. I peer into my wine closet and see Barolo and Barbaresco in there. Barolo about 3 to 1 over Barbaresco. OK, a bigger area, more communes. Sounds about right. A few years ago, one would have found more Barbaresco in there than Barolo. But we?ve drank a few and let a few go to collectors, knowing that time isn?t on my side with regards to ever getting to all of the wines in that closet in my lifetime. But, still, no complete abandonment. Not in my neighborhood.

Yes, there are other predicting regions that are beating their drums louder. Etna, Montalcino, Abruzzo. Even Montecucco! But how on earth has one of the greatest appellations for Nebbiolo gotten lost in the fog of wine?

Well, there is Gaja. But Gaja is a universe unto itself. And thankfully there is Produttori del Barbaresco. And Bruno Giacosa, and, and, and?

I think of our cousins in France, in Burgundy. They went through this some years ago, and they survived it. And while Barbaresco may not be someone?s idea of an Italian Chambertin, it falls into the pantheon of greatness in the universe of Nebbiolo. This isn?t right. Something must be done. 

? I got the poison, I got the remedy ?

Not to be outdone, the Italian-American amalgam, a quasi-conspiratorial plot against authentic and traditional food and wine, has catapulted onto the scene, conjuring up wine and food combinations. This either signals the beginning of the end of days, or at the very least, presages a seismic shift from rational common sense thinking to the current craze for a pseudo-realism based on one?s one whims and fancies. Expressed herewith are a troika of such abominations that have recently been spotted in the wild, and which could foreshadow Italian wine and food culture wriggling into Mainstream American culture. Or it might simply mean the end is near. Let?s jump in.

Next in the queue ? A can of Heinz Spaghetti Carbonara pasta in a creamy sauce with pancetta, paired with a bottle of  ?Orange? vino bianco, a skin-fermented blend of Malvasia (30%) and Trebbiano (70%). With a slight orange tint, this wine hits the palate with a silky texture and exotic tropical fruit flavors. Now if that doesn?t scream Carbonara, I don?t know what does. And they are both ?natural.?

[Not an A.I. image]

And for those wishing to channel their inner Giada De Laurentiis, of course you can add her secret ingredient for a fabulous Carbonara ? pumpkin puree. After all, if Starbuck's can bring out their pumpkin latte in the sweltering heat of August, why can't we fly our Carbonara freak flag? And yes, the ?Orange? vino bianco will work with both peas and pumpkin. Win! Win!!

For our purposes, however, we will peer into the abyss of heterodoxy and pair the dish with a a massive red from an ancient land - Lazio - largely Cabernet-based, with a touch of Petit Verdot and Primitivo. Oh, Moses smell the roses!

If you want more of my hot take on if you see kay, follow the link. I think I?ve said enough.

[p.s. ? the company that imports and sell this wine, Vintage Wine Estates, recently declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy. ?Tis a shame and a friggin? pity.]

And this is where we?re at ? in 2024 America. As James Brown says, ?Whoa, I feel good!?

 

?What is wine?? asks an asteroid, as it careens past me at 40,000 miles per hour. As if said asteroid even had time to consider a deeper dive, such as ?What is Italian wine??

?No matter,? I reply, although I would imagine the asteroid did not hear me, as it was long out of shouting range. And so, I found myself alone, in a cold sector of the Milky Way, pondering how I got there and where in Heaven?s name I was going.

?Where are you going with this, Cowboy?? my imaginary friend asks. Indeed, where. Well, we did recently have a total eclipse coming by our way. And there are always the Perseid meteor showers this time of year. And if celestial occurrences aren?t your thing, we?ve got a bevy of volcanoes going off right now on Spaceship Earth. Lots going on.

[Going macro now] It seems we all have an idea of what Italy, and by extension, Italian wine is. To some it?s an everyday drink, something to go with their Penne alla Vodka or Cotoletta alla Milanese. To others, it?s a trophy, like a Ferrari Berlinetta f12 or a Maria Grazia Cucinotta. You know, Sassicaia, Masseto, Ornellaia. Just like places.

To some, the cities are where it?s at. Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice. To others, the secluded countryside - Val d'Arno di Sopra, Positano, Como.

When I fell to earth, many years ago, I landed in California. It was a wonderful place, a paradise. Years later, I moved to Texas. It was, and remains, a challenge. In between, I traveled to Italy as much as I could. Too much. Now, I know Italy better than America, at least from the point of view of getting around the place and experiencing life there. But I might as well have traveled to the other side of the galaxy, our Milky Way, for what I think I know about any of these places. California. Texas. Italy.

That?s one of the fabulous things about living long enough. You really do learn that you?ve only just scratched the surface of knowledge. Of anything.

Nor does knowledge, or expertise, for that matter. In the past three months of digging into Italian wine, for a project I was on, I realized, again, that Italy and Italian wine is moving forward rapidly. If you were an expert in 2014, now you might be a novice. That?s nothing to shy away from, for the opportunity to keep learning is high.

A few nights ago, I went outside and looked up at the meteor showers which show up in the skies this time of year. And I thought, ?Wow, this is like Italian wine ? new impressions, explosions, sensations keep showing up over our heads.? And it is up to those of us with an open mind to see that not as daunting but as prompting. We will never, any of us, conquer Italian wine. It isn?t there for us in that way, any more than the Milky Way over our heads is there for the taking. What both of them are there, for us, is to enjoy, to learn and to bask in their light and energy ? which ultimately is as life-affirming as it gets.

I?m simplifying matters a bit, but if you are living in America right now, there is an energy, a fire that has been lit, and we?re not talking about an arsonist in the Sierra Nevada, or Burning Man, which is imminent. No, this is a larger upheaval. And while it might be a communally driven one, I?ve also been thinking about our individual climbs.

This was precipitated by the death of a long-time friend who battled DLB for the past five years. My friend was a world traveler, an art lover, a wine and food enthusiast and a love-magnet for beautiful, accomplished and fiercely independent women. Oh, and he loved to climb mountains.

I won?t mention his name here, for his influence and his inspiration is really what this piece is about. No, it?s not about his legacy. Anyone who knows me well enough knows I don?t buy into the legacy conceit. Do your stuff while you are alive, I say, and when you are no longer here, so what? Does it matter that anyone remembers you? And if so, for how long? Who remembers their great-great grandparents? legacy, unless your name is Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln or Roosevelt? And even then, who cares? No, let?s talk about climbing your mountain.

It might be to finally taste all the red and white wines from the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. That would surely be a nice ascent. Or it might be to taste a complete vertical of Sassicaia or Solaia. That could be a fun hike. Or it might be to finally understand what wine really means to you in your lifetime.

I recently had an epiphany about wine. It was a Lugana, which is my current summer white wine. It was brutally hot outside, and I?d been putzing around in the garden. I showered and headed out to the store to buy fixings for dinner. When I got home, I was once again drenched in sweat. Triple digit time in Texas. So, I got under a fan with a wet towel and cooled down. Once I got to a point where I wasn?t hyperventilating, I set about making dinner. I prepped everything and got it ready and voil?, I had a free moment. In the fridge was a bottle of Lugana, so I poured a glass. And then I went into the freezer and grabbed a piece of ice. I know what you?re thinking.

Sitting down, again under a fan, I took a sip. The wine was cool, refreshing, slightly citric. It was like drinking a Verdicchio that had just had its alkaline batteries replaced with lithium ones (if that even means anything to anyone else other than myself). 

And the ice? It was as if that small piece made all the difference in the world. What? That?s blasphemy! 

No, that was a carabiner ? a coupling link. It caused a connection between the wine and me to be more fully realized. The dilution of the wine was minimal, while the addition of coolness made so much of a difference. It was uncanny, and totally unplanned. But it made me sit up and take notice.

Now, that was a cardinal rule of wine that I broke. And because of it, I got more from the experience than purists would probably give credence to.

It wasn?t a mountain, but it was an encounter with synergy that came totally out of the blue.

How many times do we have pre-conceived notions of what it is we can and should expect from a wine experience? So often, in these times, folks are so obsessed with numbers ? How well did it score? How many points did Parker or Suckling give it? How many wines in the vertical? How far back in time does it go? How many people have had this experience? And so on, to the point that sometimes a simple occurrence can be as transcendent as those highly sought after once-in-a-lifetime ones. It may not be Everest, but the view from Mt. Tamalpais is pretty damn inspiring too.

That was something I learned from my dearly departed friend. Before he died, he invited me over to his house. ?I have some things for you.? When I got there, several boxes of wine were sitting on his counter. ?I want you to have them. I can no longer drink wine, the medications will not let me.? Of course, I took the wines, if only to get them out of his way. But over time I have been popping corks and thinking about my friend and all his adventures while he was on Earth. He saw places I will never see. He climbed peaks I will never climb. He lived and loved, and laughed and cried, and was happy and sad, and confused and yes, enlightened while he was here in his life. How many of us can say we?ve summited all the mountains we have set out to climb?

Perch? scrivere l'ennesimo wall of text quando c'? gi? chi se la sbriga meglio, e pure velocemente? Allora tanto vale linkare Ernesto Gentili, che dice tutto quel che va detto sulla nuova puntata di Report dedicata, con modi sommari, alla nostra bevanda del cuore. Giusto una citazione:

"Dopo aver sentito definire WineandSiena come uno degli eventi pi? importanti del panorama nazionale e aver scoperto, bont? loro, che ci sono perfino due produttori (uno scovato in Abruzzo e uno in Veneto) dall?animo puro, qualche dubbio che ci stiano prendendo in giro pu? anche sorgere".

A Fornovo pioveva (ma che notizia ?, del resto)

Fatto sta che ho improvvisato qualcosa per evitare il fastidio. Questa edizione di Fornovo era per me pi? libertaria del solito, non avevo mappe o desideri. Cos? in mezzo ai molti produttori notissimi, con folle di assaggiatori al tavolo, ho scelto sempre i tavoli dove il produttore meno noto, o proprio sconosciuto, era da solo, mezzo triste mezzo assonnato. Ecco, ho fatto una raffica di assaggi cos?. E sono stati quasi tutti assaggi molto interessanti, al punto che pure essendo partito per Fornovo pensando "non mi serve nulla" adesso ho tre o quattro nomi che considero con favore. Forse questa formula destrutturata si rivela ideale, ma comunque Fornovo non ha deluso nemmeno quest'anno.

Sconosciuti a me, sconosciuti al mondo come lo frequento, il mondo digitale, internet, la conoscenza condivisa. Che nel frattempo ? diventata cosa? Pure quella vittima di una forma di enshittification, ovvero: alcune cose cambiano, ma inevitabilmente in peggio. Potrei fare qualcosa in proposito per rimediare, uno di quei post riassuntivi di nomi, aziende, assaggi, schede, punteggi. Ma ci sono due problemi: ho detto che ho scelto in via preventiva produttori depressi e abbandonati, ora che figura ci faccio ad elencarli? Ma soprattutto: siccome non possiamo non dirci perulliani, cio? seguaci della filosofia di tanto autore, che smonta senza scampo chi fa il mestiere del redattore di schede (io, tra l'altro!), come si fa?

Ci? ? fastidioso, no? E ovviamente m?infastidisco anche di me che ho provato fastidio.

Quando arriva domenica metto da parte qualche assaggio della festa, e riservo a quel giorno bevute che immagino pi? divertenti. Anche se come sempre quando apro una bottiglia di vino non so mai davvero cosa mi aspetta, come la scatola di cioccolatini di Forrest Gump. C'? un'idea di massima, spesso delle aspettative, che finiscono sempre per intralciare l'assaggio, o ti deludono o resti sorpreso, ma appunto non sai mai.

Ecco il Rosso di Montalcino 2022 di Tiezzi: produttore molto stimato per il lungo cursus honorum, per aver fatto cose grandiose col sangiovese a Montalcino su due piccoli vigneti, il Poggio Cerrino e Vigna Soccorso. Dunque mi aspettavo la sangiovesitudine e la montalcinit? (non saprei come dire meglio) in fondo a quel bicchiere. Aspettative molto soddisfatte: il Rosso subito ha un naso truculento di sangue e macelleria, poi si quieta piano verso il mentolato (un naso di erba aromatica, verde, direi) e il frutto. Bocca super salda, tannino davvero squillante, sorso dritto e verticale, come a dire di grande soddisfazione, nel complesso un vino che mi piace perch? non rinuncia al carattere ruvido e nello stesso tempo ? appagante, sul finale risulta confortevole a dispetto delle premesse e del quadro generale. Ma come ci riesce? Beh, ci riesce. Il genere di assaggio che vorrei rifare il giorno dopo.

E una retro etichetta non ce la vuoi mettere?

Nel relax del fine pranzo risento il Rum Millionario 15 Reserva Especial, solera, che viene dal Per?. Posso ripetere quel che ho detto l? per l?: non me lo ricordavo cos? buono. Assaggio che supera le aspettative quindi, perch? io guardo spesso al Rum (quello nello stile dolcione, perlomeno) come a una bevuta un po' appesantita dalla zuccherosit?, tant'? che il Rum migliore ? quello che riesce a maneggiare la botta mielosa alternandola ad altro - ma a cosa? Qui c'era in effetti un alcol pulito, l'invecchiamento col metodo solera lo ha asciugato, la bocca era sollecitata ma non stuccata di dolcezza lasciva. Caspita, mi dico da solo, bravo Millionario, bel lavoro. Ancora adesso non so come mai non lo ricordassi cos? bene, serviva proprio il ripasso della lezione.

Ora mi devo studiare qualcosa di nuovo per la prossima domenica, vediamo che mi invento.

Qualche considerazione dopo l'assaggio del nuovo Champagne Brut Tradition di Voirin-Jumel. Nuovo in quanto c'? stato un piccolo cambiamento nelle percentuali delle uve dell'assemblaggio, ora predomina il pinot nero col 61%, il restante ? chardonnay. Fino a un paio d'anni fa era cinquanta-e-cinquanta. Essendo arrivato fresco fresco, potevo esimermi dall'assaggiare subito, curioso come sono? Non potevo. 

Quindi ecco: il pinot nero prevale quanto basta, senza strafare, cio? non esagera in potenza ma fa il suo bel lavoro, conferisce una certa fierezza. Lo chardonnay segue a ruota, in secondo piano ma certo non dimesso, col suo corredo di crema pasticcera, insomma un po' di delicatesse che serve a completare il quadro. La retro etichetta ? del genere parecchio esplicativo, ci tiene a dire tra l'altro che la cuv?e in questione ? essenzialmente figlia della vendemmia 2020, e fa bene siccome ? una bellissima annata, col tradizionale saldo di vini di riserva.

Questo ? il genere di Champagne-base che praticamente ogni maison ha nel suo listino, in un certo senso ? il vino che rappresenta lo stile e le capacit? appunto basiche di chi produce. Per me i brut tradition (spesso si chiamano tutti cos?) sono assai significativi, perch? definiscono la champagnitudine (esiste 'sta parola? Boh) in maniera essenziale: eccolo qui, lo Champagne. Un po' come quando metti alla prova lo chef chiedendogli di fare la pasta al burro: vediamo un po' quanto sei bravo. E succede che quello ti stupisce tirando fuori un gran piatto, fatto di semplici materie prime di alto livello, e classe nell'esecuzione.

La retro in tutta la sua dettagliata spiegazione

Ma questo brut tradition, si diceva: bello e godevole, profuma di agrume e pan brioche, in bocca ha la vena salata tipica del genere, con quel dosaggio zuccherino che non ? n? poco n? tanto, ma ? in grado di sedurre le masse. Nuovamente, questa ? la missione delle cuv?e basiche, essere facili senza tradire la verve della tipologia. E farsi bere con volutt?. Il tradition di Voirin non mi delude nemmeno stavolta col piccolo cambiamento nel dosaggio. Ce ne sono tanti come lui, ma questo ? il mio. In quanto scelto da me.

Oggi ho mandato un mail ad un vigneron che mi fornisce cose buone. L'indirizzo mail solito ha un autorisponditore, ed ecco la risposta:

Tradotto liberamente: ciao ma ho avuto una bimba, la seconda (la famiglia cresce!) quindi fino ad agosto ho il mio da fare, parlane con mia sorella o col cantiniere (seguono email relativi). 

Ecco, quando si parla, molto, di differenza tra produzione artigianale e produzione industriale, io ci mettere pure questo, come distinguo: il vignaiolo (vignaiola, in questo caso) artigianale ? un umano, al quale capitano felicemente cose umane, quindi regolati di conseguenza, aspetta un attimo, parlane con chi mi sostituisce perch? adesso non posso. Questo, spero sia chiaro, ? alquanto meraviglioso, ? l'essenza dell'avere a che fare con umani, e non con misteriose SpA, o gente che in vigna ci va per sport, se ci va. E again spero sia chiaro, questa enoteca sceglie pervicacemente fornitori della prima specie.

Pantelleria ? una terra estrema e difficile, le piante della vite sono alberelli infossati a proteggersi dal vento, e sono un bel disagio da vendemmiare, l? in basso. Questa terra dove l'uomo ha dovuto creare residenze, i dammusi, fatti di mura spessissime a proteggersi dal caldo che diciamo africano per amore dell'iperbole ma qui lo ? davvero, siccome siamo davanti all'Africa, questa terra durissima produce uno dei vini pi? dolci, flessuosi, accoglienti, confortevoli e deliziosi del globo. 

Il Passito di Pantelleria sembra la reazione opposta al suo contesto, quasi a contraddire le premesse. Qui sostanzialmente c'? un'unica uva, il moscato di Alessandria o moscatellone o zibibbo, clone diverso dal piemontese moscato bianco di Canelli. Vinificato come vino secco, senza alcun residuo zuccherino, ha l'aromaticit? gradevole del vitigno con un carattere spiccato e, questo s?, direi territoriale, indomito. Nella versione passita tocca il suo vertice, come dicevo pare un negativo fotografico di quella terra.

La situazione produttiva enologica a Pantelleria non ? dissimile da quella del resto del mondo: esiste un artigianato encomiabile che propone passiti da tuffo al cuore, struggenti e sensazionali. Esiste anche qualche tipo di industria che fa numeri ed ? certamente pi? pittoresca e turistica, diciamo. Nelle loro cantine si trovano pi? facilmente etichette disponibili e milanesi imbruttiti. I vini della prima categoria sono eternamente introvabili, e pure la visita in cantina ? meno agevole ("venite pure ma vino non ce n'?"). Lascio al mio lettore indovinare quello che piace a me. A questo proposito, ecco un paio di assaggi.

Salvatore Murana
Produttore storico, amato, stimato, rispettato. Vini inappuntabili e densi non solo nella struttura della dolcezza, ma anche densi di suggestioni e richiami. Murana ha diverse versioni del suo passito, Martingana imperativo e solenne, Mueggen una pietra miliare, Turb? apparentemente pi? delicato. Gad? ? la versione secca della stessa uva, salino e ampio. Il "Creato" ? raro e prezioso, ora si beve il 1983 (non ? un refuso) perch? affina per decenni, letteralmente. Ho provato a chiedere il suo prezzo, e alla risposta ("costa come un biglietto aereo per Pantelleria") non ho ritenuto di fare altre domande. Certo, che meraviglioso privilegio averlo nel bicchiere, con quel colore brunito e il finale interminabile.

La retro etichetta del Creato racconta gi? molto.

Mueggen ha un equilibrio perfetto tra frutta essiccata e note marine.

Salvatore Ferrandes
Ci vuole un po' di fortuna, nel caso di Ferrandes: per trovarlo, anche geograficamente intendo, e trovarlo disponibile perch? gli impegni che ha sono numerosi, il lavoro in vigna per esempio. E comunque ? un altro produttore che, dati i numeri, ha scarsissimo vino disponibile - abbiamo prenotato qualcosa, abbiamo incrociato le dita, ora speriamo. Il suo passito ha una tensione dolce struggente, tiene impegnato l'assaggiatore per mezz'ore col naso infilato nel bicchiere perch? ogni olfazione ? un nuovo riconoscimento, una nuance inedita. In bocca pressoch? infinito. 

La strada per arrivare da Ferrandes ? una cosa cos?.

Assaggio di grande intensit?, definitivamente.

La (micro) cantina di Ferrandes, solo acciaio, niente legno.

La denominazione del dolcetto ? vasta e varia: Ovada, Alba, Dogliani, Acqui, Asti, e altre che dimentico perch? sono troppissime. Io sono un fan di Ovada, per molteplici motivi che hanno a che fare col chilometro zero (praticamente Ovada ? entroterra di Genova) e col fatto che l? la mia famiglia aveva vigneti, lo scorso millennio, e io facevo vendemmie e lavori connessi. Senza dire che molti Dolcetto di Ovada sono buoni come il pane - e a questo proposito ultimamente da un ovadese fatto assaggi molto interessanti, ma questo ? un altro discorso, e un altro post.

Il Dolcetto d'Alba di Principiano, dicevo. Si conosce bene, nel nostro giro, la triste storia del dolcetto albese: volentieri espiantato per far posto al nebbiolo che ? pi? figo e, ops, remunerativo, sta diventando raro (quello buono). Anche per questo ho preso al volo l'occasione di aggiungere il dolcetto agli altri rossi del produttore. E adesso scusate, mi faccio i complimenti da solo, ho fatto proprio bene: che meraviglia nel bicchiere. Floreale di violetta come da accademia dell'assaggio, frutti neri fitti, bocca succosissima e viva, tannini e un po' di agrume rosso su quel finale cos? langarolo, ruvido con simpatia. Un po' non te lo aspetti, ma vedi? Bisogna aspettarsi l'inaspettato. 

A voler dare punteggi io direi 87/100, in enoteca circa 11 euro, roba da prenderne a casse, ecco.

Probabilmente sapete gi? cosa sia Chat GPT, la miglior versione di intelligenza artificiale in grado di elaborare testi e semplicemente chattare sulla qualsiasi. Oggi ci siamo intrattenuti in una simpatica conversazione, e il risultato, direi, non ? niente male.

"Il vino naturale ? un tipo di vino che viene prodotto senza l'utilizzo di additivi artificiali o conservanti e con il minimo intervento possibile durante il processo di produzione. La fermentazione avviene generalmente con lieviti presenti naturalmente sull'uva, senza l'aggiunta di lieviti selezionati in laboratorio. Inoltre, tali vini spesso non vengono filtrati o chiarificati prima dell'imbottigliamento".

Con Chat GPT si accede facilmente con l'account Google, per chi non ha voglia di ulteriori login. E con il robot uso modi educati, perch? quando Skynet prender? il potere si ricorder? che sono una personcina a modo, e non mi sterminer?.

If you have dental issues or complications, it is necessary that you find a good dentist who will take care of your needs. However, the issue is, there are many dentists the market today and settling for the best may be tricky. For this reason, you need to take time and find the?best dentist in Miami who will offer the type of services you require. Dentists have various types of services they offer. There are those who have specialized in a particular field while some are general dentists who deal with almost all dental issues. If you are looking for a dentist, here are quick factors that you can consider looking at so that you get the best dentist.

Check on Experience

First, when searching for a dentist to offer dental services to you, we recommend that you try checking out the experience of your prospective dentist. This is a crucial aspect to check on because the longer the experience, the more quality services the dentist will offer. A dentist who has been offering dental services for years will be well placed to handle your dental needs than one who has just started practicing. This is applicable because past experiences will help the dentist be in a position to handle and manage any dental complications.

Check on Specialization

Secondly, when you want to settle on the best dentist, it is essential that you first understand the kind of dental service you need. This will help you know the kind of dentist you need. Dentists have various services that they offer. Some offer specialized dental services, and that means you need to know exactly what you are seeking for.

Check on Training

With the increased need for dental services, some individuals will want to take advantage of that and start offering dental services but they are not qualified. Therefore, to avoid falling prey for such fake dentists, it?s essential that when searching for a dentist, you should check to know if the dentist is trained. The dentist should declare his or her qualifications and show you the documents which give evidence for that. This way, you will get dental services from dentists who have undergone proper training in dental health.

Consider the Reputation

When searching for a good dentist, it is also advisable that you consider knowing the reputation of your prospective dentist. You need to know how many successful cases of dental procedures the dentist has offered. Similarly, you need to know what people feel about the services that the dentist offers. This way, you will understand if the dentist will be suitable to offer dental services that you may need.…

Addiction to the drug can ruin your life. It reaches a point where you want to get rid of the addiction, but you cant that easily. If you are at this juncture, you should visit a respected and reliable drug rehab NJ. An excellent drug rehab center will help you to stay away from drug or alcohol addiction. The hints as discussed below will help you to decide the best drug rehab NJ for your recovery.

Licensing

Perhaps, this is the first issue that you should reconsider before determining a drug rehabilitation center. Facilities that don’t have valid licenses might not help you to recover fully. Lack of a valid license means that the facility that you are visiting is not recognized by the authorities and might be operating against the law. Stay away from rehabs without licenses as they will only rob you of your hard earned money.
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Treatment Procedures

The treatment protocols used at a facility might raise or reduce your chances of recovery. For instance, you should find out whether your chosen facility provides detox together with other therapies and counseling. When you come across a drug rehab?that offers such treatment, then you will be on the right path to quick recovery. High-end facilities also offer yoga when they think its necessary.

Highly Qualified Staff

The level of experience of the employees working at the rehab center that you choose might impact negatively or positively on your recovery. If you decide to go for an inpatient facility make sure that that the staff are available around the clock. You should also check whether the staff are registered by the relevant authorities to confirm that they have the necessary experience.

High Patient Staff Ration

If you get admitted to a rehab center with few staffs, then you might not get the attention that you want. Rehab centers that have more doctors and nurses will give you the care that you need for quick recovery.

Aftercare Treatment

Once you are done with your rehabilitation program, it’s essential that you are closely monitored to reduce your odds of succumbing to drug abuse again. The aftercare you require varies depending on your requirements as well as the degree of addiction. However, it’s suggested that you see your doctor weekly or once in a fortnight after leaving the rehab center to chat about your progress and the difficulties that you might be encountering.

Pricing and Insurance

Most people don’t know that rehabilitation therapies can cost you a fortune. For this cause, you should find out how much the treatment will cost in advance to avoid nasty surprises. In most cases, expensive rehabilitation centers offer the best care. If you have a valid medical insurance policy, you should discover whether your chosen facility accepts it and how much it can cover.

If you are having an uphill task trying to get away from drugs, it’s better to get treatment sooner than later. You will come across a number of drug rehab NJ centers to pick from online and to make a sound decision keep the hints as explained above in mind.…

Healthy eating is essential for your general well-being. The type of food you eat plays a critical role in determining the health status of your body. Most health or diet experts advice one to take in a balanced diet to keep their bodies in the perfect shape. The Dad Quarters have some of the best reviews and health advice that can help keep you in good shape. Your food should be made up of proteins, vitamin, carbs, and irons.

There are a number of food deficiency illnesses you can contract if you fail to consume a balanced diet. The most common ones include malnutrition, rickets, and scurvy. Most of these conditions are usually common among kids. Failure to take in a balanced diet can also weaken your body?s defense system.

Your body will not be able to fight certain conditions, and this will leave you weak or falling sick most of the time. Proteins play an essential role in the growth and development of your body. They do help increase muscle mass. Carbohydrates help provide your body with energy to carry out some activities. They act as fuel to your body.

Vitamins boost your immune system and improve your body functions. You can find all these nutrients in different foods. One thing you can do to make sure you consume a balanced diet is come up with your own menu that has all types of meals. This might be a difficult task for many. Here is how you can come up with a weekly meal plan that is made up of a balanced diet.

Look for Recipes

The first thing you should do when coming up with your home menu is to look for recipes. Look for recipes used in making different types of meals. Make sure the different types of meals make up a balanced diet. Getting different recipes will help make your job more comfortable when it comes to creating a weekly meal plan.

Sort your Recipes

The next thing you should do is sort out the different recipes according to the nutrients contained in them. One that is used for cooking a protein-rich meal should be separated from one that is used to prepare a meal with any other type of nutrient. Make sure that each day you have a meal rich in a specific type of nutrient.

Stock your Kitchen

You can now stock your kitchen with the different types of foods so that you can have easy access to them. Failing to do so may see you change your meal plan because you are not able to reach the type of meal for that particular day. Do not overstock because some of them may go bad quickly. Cook the perishables first.…

This is one of the hair supplement used in preventing hair loss. Hair loss is common in both men and women. This condition is associated with family history, hormonal changes, and certain medical conditions. It is also caused by scalp infections such ringworms. Drugs uses in treating cancer, arthritis, heart problems and blood pressure are the ones that cause hair loss. The other causes of this issue include emotional shock, excessive weight loss, a high fever, and radiation therapy. Provillus is purely natural and it can be used by both women and men. Apart from preventing hair loss, this product is effective in promoting regret of the lost hair. Again, it has complex ingredients that prevent hair loss.

Ingredients of Provillus

It contains natural ingredients such as pumpkin seeds, zinc, propylene glycol, nettle root, water biotin, and vitamin B6. These components are beneficial for hair growth and for the hair follicles? health. Again, they are well combined to bring the desired results. Provillus works by providing vital elements and necessary?nutrients needed by the hair.

Vitamin 6 is one of the essential vitamins for maintaining a healthy hair. Its natural character is helpful for reducing side effects and allergic reactions. It should be used regularly to restore weak hair, prevent hair loss and make hair thicker. Individuals who take this supplement regularly can enjoy their hair coverage after three months. You can get many customers testimonials in the internet.

Advantages of Provillus

• It is effective in promoting hair growth in bald spots and other hair thinning areas
• Its active ingredients have potent hair regrowth properties
• It shows positive results after a few months or weeks
• It has become very popular due to its many positive reviews and effectiveness.
• It contains essential vitamins, and minerals making it easy for use.

Negative Effects of Provillus

• You will be required to use this product continuously for you to enjoy its benefits
• It can cause some side effects when used in higher amounts than indicated. It can lead to a feeling of?light-headedness or dizziness, and swelling of tongue and lips. Individuals who experience these side effects are advised to consult a doctor.

How is Provillus Used?

You should take one capsule every day. It should be taken with food such as breakfast. It is very hard to get it for the local drugstores. It can be purchased from its official website.…

Age of the Pet

Age is an important factor to consider when choosing your pet’s food. Your pet needs to be fed appropriate food for his or her age. This is important as a certain amount of calories and proteins are needed for your pet to grow to adulthood properly. By providing your pet with his important current life stage diet, you will be meeting his growth requirements.

There are different types of pet food ranging from those for young pets, adult, and senior pet. If it?s your first time buying packaged food, read the labels to know what components a certain pet food has.

Consider the Breed Size

Choose the pet food based on the size of your pet’s breed. Young pets will need to consume well-balanced nutrients for immune functions, healthy skin, bone development, and growth. Most pet foods are usually categorized by specific breed factors which only include breed size since there is no other major difference between breeds.

Small breed pets have fast metabolism rates compared to medium and large breeds. That is why small pet breeds need more fatty nutrients than others.

Check for Food Allergies

Be extremely careful while choosing the food for a pet with thin coat quality, sensitive skin or redness of the skin. Food allergies are most common in dogs so if your pet is a dog lookout for allergy signs like scratching.

Don’t confuse food intolerance with food allergy; this is because lactose intolerance and poor digestion are as a result of food allergy.

Feeding your dog sources of carbohydrates and protein for 3 months triggers a strong immune response that helps alleviate allergic reactions.

Dietary Supplement

If you are feeding your pet a complete commercial balanced diet, you might not require adding a nutritional supplement like vitamins. However, with old pets, of a particular breed or with a certain disease condition may need a dietary supplementation. Check with your veterinarian whether supplementing your pet with fish oils, additional anti-oxidants or joins supplement could improve your pet’s health.

Reproductive Status of a Pet

A pet that is neutered or spayed has minimal maintenance energy requirements. It is, therefore, recommend to reduce their calories intake by approximately 25-30 percent from the usual recommendations.

If a bag of your dry pet food recommendations is feeding approximately one cup daily, you should only feed 2/3 to 3/4 of the same cup daily. Always consult the veterinarian while changing the diet and before starting a pet on any weight loss program.

Is the Food Easy to Digest?

Just like humans proper digestion is very important and affects the pets well being too. If essential nutrients in the dog food are not digestible, then look for another food. You can determine whether you have the right food by checking how well your pet defecates.it will tell you whether what is in the food bonds well with the pet.

Expiration Date

Packaging and manufacturing of the pet food products is also an important factor that you must consider. Pet food has certain health limitation that comes with food use and quality. This involves both packaging and the pet food. Go for pet food that has packaging date labeled.

Food with short shelf life should be consumed faster than those with a longer shelf life. This ensures …

Going for massage therapy is the best way to relax. If you have been working very hard, then you need to look for a way to relieve the stress and tension. When going for massage therapy, it is important to look for a skilled and experienced therapist.

A Massage therapist in Glasgow will help you in achieving the full benefits of the therapy. When choosing a massage spa, make sure that you look for factors like hygiene and also the massage methods that they use. Here are signs that you need to go to massage therapy:

You are tired

Massage therapy is very important in helping you relieve fatigue. Working six days a week can be very tiring. You need to take one day to work and go for a massage. The therapy will help you in relieving fatigue.

When we work in many ways, our body builds up tension in various parts of the body like the neck, shoulders, back and also limps. It is important to look for a way to get rid of this tension so that you can relieve fatigue. When you relieve fatigue through massage, you will increase productivity at work.

You are in pain

If you are dealing with pain from an injury or ailment, then massage therapy will help you. Going to therapy will help you in healing the affected areas. This is better than taking painkillers that might be detrimental in the long run.

The massage therapy will encourage the flow of blood to different parts of the body. With a proper flow of blood in the body, it will be easy to relieve pain.

You have poor posture

It is possible to improve your posture just by going to the gym. Improving your posture is the best way to live a healthy lifestyle. If you have a desk job, then you might be having problems with your posture.

The good news is that you can improve your posture by going for a massage. The massage therapist will work on your back muscles and help you in restoring your posture.

You need to relax

Living a high-stress life is not good for your health. You need to make sure that you live a stress-free life. The only way to relax is to go for a massage once in a while.

Going for massage will help you to relax and avoid tension that comes with stressful activities. Living a stress-free life means that you will live a healthy life.…

If you like to own a pet, then there are things that you need to consider so that you get a healthy pet. It is not wise to rush out and buy the first pet you get, buying a pet involves more than just the looks.

But for first-time owners, there are simple but essential things that you should inquire from your seller before making the purchase. These necessary inquiries include the pet?s health and treatment record. However, before you start asking about the health of a pet, some people do not know how to find a pet to buy. If you are looking for your dream pet, then written here is how to go about it, and how to know if the pet is healthy.

Google

If you have been looking for a pet to buy and you have not yet found a seller, then you should try searching on the internet. Many people are not aware of how powerful the internet has become, now in a few seconds you can find information about the different pet sellers available in town.

And not only will you find this information on the web, but you will also be able to see in pictures those pets that are available for sale.

Reviews

If you feel overwhelmed by the information you find from different pet selling websites, then you need to read reviews so that you can know what the previous buyers are saying. There are pet sellers who take pride in their work and always have the best pet breeds in the market, and these people even make follow-ups to ensure you are bonding, treating, and feeding your pet as suggested. Buying a pet from a seller who loves his work is a guaranteed way to find a healthy pet.

Treatment Records

If you have found your dream pet, then the next thing that you must do is ask for the previous treatment record. The veterinary who treats these pets is supposed to keep the records of each the treatments.

If you do not ask for these records, then the chances of buying an unhealthy pet increase significantly.

Find a Veterinary

If you are not sure about the health of the pet you want to buy, then it is essential that you find a veterinary. An excellent vet will run some test and will inform you of the health status of your new pet.…

Most drug addicts are isolated from the rest of the community because they are regarded as people who are living a lifestyle that they chose. What most us do not apprehend is that; drug addiction is a disease. Once you buy the idea that drug addiction is a disease, you will be able to help people who are facing this problem. We should all fight together to have a drug free society. In fact, addiction has made many families break, young kids, to get involved in socially unaccepted activities like thuggery and prostitution. That is why there are many drug rehab treatment facilities all over the world. These facilities are working hard to hell those people that are engulfed in this drug addiction menace. You are probably reading this post because you are the victim or you want to help someone you know. Actually, the first step towards healing this problem is by self-acceptance. We just want to let you know that you are on the right track and doing the right thing. Our guide will help you to find the best drug rehab treatment facilities within your locality. Keep reading in order to make the right selection.

Funding

Most of these facilities are private and you need to pay for the services that you will be offered. After conceiving your idea to go for a rehab, you should keep in mind the type of financial support you will need. Always inquire about the cost of service in each facility before making up your mind. Actually, several programs for drug rehabilitation accept the insurance. If you have a health insurance cover, consider shortlisting those facilities that accept the insurance. This will make your healing process very simple. At such a situation, you need maximum concentration and less stress since most people are willing to leave drug but they get back due to lack of funds. So make sure you choose a facility that accepts an insurance if you have one. And if you do not have once, there are facilities that offer cheap yet quality services.

Availability of a Drug Detox

For alcohol and opiate addicts, they are required to attend any detox program available. The right facilities for this kind of people are one that offers a detox program. Actually, for those who do not know what a detox means; it is a situation when your body is suffering from withdrawal. Withdrawal symptoms are normally due to lack of any drug in your body system. In most cases, alcohol addict suffers from seizures. It is, therefore, good for you to choose a treatment facility that embraces detox programs for a better healing process.

Aftercare

You need to focus on what happens after the rehab is finished. Statistics show that quite a good number of former addicts return to their past ways due to lack of aftercare services. If you are ready to do away with drug addiction, make sure you choose a drug rehab facility that monitors its patients even after the treatment is done. You can ascertain this by getting referrals from a friend and family members. After your recovery process, you surely need an aftercare program to keep you on track. And any facility offering this is a sure bet for a permanent …